peteski

The airbrush I own and use is a 30+ years old siphon-feed Badger 200. I do also have a paint cup attachments for it but I almost never use it. I like the that airbrush. It performs well. Cleaning is no problem either. Not looking for another airbrush. Can't comment on Iwatas.

The newest Unimat (show above) looks very similar to Proxxon machines. Unimzt sounds like a misspelling.

@Donny , good to see you looking over older threads for tips. Many newbies just start new threads asking questions without even trying to find answers to those questions asked multiple times. Here are some other CA glue related threads: https://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/155447-ca-and-other-things-im-clueless-about/ https://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/165362-ca-glue-wells/ https://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/182361-bob-smith-industries-glue/ https://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/168907-any-glue-i-should-stay-away-from-with-resin/

Funny thing is that the subject line of this thread states "Frames" not "Flames". I looked in because I was curious about FRAMES being modified with a grinder, and all I see is some yahoo with extremely silly ideas. No, I didn't watch the video. The video's still image here clearly showed me all I needed to know.

That's an unusual model. Nicely built. How large is it in 1:10 scale?

Excellent modeling! I love it! The theme song sure is an ear-worm!

Nothing to argue about Bill. I was referring to the original Metalizer airbrush-ready paints supplied in glass bottles. This is before the company was bought out by Testors. It was long time ago but as I remember they were never offered in rattle cans. Only when Testors bought that paint line they started offering them in spray can form (and I believe they also changed the paint's formula). Testors sold their metalizer line of paint in airbrush-ready bottles and some were offered in spray cans.

I still have some of the original (even before Testors acquired them) Metalizer paints in airbrush-ready bottles. I think that most similar product today is Alclad II series of their metallic lacquers. https://alclad2.com/finishes/regular/ and https://alclad2.com/finishes/high-shine/ These produce smooth metallic finish with no discernible flakes, but you really need an airbrush to apply them (just like with the original Metallizer paints).

Ah, you want to go that way? Gauge is the distance between rails. Scale is just like with model cars, the actual scale of the model itself. Your standard gauge H0 scale (1:87.5) model train runs on H0 gauge (16mm) track. I mentioned standard, because you could also be modeling H0 scale narrow-gauge trains which, while still 1:87.5 scale run on N gauge (9mm) track. Or going the other way, you could be modeling narrow-gauge 0 scale (1:48) trains and those could run on H0 gauge (16mm) track. "Scale" always indicate actual scale of the model, while track of a certain gauge can be utilized in more than one modeling scales. Things are never simple and easy. Many modelers refer to model train's scale as "gauge". Also, I use "zero" and not upper case Oh because that is the most proper nomenclature. In the early days of model trains when scale was not very precisely defined, large gauge was called "1" (one). Then a smaller gauge was developed, and that one was called "0" (zero) because it was smaller than "1". Then even smaller models were produced, and those were called H0 (as in Half a Zero, because their scale and gauge was approximately half of 0). That is how H0 was named. But probably since it was easier to pronounce, modelers (especially modelers in USA), started pronouncing it Eich-oh, replacing the zero with an upper case "oh". Not very useful but fun trivia. Not sure how wheel flanges come into play. Those are the the protruding rings on the inside of wheel treads which prevent the train from derailing.

All those are valid and correct when used in the correct context. Turnout is the the entire configuration of diverging track. Points are the individual movable rails of that turnout. Switch is also part of the turnout. It contains the point rails, the throwbar, and any other components involved with the movable points. Remember that a frog and guardrails are also parts of a turnout. But yes, model railroaders often misuse the term "switch" to describe a complete turnout. But we are getting astray of the wheel wells.

Instead of calling the rear ones "wheel wells" and front "inner fender wells" wouldn't simply calling them "rear wheel wells" and "front wheel wells" suffice? Those terms are unambiguous. Also isn't the sheet metal over the rear wheels also called a "fender", so "inner fender wheels" isn't really pointing exclusively to the front fenders? But there are other examples of not very clear or correct names for various automotive items. Like wheel covers are called "hubcaps" even though they cover more than the wheel's hub, and "valve covers" where those are actually rocker-arm (or cam in OHC setups) covers.

If it's on the Internet, it must be true! BTW, misuse of "its" and "it's" is also rampant. Actually I had a problem with it until my GF straightened me out on the usage.

Well, I'm glad that you were able to find the way to search the MCW site. But I'm confused. If you already exchanged emails with MCW and they informed you that 2158E is available, why not just ask them how to order it since it appears not to be showing on their website.

LOL, I should clarify. I'm old school. I don't own a 3D scanner. Just a 20 year old 1200dpi flatbed Epson. Since most of the decals are for the car side, I place the model's shell with the side down and scan it. If I need to, I also scan the top side (roof, hood and trunk areas). Corel Draw is a 2D drawing program. I import the scan to a locked layer so I can draw the decal images over the scan. Here is an example. In this drawing the bottom 2 images are scans of the model's body, and as you can see I'm placing and sizing the decal artwork over them to make it correct size. In the drawing everything is in 1:1 scale (model's scale that is), so if the decals look good over the scanned body, they will look good on the model. The rest of the images were some photos of the actual car from the internet I was using to create the decal images from.

Being a bit impatient? I notified the admins to put this in the proper place.