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About peteski

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    MCM Ohana

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  • Scale I Build

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    New England, USA
  • Full Name
    Peter W.

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  1. I doubt it - upon a sale the seller pays all sorts of fees. It would not make sense to do what you suggest, because they would be losing money. And auctions run hot and cold all the time - you really need at least 2 very committed bidders to bid the item up to high amounts. The last listing I linked to appears to have been "buy it now" listing as there were no bids on it - just a sale.
  2. The plastic runners (as you call them "sprue") is excellent raw material for making all sorts of things. You could chuck a piece of the plastic runner in a Dremel, and (on slow speed) using a file, shape it to resemble a breather. If the diameter is too large, just file it down until it looks right. You are sort of using the Dremel and file like a poor-man's lathe. I've made quite a few round-shaped parts that way.
  3. I mentioned that when I plan on removing all the "chrome"and varnish from parts, I do that before gluing them together. If I understand you correctly, you took the "chromed" parts, removed the plating from the gluing areas, them glued them together.Next, you try to remove the all the remaining "chrome" and varnish. It is possible that the combination of glue and "chrome" removing chemicals made the parts brittle.
  4. Tools designed for graphic design shows you the exact dimensions of any graphics and allow you to resize them accurately. I use a "real" Windows PC and Corel Draw suite of programs. I have used Corel for decal artwork and other tasks fo over 2 decades. I also know that Inkscape and GIMP are freeware applications similar in capabilities to Corel. I have no experience with iPad, but If you search the app store for GIMP, there are couple of downloads available. Try it out. GIMP is a powerful graphic (bitmap) editor, so it will take you some time to get used to it. It could be overwhelm
  5. That is an interesting theory. I have experienced thin Polystyrene strips getting brittle and crack into small segments as I tried to glue them using Testors liquid cement (the thin stuff, mostly made of Methyl Ethyl Ketone, or MEK). But the same strip does not break up when using Methylene Chloride based liquid cement. The strips are not old (freshly purchased Evergreen brand strips). Maybe the chemical used in Heller glue did make the wheels brittle. That to me would make more sense than Chlorine or Sodium Hydroxide making the Polystyrene brittle. I didn't realize that you s
  6. Thanks for the info Jouko. I forgot that you live in Finland and I'm in USA. But your description and pictures seem to show that those products contain either Chlorine (bleach) or natriumhydroksidia (Sodium Hydroxide) for clogged drains and oven cleaning. I agree that those are considered safe to use on Polystyrene. You don't keep any of the empty "parts trees" or "parts frames"? You throw them away, and put the parts in those boxes?
  7. I've been thinking about this since you posted this in another thread. I wonder if your 91% stuff is really 91%? Is it the standard rubbing alcohol you get from a pharmacy or supermarket shelf? I wonder if because of all the shenanigans related to COVID-19 the alcohol was intentionally diluted, and it is more like 50% or 70% and packaged in 91% bottle? As I mentioned in the other thread, try getting the IPA 99% stuff from a hardware store.
  8. The "goo" is likely the paint's binder -- the stuff that dries as a film holding the pigment (color) together. So even if the paint is usable, it might not be as good as new. First check for pressure. You can tell by squeezing the can and see if the metal gives in easily. If there is no (or little) pressure in the can, shake it really well (to mix whatever is still in the can), then make hole in the can. I would lay the can flat and make a small hole at the top of the side wall, close to the bottom end. That way if there is any residual pressure, it will be released without squirting
  9. Thanks. After reading that the new 2-piece tires are made from soft rubbery material (not the hard slipper plastic like in the old days) I suspected that they would be usable. While not optimal (we are "spoiled" by 1-piece tires in most new kits), they do look quite usable (and the lettering looks good too).
  10. The vacuum metalizing (using aluminum) has been used to represent "chrome" on plastic models for many decades. That "chrome" is not very durable, but it is not really required for models that don't get handles a lot, or otherwise abused (usually just displayed). The vacuum metalizing process is simple, thus fairly inexpensive. Also, since the metal layer is extremely thin, it is easily removed on the gluing surfaces, or stripped chemically if needed. But some companies (Trumpeter is one of them, and now it sounds like Salvinos too), seem to use electroplating process which results in a
  11. Thanks Bill, that is excellent work (and without any fancy vacuforming)!
  12. That restoration looks great! What did you use to re-chrome the bumpers? Also, how did you make the headlight covers? The other question is: are those the original scripts and badges, or you found replacements?
  13. Sorry to hear about the problem. It is annoying to get a good start on a build (of an older kit) to have something drastically go wrong. I'm curious as to what you used to strip the metal coat and the clear lacquer. Am also curious how brittle are the runners on the chrome parts tree (without them being exposed to the stripping solution)? Since those are not needed, can you test how easily they break/crack?
  14. That might be difficult to get jut now. But Molotow, Spaz Stick, Alclad II Chrome, or similar finish might do it justice.
  15. I would live to see them take one of the Flat Earthers up into orbit to show them that the Earth is a sphere (not a flat disk). I would love to see what excuse they would come up with that what they see with their own eyes is just an illusion. Kind of reminds me of another group of people (but that is a taboo subject here).
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