peteski

Usually vehicles of that time with a unusual shape of the body had their doors swing open to the outside of the body. Your first idea should work. As I see it, you have to move the hinge point (the tubing) closer to the door opening's edge. The loops might also have to be larger (to increase the swing diameter. You will also likely have to thin the door's inner surface at the hinged edge. The fact that this is a suicide hinging does not matter. Since the sculpted body has the same shape at the front of the door, you would have the same problem with front-hinged door.

To be honest, I would feel weird about building a model where certain parts will be assembled under stress. I would be worried that after some time problems (such as cracks) might develop. When customizing 1:1 vehicles, the body's sheet metal can be shaped (bent, etc.) so any stress is minimized, but with plastic the stress will remain forever. Maybe that's why I don't do any serious body customizing on my models.

Ah, ok, so that's the clamping action. Got it!

I guess I have hard time seeing a "clamp" (at least going by what the word "clamp" means to me). Are those metal staples considered clamps?

To me this is looks like careless spelling mistake. It probably means "test" as in "needs test drive; something wrong". Maybe the person who wrote it did not know how to spell "test"?

Since they posted fine in this thread, they are now uploaded to the forum (in your attachments). Just go to the thread you want to reply in, then start your reply and when you want to add the images, just copy/paste the direct links to the 2 photos here: https://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/uploads/monthly_2024_12/20241205_130945.thumb.jpg.f9b1951dd4766ede7a1cb4eed12dd99b.jpg https://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/uploads/monthly_2024_12/20241205_130932.thumb.jpg.16532f67674c793dd3e999e5a5fc36ef.jpg As you paste those links, they will automatically expand to photos.

And so was One Foot in the Grave, Are You Being Served, and Vicar of Dibley. Then there is Monty Python, but some people find that one too silly or weird. Fawlty Towers was great too.

Actually just the snow cover or rain on a parked car are not a major problem. It is the salt on the roads in the winter if the car is driven that causes issues. Another big problem is if the uncovered car sits in the open and all the dead falling leaves and pine needles settle into all the low areas on the car and are left on it. When they get wet from rain or snow, they retain the moisture which starts to slowly rot the body. Don't ask me how I know (and now know better).

Whether it is or not is to me less important than the fact that the color-shifting flakes seem way out of scale (too large) for 1:12 or small scale cars. It might be ok for 1:8 scale, but it would still look like the glittery finish used on bass-boats.

The "hotness" of the paint has nothing to to with amount of solvent present in it. It is the chemical composition of the solvent itself. Solvents can be substances like naphtha, alcohols, acetone, and many others. They are usually blended using multiple ingredients, and depending on the blend, some are "hotter" than others.

Model railroad manufacturers also display their models at those toy fairs, and we all know how expensive that hobby is, and how elaborate adult-built model train layouts can get. Also remember the warnings usually present on model packaging about the item not recommended to kids under 14 (or whatever that age is nowadays), and also about difficulty level (again that goes back to the age thing). Do teenagers over 14 play with toys? Do 59 year old people play with toys? I guess they can. I guess it all goes back to definitions of toys and scale models. I guess a scale model can be a toy just as some toys can be a scale models.

Back when they were still around, American SATCO sold a wide range of rubber tires which were used by various Japanese kit manufacturers. They had Pirellis, but none in scale 14" size. Here is a listing of their tires. They show up on eBay from time to time.

I would be careful with that. Naphtha will dissolve Testors enamels and other not-fully-cured enamels. It could affect some lacquers (again, if lacquers are not fully dried). Also if left on any paint surface for longer time, it might affect (dull) them. After all it Naphaha is an organic solvent used as thinner, but a quick light touch wipe should not hurt the lacquer's surface.

Mike, since you mentioned that you have been using the Scotch blue painter's tape problem-free for years, what has changed to cause the problem? Is the blue tape different somehow? Are you using different type of paints/primer? Are you spraying the paint different way than in the past? Are you applying the tape to the painted surface before it is fully dry? That would likely cause the tape adhesive to soften and leave adhesive residue. I like Tamiya masking tape (or Washi tape) but I have used Scotch brand blue tape in the past without problems.

I'm not into hot rods so I was unaware of those wheels in the '36 Ford kit. To me these wheels look like ones used in VW Beetles or early Porsches (which were somewhat related to Beetles). I did not realize that '36 Fords used similar bolt pattern/wheel design.