426-Hemi Posted January 15, 2017 Author Posted January 15, 2017 So its been a couple months since I last "visited" this model. Its sadly been sitting and waiting for work to be done to make it closer to being finished. So with that, while waiting on other parts to dry & cure on another build, this one was "out" and I thought, I'd proceed on getting more done to it! So, where to begin? WELL.... -Last thing I did to this model was get the Power Bulge hood almost done! (I had yet to add that chrome strip, that goes on the lower edge of that hood, that fills in on the grille when the hood is closed, I got that added (Have yet to get pics of this done!) But the frame? The engine? There was a little to be done to this area..... Motor was NOT in the frame, the frame needed some added paint work, and some minor details added, BEFORE the engine could go in-place!So with that, I got to painting some of the frame details....That looks GREAT! (I may yet, add some dullcoat to the cast-iron color to make it not so shiny!) We'll see.....Up-side-down sort of.... I painted all the suspension and steering parts, as well as the front stabilizer bar, and even the front torsion bars.... (I liked how that looked on another model I did it too and I think that part might become a regular practice on my models now!!!! It looks GREAT! I sat that aside, and seen that the firewall had not a lot done to it other then the parts you all seen last, some of those details needed painted in-place, as well as some of the wiring started to be put in-place as well!Got right to it! I added the wire from the blower motor to the side of the heater hose entrance. (seen that in an online pic, as well as added the wiper motor wire too! Painted the fittings on the brake lines off the Master Cylinder and now, I have to see what else needs added as I have also drilled a bunch of holes in that electrical connection right under the wiper motor!Stay tuned, more to follow after these short messages for our sponsors!
426-Hemi Posted January 15, 2017 Author Posted January 15, 2017 So I sat the Firewall aside, to then check on the paint work done to the suspension and all. ALL dry! SO then, off to checking the engine to see if it needed anything "more" added BEFORE it went into place in the frame! I had to drill the holes in the power Steering pump to add that pipe work and hoses, as well as re-adjust the mounting as it was slightly to far "forward" and would not allow the radiator to fit properly!!!! I got that addressed, and taken care of, and right to mounting the engine in-place between the frame rails where it belongs!!!!!That looks really good sitting in-place to STAY!Other side.... Its sure coming together! -A LOT of wire details hanging everywhere it seems! LOL Just like a real one!PERFECT front view to show the area needed for the Radiator, Core Support to "fit"!All seems GREAT from underneath too! I'm so glad this fits in-place so well. could have been a lot of work! Remember, this kit? Was to have a 426 Hemi in it, OR a 440 Magnum in it! My Dad's car, had a little ole LA 318 in it! So I used one of my own resin castings to make this engine happen and make the car look good with all the details of the wire I've added! NOT as much going on as some of my normal builds, but enough!!!! I had sit this all aside to dry and cure so that the engine was in-place to stay, and worked on some other areas of this model, so that things could get done to it and be ready to put in-place when I need them! BUT you'll see that work in a bit! Once that work was done and needed to dry (paint work) I went right back to fitting the engine with a drive shaft! I took the stock one, cut it in half, and then chucked it up in the Unimat lathe, to turn the "barrel" down to fit inside of a Aluminum tube, to have some "true round" drive shaft. The real ones, had a slight joint for the suspension to work and I turned the drive shaft to reflect this! One end, has the U-Joint, right to the drive shaft barrel, and the other end has a smaller barrel to look like that slip-joint in front of the U-Joint before it connects to the rear differential! This is what that looks like unpainted:It WILL be painted, in-place! The U-Joints are NOT glued on either end! That will allow me to "spin" it in-place while painting it. I once done being painted will glue BOTH ends!Now, to show what I was working on, just prior to adding the engine and the drive shaft.... I was kinda being "chicken" on whats to come.... REALLY I was afraid I'd ruin it, but As you'll all see, I think I done well! Adding the "Black Shadowing" to the grille! There sure is A LOT going on in just the details on that part, OMG.... Yeah it was sort of hairy to do.... BUT, I think it turned out well, you guys tell me what ya think:Thats it with my camera's flash.....Thats it without my camera's flash....What you all think? Yeah it was hairy part to do, but I think its done well..... Took a couple hours to get exactly what you see!Thats it for now on this one! More to come as things happen and are done! As always comments welcome, ENJOY!
72 Charger Posted January 15, 2017 Posted January 15, 2017 Looking great John . Grill looks very realistic
Dodge Driver Posted January 15, 2017 Posted January 15, 2017 That's a fine looking grille, John! Would you tell us your technique? Specifically, what type of black do you use?I always seem to get mediocre results when I blacken a grille. My efforts end up too heavy or too light when I'm done.
426-Hemi Posted January 17, 2017 Author Posted January 17, 2017 Looking great John . Grill looks very realisticThanks Dave! Yeah as I mentioned I thought that part of this build was thee hairiest part so far, (I'm ALWAYS second guessing myself on the grille shadowing), so.... Thought I'd make light of it on this build. as I am that way on EVERY build I do! -Much appreciated!
426-Hemi Posted January 17, 2017 Author Posted January 17, 2017 That's a fine looking grille, John! Would you tell us your technique? Specifically, what type of black do you use?I always seem to get mediocre results when I blacken a grille. My efforts end up too heavy or too light when I'm done.Thanks Frank! Much appreciated! Ande sure, I don't mind, it was actually pretty dang simple really. even tho I second guess that task on all my builds, I've done it the same way so far on every single build I had to add the grille shadowing to them! Good ole Testors, flat black..... OK? Half empty bottle 1/4 ounce, and thinned with Mineral Spirits, till its not exactly "spray-able" but really thin.... BUT still has a strong black pigment in it? Make sense? Not watery, by any means but it can literally "drip" off a brush dipped into it... Then with a laden really fine paint brush lightly added till all that show is blacked out..... allowed to dry, GOOD (over-night I find it to be best) then do it AGAIN, a second coat of that thinned out Testors flat black......... again, allowed to dry overnight, then the next day, check for ANY light spots, add if needed, if fully covered in flat black, then with Mineral Spirits take a Q-tip, lightly dampen it with water to make any stray fibers lay flat or go into the "bulb of cotton, and then lightly dip into the Mineral Spirits, and tamp that the Q-Tip into a paper towel to remove "extra" so its NOT "soaked" but damp, and lightly wipe, VERY little pressure going across the grille in any direction and keep doing this till all the "edges" of the raised edges reveal that Chrome below.... You WILL need to use SEVERAL Q-tips to make this happen BOTH ends of them!
Dodge Driver Posted January 17, 2017 Posted January 17, 2017 Thanks Frank! Much appreciated! Ande sure, I don't mind, it was actually pretty dang simple really. even tho I second guess that task on all my builds, I've done it the same way so far on every single build I had to add the grille shadowing to them! Good ole Testors, flat black..... OK? Half empty bottle 1/4 ounce, and thinned with Mineral Spirits, till its not exactly "spray-able" but really thin.... BUT still has a strong black pigment in it? Make sense? Not watery, by any means but it can literally "drip" off a brush dipped into it... Then with a laden really fine paint brush lightly added till all that show is blacked out..... allowed to dry, GOOD (over-night I find it to be best) then do it AGAIN, a second coat of that thinned out Testors flat black......... again, allowed to dry overnight, then the next day, check for ANY light spots, add if needed, if fully covered in flat black, then with Mineral Spirits take a Q-tip, lightly dampen it with water to make any stray fibers lay flat or go into the "bulb of cotton, and then lightly dip into the Mineral Spirits, and tamp that the Q-Tip into a paper towel to remove "extra" so its NOT "soaked" but damp, and lightly wipe, VERY little pressure going across the grille in any direction and keep doing this till all the "edges" of the raised edges reveal that Chrome below.... You WILL need to use SEVERAL Q-tips to make this happen BOTH ends of them! Much appreciated, John! That helps a great deal. I have several B-body Mopars that will benefit from using your method
426-Hemi Posted January 17, 2017 Author Posted January 17, 2017 Ya very welcome Frank! That same technique would work really on ANY chrome grille! (DO NOT do that same trick tho on Alclad Chrome), it will remove that chrome as well as the black "shadowing" too! Not sure how Alclad might react to using Acrylic Flat Black tho. it might work, I haven't tried it yet!
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now