peteski

Sure, adding tags or including mention of the scale in the thread's subject line would be a great solution, but the problem is getting members to actually use them. Judging by many "click-bait" uninformative subject lines like "Look at this", or even all the threads started in wrong section to begin with, trying to get everybody to create useful subject lines, or even better - tags, is pretty much an impossible task. Then there are newbies who join the forum and won't know the rules. That just ain't happening.

I agree Steve, this sure is an overlooked gem of a model. Even built box-stock, just with some detail painting (like one I build some years ago) the original S-10 shows lots of detail.

Sure, but I doubt your camera has a built-in browser. There must be some additional steps you take to transfer the photos (JPG?) to some computer device (PC, Tablet. etc.) which has a browser pointed to the MCM forum and then you try to upload them here. So what are those steps?

Jon, you've been a member since 2014. You don't remember when Big Boys section was part of the forum and the big reshuffle few years back when several sections were eliminated? I also miss that separate section, but I also remember it wasn't very active.

Well, that changes things a bit.

Really? Air pressure regulators at Harbor Freight start around $7. If you can afford an airbrush, extra seven bucks is not all that much. That's less than a McDonalds Big-Mac and fries. Airbrushing using unregulatod (high) pressure is not very controllable. Might as well use a spray can paints. https://www.harborfreight.com/150-psi-air-compressor-regulator-kit-with-dial-gauge-68223.html?gStoreCode=3357&gQT=1

Thanks Rich! So as I suspected, that glue contains solvent which is hot enough to affect polystyrene (while being safe on 3D printed resin and likely on urethane resins used for old-school resin cast kits). Usually seeing the "Warning: Flammable" on the tube likely indicates that the adhesive uses a hot solvent which might affect polystyrene.

Various online forms censor different ranges of naughty words. On this forum if one of the naughty words is used the message will still post, but the word will be replaced with a "safe" text. I think here they use blah-blah. You will not see "page not found" error. The "page not found" think seems to be generated when one of the forbidden database control words is in the contents of the post. That to me seems like a bug in the forum's software or just sloppily written code if it might allow for the words within the text of a post possibly gain control of the forum's database.

Bob, since you were obviously to create the post which start this thread, you can successfully post messages to the forum. Les' explanation seems to be most likely cause for the error you're seeing. This forum can be very touchy about certain words contained within the post's text. We had a similar situation few years ago, but then the problem went away. I suspect that the more recent updates to the software running the forum re-enabled this "protection" from possible hacking.

Playing forum's psychiatrist, that to me sounds like it is more than just dislike of spouse's hobbies - the problem seems to be rooted much deeper. There is also a difference between actively disliking and just being passively uninterested.

Looks like a typical photo stitching problem from street view in Google Maps (or a really bad Photoshop job).

That BMF problem still seems odd to me. I have used 20+ years old BMF (the original Chrome) on models without having problems with either the adhesive or wrinkling. BMF as you know if a real metal foil. To me it seems that to develop wrinkles after application the metal would actually have to expand somehow (with the extra material having to go somewhere, creasting wrinkles), or the surface it was applied to would have to shrink, with the same results. Not sure what the age of the metal foil would have to do with this. But I do see that the foil on your model is wrinkled. I guess the cause will remain a mystery (and contributing it to the material's age is as explanation as any).

Thanks for the information Rich. You mention using it on 3D printed resin parts. That type of material is pretty resistant to what we call "hot" solvents. I wonder if the Gorilla Contact Cement also has a hot solvent which might affect polystyrene of a typical plastic kit. Is there a list of contents on the tube which would show what type of solvent is in that cement?

I have never (until now) heard or seen BMF wrinkle after application. Was the part in question resin case (as opposed to kit's polystyrene part)? If yes, maybe the resin shrunk causing the foil to wrinkle?

There is no simple answer to this question. Generally Tamiya produces models with best fitting parts, but you are limited to the subjects they sell. This hobby is not about best manufacturer but what specific subject you want to model. If you research the specific model you want to build and then you find out that multiple companies make the model of the same vehicle, then you can start asking which manufacturer's model of that particular vehicle is the "best". Best is also relative as some models of the same vehicle might have certain options not available in the kit of the same vehicle from another manufacturer.

Your question does not belong in this section of the forum. Also, where exactly did you find that website and why aren't you using the well known "official" sites? What kind of notices do you expect to receive (no I did not go to that website and not planning on visiting). Looking at https://www.godaddy.com/whois/results.aspx?itc=dlp_domain_whois&domain=revellmodel.com That domain name is owned by Gname.com Pte. Ltd. not Revell.

Daniel, those are very nice models and very good artistic photography, but I wonder if you would consider reducing their size (resampling them) before uploading them to the forum? These images are huge (4000 pixels across). Such high resolution is not needed for viewing on the forum, and according to the admins we should start thinking about conserving the forum's storage space. With some work on your side before uploading the photos would be helpful to the future of the forum. See

I wouldn't be so sure. Probably safe with a quick wipe, but I wouldn't leave it on the painted surface for extended period of time.

That is probably the longest (and non-working) URL I have seen here. Looks like Monty tried to copy it from Outlook and failed. He can probably see it just fine on his device.

Contact cements usually have you coat both glued surfaces and let the glue partially dry, then put the parts together for a permanent joint. Is this how this adhesive is designed to be used? BTW, guys, not all Gorilla glues are of the expanding (foaming) urethane type, which was their original adhesive. They now also make other non-urehane based adhesives, such as CA (super) glue and this stuff. These will have the expansion issue.

This problem (tire melt) has been occurring from time to time ever since soft vinyl tires started being included with plastic model kits. PVC a hard plastic material. Plasticizer (type of chemical) is added to vinyl to soften it, making it more rubbery. Over the years some (but not all) batches of this type of vinyl were unstable, with the plasticizer (thick clear liquid) leaching out of the vinyl. When a tire is on constant contact with plastic, that chemical over some time (sometimes long time) gets absorbed into kit's plastic, softening it to the point that it gets distorted by the pressure of the tire like it is shown (in pretty severe form) in this thread. While not widespread problem nowadays, some Chinese-made plastic kits or diecast models with vinyl tires will also have the tire melt problem. And yes, it can affect the plastic base. It can also affect lacquered wood surfaces. Sometimes, on plastic bases you can even see the oily plasticizer liquid surrounding the tire in the contact area with the base. There might also be some types of plastic not affected by the plasticizer.

A word of warning. The plasticizer chemical that makes vinyl tires soft leached out of the tire and made the kit's plastic soft enough to cause the damage. But the plasticizer remains in the plastic, so that entire area is now softer than the rest of the body. Even if you remove the raised areas and fill in the depression, the surrounding plastic is still affected by the plasticizer. It would make sense to remove plastic surrounding the tire-shaped depression. Sort of like with cancer - you don't only remove the tumor, but also some tissue surrounding the tumor.

Why the iffy scale stops you from adding figures to your dioramas? 1:1 scale people come in many different sizes (both height-wise and weight). There are short and tall people, fat and skinny. Even if the figure is not the same exact scale as the model, if it's close enough, it will still look right.

I guess that makes me paranoid and I'm ok with that.

Funny thing about this is that as I understand the word hubcap was originally used to describe a small cup-shaped metal cover in the center of a wooden spoke wheel. It protected the hub bearing from debris and keep the lubricating grease from oozing out. Those early wooden wheels usually did not have full wheel covers. Later on, when wheel covers became more widely used, I guess people found using the "wheel cover" name too cumbersome, so those full size covers became hubcaps. Many contemporary cars still use the small hubcaps for non-driven wheels/axles.