D.Pack

Acrylic enamel. Here is a post from FSM magazine, 2010. The writer was in the paints industry and writes of 'ad wonks' and their word misuse to make a sale. Which sounds about right. For myself and rattlecans, if Tamiya lacquer means a hot cellulose, then currently that's all I need. And interesting to see above the acrylic lacquer as 'no such animal'. SMS paints from Australia are labelled as this.

peteski. Thanks for your reply and links. Wikipedia, I should have guessed that myself when searching. And it is complicated for sure, the various meanings of enamel for example. It even refers to enamel nitrocellulose, which I would never have guessed. And your colloquial terms makes things clearer for me over here. My reason for posting was to know if Tamiya TS sprays are 'hot' and comparable to a UK cellulose paint, which it is. My paint supplier also sells cellulose custom aerosols. Am wanting to try a can of it, see if the finish is perhaps finer, (like Tamiya) and show more detail than with using their normal auto acrylic cans. Thanks again👍.

First to say, I am a Brit. And over here, lacquer, it means clearcoat only. For using on cars, furniture, that fence at the end of your garden. What is lacquer paint in the USA? Is it one of the oldest auto paint types, like cellulose paint?Or is it actually named nitrocellulose? In UK, (nitro?)cellulose was the only paint type in rattlecans until 30 years ago, before acrylic. And this photo, a UK shop. Just for more confusion!

More primer, not so cheap. £10-11 for 500ml. Colour Forge, a great smooth finish primer for the war figure painters. As good as Tamiya. And 25 colours to choose from. Am using here a pale grey and an off white. And this dark blue I plan for a black colour. A Also Autotek for £7. From the Boyes stores in mostly the North East. They have a great hobby department. Vallejo, Citadel the above Colour Forge and Humbrol paints and various tools.

So, I sanded all over and a good thing too, as primer was still with orange peel, so went down to 4000. And surprised at how easy the TS green rubbed off using 1200 Euro and how tough the TS primer is. From here i'll paint my black option.

Thanks to reply. The green, it does have orange peel. So I'll sand that out and more, fade it all over the car then decide if to continue. Another option I have is a black paint finish.

Hi all. Am making a paint repair on a bodyshell and just need to know if am working correctly and if its worth my time to continue. The first pic shows a broad yellow stripe that I sprayed on the bumpers and door sills. Then masked off to spray with green. After two coats I realized that dark stripe (the yellow) will always be there. A two tone green effect. And I didn't want to flood the shell in TS paint. So am repairing as below. I've sanded through all the colours down to the primer. Thankfully an easy job with these TS sprays. I'm slowly feathering the green edge, fade out that green border. Then plan to spray the green followed by yellow. I'll do edge to edge masking this time. But the green repair. Is this how other members have continued? Should i feather the paint even higher up the bodyshell? I have also a full Micro mesh kit for sanding.

Use a mix of Klear* & water to lay the decals? I recently used this mix to lay some Slixx nascar decals.I chose to wash off the oId gritty glue. Started with a 50/50 dilution and in some places under solid colour, used pure Klear. Also need an ammonia/Klear/water solution to remove any residue. *Or it's new alternative name. Pledge for my use.

Painting just from inside? A black marker pen and brush paint with Revell Aqua. Then use stretched sprue or toothpick to clean the edges along the mould line.

Well, been viewing some Don Yost paint vids and he says no problems with clear over 12000. And my soft paint surface under a strong light, it does have micro scratches/ swirls or whatever they're called, so still enough 'tooth'.

Drinking of it, must be a Cali thing. Aaaah! Using thinner not water. That's the difference of Tamiya and Revell acrylics. TruColor paints from Arizona are also the same. Need a dedicated solvent thinner.

Hi all. My bodyshell colour coat, I have polished down to 12000 so I can lay some pinstripe decals. I then want to clear coat them and polish out the clear to 12000 again. The colour coat, at 12000 it will accept the clearcoat, or should be rougher at 6 or 8000? I'll be rattlecanning, so only one pressure setting.

Well Tamiya is a solvent acrylic. It's why it's flammable, smells funny needs dedicated thinner and a poison control centre if swallowed. Hellfire. And it might still be banned in California as a cancer risk. Certainly don't see that info on Revell's aqua acrylic. Acrylic doesn't mean water apparently. Water acrylic paint is the most common, so everyone assumes that all acrylics are aqua based.

That is a fantastic build. For me, it being outside really lifts that pure black. I can see several colour tones. That's how I want my black cars to look inside, the variations. But I know that's impossible. My cars, better photos in Randy Ayres Nascar. Also, a website I use. use.https://encycolorpedia.com/ Can find CMYK codes for paints and even design your own. Interesting to see how much primary colour are in some black paints. Humbrol 21 Black is described as a very dark shade of pink/red.

An auto paint shop. Most will supply a custom colour for you. About 15 minutes to create a rattlecan. Use their customer swatches, or a paint code from Ford or GM for example. And other standards like RAL,Pantone,British Standard. Just need a code number. Different colours use various size of mica (car manufacturers standards) so from a swatch I picked one with the smallest grain size. None in your town, lots of online suppliers. My recent can. RAL YellowGreen. Same as a Kawasaki Green.