"Mist" coat coverage question...

[Againmikewins]

Hey there all! I've been racking my brain and discouraging myself from finishing any of the three kits due to a lack of confidence with painting. I've already stripped my first project (AMT 1964 Impala SS) and started again. Since then, I've torn down 4 older builds and stripped those down with the hopes of saving those kits. 

I understand cleaning the body properly and sanding it. I understand the primer and wet sanding process. I also understand prepping the paint and the effects of weather. I don't understand the actual process of applying color coats, sanding them properly and clear coating. 

Can anyone break this down for me?

Here are my first attempts! Is this a proper first coat? I'm using Duplicolor automotive enamel over Duplicolor primer/sealant. 

Thanks for any tips and criticism in advance! This is really bumming me out. 

[High octane]

Michael, after my primer coat is dry I usually lightly sand it with 600 or 1000 grit paper. I then wipe the body down with my tack rag and put it on my paint stand. I then warm up my can of color coat for 'bout six minutes and after wiping and shaking the can I apply a light (mist) coat of color to the body. Since it's the first coat it may not cover all of the surfaces. After a 15 minute wait I warm the can up again, then drying and shaking the can I apply another mist coat and this time it should cover the entire body. Another 15 minute wait and after warming up the can again I finally apply the third and last color coat and this time I spray a heavier "wet" coat that covers the entire body. The last coat is wet but not enough to "run." 24 hours later I use this method to apply 3 clear coats of paint. After waiting a week or two to let this lacquer paint job thoroughly dry, I then wet sand the clear coat with sanding cloths of 4,6,8, & 12,000 grits.

[unclescott58]

There is a reason I use Tamiya lacquer spay paints. With enamels I've always had a tough time getting good results. Mainly with orange peal. You pay the price for Tamiya paint. But, I save in the long run by not needing to strip off bad paint to redo it again.

Edited November 5, 2015 by unclescott58

[MGL]

I grew up in a body shop before the days of paint booths and learned to paint cold so I have better luck not warming the paint first. I usually spray a realitively heavy mist coat (still a light coat but I try to get near to full coverage). After about 3 or 4 minutes I give it another light coat, then if needed after another 5 minutes or so I give it a moderately heavy coat. Mostly I go by feel, when the overspray on my paint stand starts to flash off (when it starts getting tacky and stringy when I touch it rather than just wet), thats when I do the next coat. The longer the paint stays wet (without running) the smoother the finish will be as this alows the surface of the paint to flow. Just be aware that with laquer and enamal each coat will add solvents in effect reactivating the paint already applied. With enamals you have about a 20 minute window to apply the next coat and after that the following coat can cause the previous coat to check up or wrinkle. I am sure others have better results than me with different techniques but this is what works for me.

Edited November 5, 2015 by MGL

[Againmikewins]

Thanks for the tips! I ruined the impala (again) and it's back in the pond. 

I used Tamiya primer and was impressed with the coverage, I'll be heading to The Model Cave on Wednesday for some of their colors. 

[Againmikewins]

  On 11/5/2015 at 12:08 AM, High octane said:

Michael, after my primer coat is dry I usually lightly sand it with 600 or 1000 grit paper. I then wipe the body down with my tack rag and put it on my paint stand. I then warm up my can of color coat for 'bout six minutes and after wiping and shaking the can I apply a light (mist) coat of color to the body. Since it's the first coat it may not cover all of the surfaces. After a 15 minute wait I warm the can up again, then drying and shaking the can I apply another mist coat and this time it should cover the entire body. Another 15 minute wait and after warming up the can again I finally apply the third and last color coat and this time I spray a heavier "wet" coat that covers the entire body. The last coat is wet but not enough to "run." 24 hours later I use this method to apply 3 clear coats of paint. After waiting a week or two to let this lacquer paint job thoroughly dry, I then wet sand the clear coat with sanding cloths of 4,6,8, & 12,000 grits.

where can I find those sanding cloths? I only ever find the paper. 

[High octane]

Mike, A well stocked hobby shop should have those sanding cloths in a variety of grits, or they come in the LMG Polishing Kit as well. If not Micro Mark carries them for sure.