peteski

Few months ago I've seen a similar display in the middle of an isle of a Walmart in Manchester, NH.

Interesting and unusual creation. I have been attending car shows in Massachusetts and New Hampshire for years and I never ran into this one.

WOW!

I did a quick search, and here's one of the threads about Alsa Chrome system. To me the $140 price doesn't seem all that outrageous considering how much a rattle can of Revell Chrome sells, and knowing that Alsa will be more durable without any extra clear coats. Like Steve mentioned in that thread, just sending the kit's parts to be "chromed" (when that service was still available) could cost $80. $140 doesn't seem that outrageous, considering that you will be able to do multiple kits.

That's all well and good, but as you said, more often then not those Darwin Award Recipients also take some some innocent lives along with theirs.Or better yet, they survive the crash while others perish. It is just not cool!

If you are using a "real" computer (not a phone or tablet) then I can offer a hint. When I post URL links I first click on the chain link symbols on the top pf the message compose window. That opens up a dialog box asking to enter the URL. I past the link into there (usually leaving the "text" field blank), and click "Insert into post" button. I don't just past the URL link directly into the compose window. Like this https://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/191128-can’t-paste-links/#comment-2869491 EDIT: I wonder if you are asking why when you paste the URL to another thread in this forum into the compose window, it doesn't automatically expand into a small image of the thread? If that is the question then I don't know why it would not do that automatically.

If you search the forum (not using the native search engine) for Alsa chrome, you will see several discussion. Some here use it and are quite happy with it.

While not the greatest option nowadays, of possible take the train.

That sounds like the cheap plastic was not polystyrene (or ABS). While I'm not familiar with Revell cement, I suspect ti is a typical solvent-based cement. If it is polystyrene (or ABS, which is a variant of polystyrene) should all be gluable using hobby glues for styrene, and even CA glue.

Most quick-set epoxies while they harden clear (or slightly amber in color), will become darker yellow with age (after several years). But if you use epoxy in a way that it is not visible outside the model, that is not a problem.

I did not mention polypropylene as I have never seen it available in thin clear sheets. It is usually used to for making Tupperware or similar food containers, and it is usually not crystal clear. As you said, adhesives do not stick well to it. Probably best to use something else.

No, that's fine Bill. Thank you. Good to know that acetate is still alive and well, and available, but I just haven't seen any acetate clear sheets for sale at any hobby shops I have been using in the last 30 years. And while I agree that the materials are usually labeled correctly by the manufacturers, I still believe that majority of modelers actually use different materials, while generically calling them "acetate". At least in my experience.

Acetate? Kind of like calling all water-based paints "acrylics" is a misnomer, acetate is inaccurate. I don't think anybody has actually used clear acetate for model windows for many decades. I don't even know where one would get a sheet of real acetate. Sorry, had to get this off my chest. Clear plastic we use for models is usually polystyrene, PET, PETG (like Vivak), acrylic, polycarbonate, polyester, or vinyl. For glue you can use canopy cement, epoxy, odorless CA glue (it doesn't fog the plastic). I often use standard CA glue with BSI brand accelerator. The glue sets before it has a chance to fog, and that accelerator brand does no harm plastic in general.

Milo, when you are just a straight-out-of-the box kit builder, you can get by with minimal amount of tools. But when you start getting into more advanced modeling (like you are starting here), you really need to get yourself some more tools and scratchbuilding supplies. Otherwise, you will be frustrated and your kitbashing and part swapping will not be done very well. Unfortunately, unlike Legos, plastic model kits are not designed for easily swapping parts between them. Usually there are some minor or major modifications required. It also takes some experience to be able to look at the parts to be swapped and figure out how to get everything to mate properly.

They don't get fired because that industry is short-staffed to start, and can't find anybody to take the job. I also heard that the ATC equipment they use is really ancient. I wonder how long it will take for AI to replace human ATCs, and how well that will work? Scary!