frame cutting ??

[oldr-n-drt]

I have a metal truck frame I have cut into,what is the best glue for strength to glue it back together?i will brass chanell to strengthen it.  thanks oldr-n-drt

[Ace-Garageguy]

A slow-setting epoxy is your best bet.

[tedd60]

Although I have not tried it ... yet ... it's my understanding that die cast (white metal, pot metal, zamask ... whichever) can be soldered.  It takes the correct flux, rod, a means to keep the temps down, and, by my eye, a LOT of practice.  http://muggyweld.com/crack-repair-pot-metal-zinc-die-cast  & https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sh5W0xbZ9es

I've got a 1/18 1950 something Buick convertible I keep looking at wondering if I can graft the hardtop from a 1954 Chevy two door onto it.  Epoxy would work just fine ... but it did cause me to search to see if I could solder it on.

 

 

[Ace-Garageguy]

Although I have not tried it ... yet ... it's my understanding that die cast (white metal, pot metal, zamask ... whichever) can be soldered.  It takes the correct flux, rod, a means to keep the temps down, and, by my eye, a LOT of practice.  http://muggyweld.com/crack-repair-pot-metal-zinc-die-cast  & https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sh5W0xbZ9es

I've tried several of the solders for pot-metal over the years, and though they sometimes work well, they sometimes don't. I've experimented with them specifically to try to save cast pot-metal real-car parts that were other wise unavailable.The term "pot-metal" is applied to the material because it can be whatever happens to be in the pot. Sometimes the "special" solder will flow and stick beautifully, sometimes not.

Metallic composition varies wildly from manufacturer to manufacturer, especially with die-cast models, and very often, the same manufacturer will make models out of different materials. I've also encountered castings that were so porous they'd pop and spit when even mildly heated, or simply crumble.

It can be an expensive and disheartening experience to buy the equipment and special solder and then to have the part you're working on destroyed entirely, even if you use exactly the same technique that you've used successfully on other parts.

Slow-curing epoxy is almost foolproof, and doesn't present the risk of having the part melt or crumble.

Just remember that with epoxies, in general, the slower the product cures, the stronger it will be. 30-minute epoxy makes much stronger bonds than 5-minute stuff.