peteski

Unfortunately the Spare Time Shop closed few years ago. Paul Skopecki's shop was a fun place to shop. It was bulging with all sorts of kits from the floor to the ceiling. It was a bit cramped, but that also gave it that old-school hobby shop vibe. I used to visit it several times a year. When our club made the annual trek to the NNL East, we always stopped by it when going back home. Paul also gave club members a good discount. Hobby Emporium is larger than the Spare Spare Time Shop, it is brighter and feels more open. They also have several people on the staff, and they are pretty knowledgeable. They have really large range of paints from various manufacturers and then also have full selection of model RR items (in N and H0). Spare Time Shop had a very small model RR section with mostly old items. The prices are on the high side, but if you can prove you are an active model club member, they will give you a discount on most kits.

Ok, here we go: Quoting https://www.wd40.com/products/ez-reach/ WD-40 Multi-Use Product protects metal from rust and corrosion, penetrates stuck parts, displaces moisture and lubricates almost anything. I'm not suggesting to fill your engine crankcase with WD40. It is not that type of lubricant. The way it protects metal is by leaving thin oily film on the bare metal parts, which act as a barrier to water and oxygen (which cause corrosion). Because the lubricant in it is dissolved in its low viscosity solvent it can penetrate stuck parts to lubricate them. To prove it is a lubricant spray some WD40 into a small container (like a bottle cap, and let it sit for few days. After the solvent evaporates you will see a viscous honey-colored oily liquid. That is the lubricant. There isn't much, but it is there. Also nothing is mentioned about using it as a cleaner, but if someone enterprising person wants to, they are more than welcome to do that. Hey, if Coca-Cola can be used as a rust remover, why not use WD40 as a cleaner.

It would take a long time to mention all my favorite food items discontinued over the years. I often kept parts of their packaging just to remind me how miss them. As you mentioned, many seemed like they were good sellers, Then of course are the mega-mergers causing the combined company to drop some products. Not happy about it. My little world of pleasures is getting smaller and smaller.

What are you planning on using it for? Are you sure it will be safe for the pressures you are planning for it? Exploding metal tanks are not fun to be around of.

Tool? It is a lubricant. It has hundreds of uses, but I'm not sure if I call lubricants "tools".

Maybe I'm not clear about this. When a human picks up the scammers call and starts a live conversation, that tells them that there is someone willing to listen to their spiel. You phone number is tagged as a willing victim (even if you just yell at them). I understand that most people (you included) have some sort of automatic answering machine which will let the caller leave a message. But scammers never leave a message, because there is nothing for them to gain without being able to talk live. That's the point. When the call gets picked up by the answering machine, it is not really useful to scammers. A legitimate call will leave you a message.

Yes and no. In my sailing ship building experience I learned out that ships had two kinds of rigging: Standing rigging, and running rigging. Standing rigging (lines which are stationary holding up the masts, etc.) are covered with tar and black). Running rigging is the rigging which was used to set up the sails and other such functions. That rigging had to remain flexible and was natural rope color (tan). The ropes molded on those sails are part of the running rigging, so shroud not be black, although the color they are now looks ok to me. As a teenager I built that ship along with several others in the same series although my models were by Airfix, packaged in clear blister packs. The parts breakdown was similar, but they seemed to be smaller scale.

I have a reputation! And from a newbie member no less. Awesome! I love it!

To me "dry spray" means the paint was too thick, not enough thinner, so it would dry on the way to the model, creating those webs and wouldn't level out when it hit the surface.

Roughly about half way between Boston and Concord, in Tyngsborough, MA is an excellent hobby shop: Hobby Emporium. They have very large selection of paints and hobby supplies. They carry all sorts of models (Cars, planes, ships, military, and railroad). Then if your wife or you like a bit of gambling, there is The Nash Casino in Nashua, NH, which is basically across the road. It is located in the large Pheasant Lane Mall. There are also several restaurants in the area. There is a small hobby shop, Hobby Bunker in Wakefield, MA (closer to Boston), but it is mainly geared to military modelers. Of course Boston itself is chock full of points of interests. USS Constitution (oldest commissioned Navy ship) is there, Museum of Science in Cambridge is also fun place to visit. I highly recommend Duck Tours where you can see many of Boston's points of interest and also take ride in the Charles River. Last time I took that tour, I got on at the Museum of Science. There are also many other museums in Boston. If you would like to get a bird's eye view of Boston, there is View Boston observation area on the top of the Prudential Tower.

Well, I tried it when it first become available and unfortunately I had an opposite experience. Yes, it removes paint well but it also attacks (softens) plastic to the point that it can be easily dented or otherwise damaged. I let them know about this. They still continue selling the product which is basically their relabeled wood furniture stripper. On their website you will also now see this warning: IMPORTANT INFORMATION ABOUT USING QCS MODEL SAFE PAint Remover: QCS Model Safe Paint Remover is safe for most plastics, but it should not be used on 3D printed items. QCS Model Safe Paint Remover can be used to submerge the items being stripped, but should not be left unattended for more than 15 to 30 minutes. Check your items to be sure that no damage occurs due to over-exposure. Stripwell is no longer part of my mode paint stripping arsenal. I'm glad to know that it works for you. Here is some additional info:

Again, if you just pickup up the phone and say something that puts you on a "live" list which other scammers will use to bother you some more in the future. Best thing to do is not to pick up the phone when you don't know the person calling you. If the are not scammers and really want to get in touch, they will leave a message. With no message, you know you just avoided a scammer. Just giving them your piece of mind, even though it makes you feel better, doesn't matter to them. Getting abused over the phone is their job - they expect that.

That's too bad. While I have not dealt with him personally, it seems that I've been seeing his classified ads in model magazines forever. Only honest, good, and friendly businessman can last this long. That just reminds me that none of us are getting any younger or healthier.

Yeah, it has been a while KT - you've been a member since 2006! Welcome back!

I highly doubt that AI is involved in this type of a scam.

That just lets scammer know that you are ripe for receiving more scams. They know they are scammers. I know it makes you feel better, but never reply to scam texts or emails. Delete texts, block them, and report as Spam/Scam.

I also dislikke sloppy writting. After all you are not addressing bunch of uneducated yahoos here. You are addressing your fellow modelers. I'm far from perfect when it comes to my writing style (English is a second language for me), but I do try to make my posts reasonably clear, with proper grammar, punctuation, and spelling. With automatic spell checkers this is quite easy. I would venture a statement that their writing style is often related to a person's intelligence level.

I think that is because Japanese thought of those simply as children's toys to be played with rather than detailed static scale replicas which sit in display cases. Actually kids in USA also played with those early full-detail kits, but often blowing them up with firecrackers. However I think that motorized kit lasted a bit longer in Japanese kits' hands since it could actually ride around.

You must mean "antisocial media".

Yes, it is a beauty! Gunze Sangyo made a very nice curbside model of it in 1:32 scale. It was the 1st model I used BMF on.

Plasterboard? I thought that in your part of the world most multistory buildings (most residential and office buildings in general) were usually masonry.

I have used few times. It is very thick so it needs to be thinned to be airbrushed. the 1:1 ratio mentioned above is about right. I used PPG Medium Temperature reducer to thin it. Yes, this is a "hot" lacquer so make sure you use a good primer and always do a spoon test spraying to make sure it will not attack polystyrene.

In my experience pretty much every road tire out there has uneven tread pattern to prevent the whine or resonant oscillations. The variation might be small but if noticeable if you look carefully.

If it is the Can-Do wrecker, why not use the included "rope"? I used it on my build and to me it looks good. If you find it too fuzzy, ship model builders use a trick of running the thread through a block of beeswax or even candle wax. That will eliminate the fuzz and slightly stiffen it. I don't think the metal picture hanger wire will look realistic or in-scale. The twists are not as tight as what scale cable would have (although that could likely be tightened up) and the wire is too stiff to be able to form it into realistic shape. But I suppose it would be worth a try.

When I paint very small figures (1:160 scale) I just drill into the foot/leg and glue in a small diameter brass wire to pin them to some surface with a hole also drilled into it. I can't use any of the soft putty solutions because the foot area of those figures is too small and they would deflect as I was painting them. Putty should work with larger figures but they could still deflect a bit while they are getting painted. It seems like maybe painting the top and bottom half of the figure separately might also be something to consider? Paint it up to the belt line while holding it by upper body, wait for the paint to dry, then paint the top half while holding the bottom.