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Pe parts and tips


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I don't use glue to attach small PE parts, I use Future (etc) instead and you don't even see it most times.

I also found the Tamiya diamond file for PE to be a very handy tool to remove that last bit of attachment point, and a photoetch bender jig like micro mark sells real handy for making consistent 90 degree bends.

jb

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I've read all articles I can find and videos on the subject.I was just wondering what some of your techniques were.Dos and don'ts that sort of thing.Maybe if I posted a pic of a model without mirrors Id get more of a response.thanks anyway

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well brian, I just gave you two concrete tips there: use Future instead of glue and use some very fine diamond files to remove the excess fret metal from the part. also get some good flat nose pliers to hold pieces while you work them. be selective about what you use PE for because a lot of it seems to not be seen after all your work. if you are applying scripts to the outside of bodywork, if there is already a raised emblem, remove it before using the PE. careful that your part doesn't inadvertently launch itself across the room, maybe put them on a piece of tape if at all possible when working on the part but be aware you might ruin it when removing the tape.

none of this is frontier breaking knowledge; I would suspect all of it is covered in one or more of the articles or videos you have read or seen.

it really helps to know the exact circumstances you are dealing with like whether you are trying to use very small parts or rather large constructions, of which there are many out there in the modeling world

sorry if this does not help.

jb

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A modeler on another forum showed a plexi-glass box he built with a slanted front top,sides with holes big enough for hands to slip thru,a cutting mat interior floor and a large magnifier (Like for a full page on a book) and that was where he did all his P.E. applications. This was on 1/43 car models.

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