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About Ace-Garageguy

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    Bill Engwer

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  1. "Life, Liberty, and the Pursuit of Happiness" are rights that conflict with the desires of power-mongers everywhere.
  2. Wife-units should be trained early on that they are not the center of the universe, nor are they the unquestioned rulers-of-the-roost.
  3. Thanks. Box got full when I wasn't looking. Fixed it.
  4. It doesn't work on everything PP or PE, again depending on the specific compound, but it can be a real bacon-saver these days when insurance companies are cutting every last nickel out of what they'll pay to repair older vehicles. We're often forced to use LKQ parts (like kind and quality...which is newspeak for "junkyard"), many of which are non-urethane, and most of which need some repairs to be presentable. It's a handy product to know about. https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/b40065456/ PS EDIT: If you like chemisery, this is an interesting rabbit-hole to go down... https://www.mdi.org/blog/post/what-is-the-difference-between-polyethylene-and-polypropylene/#:~:text=Polyethylene's monomer unit is ethylene,by polymerizing propylene monomer units.
  5. To whom it may concern: just because a vehicle came with a feedback carb and ECM-controlled spark timing, it doesn't have to stay that way. Some jurisdictions, like any I'd ever inhabit, allow retrofitting non-compliant induction, exhaust, and ignition systems after a vehicle reaches a certain age. Both the EFI and ignition ECM in my '89 GMC truck failed. I replaced them with a 60-year-old Rochester 2GC and a stand-alone HEI distributor that uses advance weights and springs. It runs just fine, thanks...but anybody trying to work on it using a Haynes manual will be SOL.
  6. The adhesion promoters I was referring to are this sort of thing from 3M, designed for TPO-type plastics. 3M™ Polyolefin Adhesion Promoter is a specially formulated adhesion promoter for use when repairing low surface energy plastics such as thermopolyolefin (TPO). Use the adhesion promoter with 3M brand adhesives. 3M™ Polyolefin Adhesion Promoter is designed specifically for polyolefin and ethylene propylene plastic identified by the marks PP, EP, TPO or EPDM on the back of the part. NOTE: These adhesion promoters will work differently on specific PE and PP blends, and may not do much at all on some...like the garden-variety yellow bondo spreaders. They are a totally different product than what's marketed for urethane-based plastics. TPO-type plastics are defined as: TPO compounds are resin blends of polypropylene (PP) and un-crosslinked EPDM rubber and polyethylene. They are characterised by high impact resistance, low density and good chemical resistance. They are used in applications where there is a requirement for increased toughness and durability over the conventional PP copolymers, such as automotive bumpers and dashboards. The properties are restricted to the high end of the hardness scale, typically >80 Shore A and with limited elastomeric properties.
  7. Absolutely gorgeous, and certainly worth the wait. You'll never have reason to doubt your skills in the future.
  8. "In-A-Gadda-Da-Vida” took root in the American consciousness on its release in 1968 and went on to enjoy an afterlife that spanned rock, disco and hip-hop.
  9. I'm leapin', Boss. I'm leapin'.
  10. True, but there are adhesion promoters and special adhesives made for use in the autobody industry that will do an OK job on many "difficult to bond" plastics. However, they're not cheap, and rarely come in modeler-friendly packaging. In general, epoxy does stick reasonably well to everything but PP and PE and their derivatives, but the 5-minute stuff is a complete waste of time. The rule-of-thumb is that the longer an epoxy takes to reach "full cure", the stronger the bond will be. Roughing the surfaces to be bonded is also very necessary to get decent bonds with non-solvent gloos.
  11. Movies showing little 90-pound females stomping 250-pound bikers don't strike me as being very realistic somehow.
  12. Cab companies and car thieves everywhere rejoice.
  13. When you care enough to use the very best...
  14. Good info, definitely of potential use to modelers. I was talking about 1:1 though, where patterns were traditionally carved from wood, and from which the production sand-molds were produced. There are still "art" foundries that can make sand molds from wooden or polyester or wax patterns, and there are still a few industrial foundries capable of doing an entire project, but nothing like the numbers back in the post-war era when Hilborn and Halibrand and Edelbrock et al were getting started.
  15. Ah yes...but the advance curve wasn't computer-controlled. The early HEI distributors (through '80 or so) still had flyweight-and-springs advance-plates and vacuum-cans just like point-types. 1981 saw the switch to Electronic Spark Timing (EST) controlled by the first generation of GM ECMs, capable of responding to a variety of input conditions from engine sensors. No disagreement about HEI being a great leap forward in ignition tech, however. My older vehicles that retain OEM distributors always get retrofitted with HEI-type guts. The system has proven to be simple and robust and very reliable over the years. Too bad that's not the case with a lot of electronic wizardry.
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