peteski

Interesting and unusual creation. I have been attending car shows in Massachusetts and New Hampshire for years and I never ran into this one.

WOW!

I did a quick search, and here's one of the threads about Alsa Chrome system. To me the $140 price doesn't seem all that outrageous considering how much a rattle can of Revell Chrome sells, and knowing that Alsa will be more durable without any extra clear coats. Like Steve mentioned in that thread, just sending the kit's parts to be "chromed" (when that service was still available) could cost $80. $140 doesn't seem that outrageous, considering that you will be able to do multiple kits.

That's all well and good, but as you said, more often then not those Darwin Award Recipients also take some some innocent lives along with theirs.Or better yet, they survive the crash while others perish. It is just not cool!

If you are using a "real" computer (not a phone or tablet) then I can offer a hint. When I post URL links I first click on the chain link symbols on the top pf the message compose window. That opens up a dialog box asking to enter the URL. I past the link into there (usually leaving the "text" field blank), and click "Insert into post" button. I don't just past the URL link directly into the compose window. Like this https://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/191128-can’t-paste-links/#comment-2869491 EDIT: I wonder if you are asking why when you paste the URL to another thread in this forum into the compose window, it doesn't automatically expand into a small image of the thread? If that is the question then I don't know why it would not do that automatically.

If you search the forum (not using the native search engine) for Alsa chrome, you will see several discussion. Some here use it and are quite happy with it.

While not the greatest option nowadays, of possible take the train.

That sounds like the cheap plastic was not polystyrene (or ABS). While I'm not familiar with Revell cement, I suspect ti is a typical solvent-based cement. If it is polystyrene (or ABS, which is a variant of polystyrene) should all be gluable using hobby glues for styrene, and even CA glue.

Most quick-set epoxies while they harden clear (or slightly amber in color), will become darker yellow with age (after several years). But if you use epoxy in a way that it is not visible outside the model, that is not a problem.

I did not mention polypropylene as I have never seen it available in thin clear sheets. It is usually used to for making Tupperware or similar food containers, and it is usually not crystal clear. As you said, adhesives do not stick well to it. Probably best to use something else.

No, that's fine Bill. Thank you. Good to know that acetate is still alive and well, and available, but I just haven't seen any acetate clear sheets for sale at any hobby shops I have been using in the last 30 years. And while I agree that the materials are usually labeled correctly by the manufacturers, I still believe that majority of modelers actually use different materials, while generically calling them "acetate". At least in my experience.

Acetate? Kind of like calling all water-based paints "acrylics" is a misnomer, acetate is inaccurate. I don't think anybody has actually used clear acetate for model windows for many decades. I don't even know where one would get a sheet of real acetate. Sorry, had to get this off my chest. Clear plastic we use for models is usually polystyrene, PET, PETG (like Vivak), acrylic, polycarbonate, polyester, or vinyl. For glue you can use canopy cement, epoxy, odorless CA glue (it doesn't fog the plastic). I often use standard CA glue with BSI brand accelerator. The glue sets before it has a chance to fog, and that accelerator brand does no harm plastic in general.

Milo, when you are just a straight-out-of-the box kit builder, you can get by with minimal amount of tools. But when you start getting into more advanced modeling (like you are starting here), you really need to get yourself some more tools and scratchbuilding supplies. Otherwise, you will be frustrated and your kitbashing and part swapping will not be done very well. Unfortunately, unlike Legos, plastic model kits are not designed for easily swapping parts between them. Usually there are some minor or major modifications required. It also takes some experience to be able to look at the parts to be swapped and figure out how to get everything to mate properly.

They don't get fired because that industry is short-staffed to start, and can't find anybody to take the job. I also heard that the ATC equipment they use is really ancient. I wonder how long it will take for AI to replace human ATCs, and how well that will work? Scary!

Of course, plenty of practice, and lots of compatibility testing is very important, but knowing the basics about paint chemistry doesn't hurt either.

The main difference between enamel and lacquer paints is that while both dry by solvent evaporation, after that, enamels continue to cure/harden for longer time period, but lacquers, once the solvent is evaporated are fully dry. The binder (the resin which holds the pigment and which also adheres to the painted substrate) chemically changes during the hardening process (usually caused by reaction with oxygen). Once cured, enamel cannot be redissolved using its own paint thinner or other solvents. Cured enamel will soften or become gelatinous when solvents are applied, but it will never liquefy. Lacquers on the other hand can be redissolved from their dried state, fully mixing into their solvent. That is why when you have partially dried bottle of lacquer, you can add its thinner to get it back into usable state. But if a bottle of enamel gets past a certain point in the drying/hardening state, no amount of thinner will get it into usable state. It will just be a curdled chunky mess. As for the taboo words like acrylic, polyurethane, nitrocellulose, and others, those are simply describing the paint's binder. It is the paint's "body" which holds the pigment, and adheres to the painted surface. Usually those are some types of resin. This is all mentioned in the links I posted earlier. It also irks me that modelers took to describing all of the low-odor paints which are either water-based and are usually enamels as "acrylics". While it is true that most do use type of acrylic resin as binder, acrylic is also often used in other types of enamels or lacquers. That is why when I talk about those types of paint, I usually call them "water-based acrylics". The 2-part paints are yet another variant of paint. While they contain solvent (since they are liquid), after the solvent evaporates, they continue to cure (harden) by a chemical reaction similar to a 2-part epoxy adhesive. But they are not really enamels either. I'm no paint chemist - just a model builder. But with the advent of internet I was able to gain knowledge about the chemicals we use in our hobbies. This helps me to be a better modeler.

Here you go. Lots of info about lacquers (including nitrocellulose). https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lacquer Basically "lacquer" is a colloquial name used on this side of the pond for for coatings (paints) which are not enamels. Hey, there is info on what enamels are too: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Enamel_paint As you can see, both lacquer and enamel originally meant something totally different than just paints. Since we are on educational kick, it is also good to understand basics about what paint is generically. Nitrocellulose is just one or many possible binders used in lacquers. Seems that it has become a colloquial name for describing lacquer paints in general in Europe. Good reading if one wants to educate themselves about to be a better modeler about what paint is. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paint Both "lacquer" and "enamel" have become generic terms to describe a broad range of paint coatings. There are multiple formulas for both lacquer and enamel paints. They use a range of binders and solvents. Complicated isn't it? That is why it is beneficial to at least have basic understanding of what paints are and how they work. I'm no chemist, but I read quite a bit about paints to be a better modeler.

Yes, nickel plating has a warmer (slightly orangish) tone than the "cold" chrome mirror-like shine.

Yes, toothbrushes are good for tasks like that. Soft enough not to cause damage, and stiff enough to pick the softened paint out.

I guess the question is exactly what degree of weathering/patine is desired? For example is it a brass radiator which has a clean and dull (not polished) surface, or is heavy patina (discoloration) needed?

Exactly, as the tinted Futrue runs off, so will the tint intensity. You might have to dip multiple times, and even then the tinting will be very weak. But as I mentioned earlier, you can try that technique, and if it doesn't work, just remove the Future and go to "plan B".

Epoxy (like the 5-minute type) will not affect either the paint or decal. When you do that the weakest bond will be the decal to the painted hood surface. So it will not be as strong as if you glued the scoops directly to the hood's plastic surface. If you accidentally firmly bump the scoop, in might come off, taking some of the decal with it.

Actually you will have to add quite a bit of food coloring to make the tinting visible. Worth a try since Future can be removed easily, but I suspect that as excess Future runs off or pools on the surface, the tinting will be streaky and uneven.

I sure hope you meant DOT3 brake fluid, not brake clean!! Brake clean will instantly attack and ruin polystyrene.

Just to bring up another experience ,I visit the forum regularly throughout most of the day (from around 8am to midnight), and have not experienced any hangs here. My browser is Seamonkey.