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    Peter W.

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  1. It is a nice color, but to me the metal flakes in that paint look out of scale, unless you are specifically going for that metal-flake effect. Looks like glitter. And I realize that it doesn't look so obvious when viewed directly, but it really pops out in photos. I take the contest photos for my model club and I often see this exaggerated size metal flake. When I look at the model I photograph it looks ok, but then when I look at the photo it looks like something you would see on a bass boat or a dune buggy. I think the vendors who specifically mix automotive pains for the model market use smaller metallic particles to make the paint look more in-scale. Of course the vendors who just mix paints to be used on 1:1 cars don't know to do that. But then the line of Testors One Coat Lacquers also had that problem. Whoever came up with their paint formulas did not consider the flake size to be a factor.
  2. As I see it it is a fad done for looks. It often goes alone with narrower low-profile tires stretched unrealistically onto wide rims. It's a "bad boy" image. It wrecks the tire and ride qualities. The handling is likely not very good either. I don't shake my fists or yell at those - just roll my eyes. But whatever . . . if it makes those guys think they are cool, so be it.
  3. DO you know the actual diameter of the 1:1 wires? Once you know that just divide it by either 24 or 25 and you will have the scale wire diameter. Then find the wire that close enough. There is a range of "scale" ignition wires available out there. One will be close to what you need.
  4. I used it couple of times (on non-model items). Smells like CA glue, and when hit with the UV light it sets very fast (like if it was hit with standard CA accelerator). When I was looking for it (on recommendation from a friend), none of the hardware stores seem to carry it. I ended up buying it on eBay. But I have seen it recently in Lowe's in the adhesives section (in USA).
  5. Greg, this is actually UV curable CA glue, so it should stick to those surfaces as well as any standard CA glue.
  6. I do my own etching (both parts and electronic circuit boards). You still have to first design the parts (produce the artwork) to be accurate and look good.
  7. That's good. For me it is "why tempt faith?" After I spend 3 months building a model I don't want the glue joints start oozing after few years. Accelerators are not very expensive and a bottle last for a very long time.
  8. Norm is an awesome guy! One of the nicest people I have ever dealt with. Years back he did offer full detail engine kits for Ferrrari 250s. Awesome mutimedia kits (he included fuel lines an ignition wire. I was bummed out when he stopped offering them, but I can see why as those looked to be very time-intensive to produce. He also sold excellent sports cars steering wheels. Real wood rim and photoetched center. Perfect for Ferraris. Too bad those are no longer offered, but again, I can see how they would have been difficult to make. Then there are the photoetched "wizard Os" and Ferrari scripts. Also not listed in the current catalog. As for shipping, have you tried to send anything through the Post Office lately? If you haven't check the limited choices of services and prices. $12 to me is totally reasonable! Some of you guys still live in the '80s, or use amazon prime! Not a fair comparison!
  9. I would highly discourage anybody from using bakign soda ad CA accelerator. I have seen too many issues (like it oozing out of the joint in some humid climates). Not worth it on your precious model. If using CA glue, use accelerators specifically made for setting CA glue. There are multiple brands on the market. If you need to use a filler with CA glue, use plastic shavings, talcum powder, microbaloons, or some similar inert powder. I prefer BSI brand of CA glue and accelerator.
  10. Yes, those are GM and Bars Leaks turds are the same stuff. GM had them repackaged in a GM-branded blister packs. I have both versions (since I own a 1985 Eldorado). Sctually the slang name was "dog turds". They are a bit large for lizard droppings, unless you mean Komodo Dragon.
  11. Cool! I saw them in the photo of your car so I included them on the decal.
  12. Looks great Pat! Are you going to use the LEVI'S and Hurst decals too?
  13. You think that's odd? The early '80s Caddy Eldorados with the HT4100 engines had lots of problems with coolant leaks through head gasket and porous aluminum block. Solution? GM officially sold "coolant supplement tablets". They were made from ground up ginger root and walnut shells. Might have been some Turmeric in them too. They were compressed into what the Caddy owners called "turds". They were brown things that looked the part. I'm not making it up. As I recall, ginger root fibers expand when they dry, so when they lodged themselves into the voids, they dried up on the outside, expanding and sealing the leak. Kind of like a Dutch boy sticking a finger in a dyke leak.
  14. Funny that the car had integrated bumper in the early '70s, then the 5MPH bumpers were mandated, so "steel rams" were tacked onto pretty much all cars, and yet contemporary calls all have integrated bumpers. Like the adage goes, what's old is new again.
  15. Problem to me with Testors silver (which has been available for probably 50 years) is that it never seems to fully dry. Plus it is nowhere as "chromey" as the kit's "chromed" parts, or even BMF. It is satisfactory to touch up small flaws in kit's "chrome", but I would not use it to paint a while bumper. But we all have different standards.
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