Paint Chipping.

[ericmaxman]

Hi guys. I'm new at this cool forum. Found this off google. hehe

Anyway, I just sprayed my car, which I have sandpapered and primed. but after masking the windows edges, the paint chipped off !! :lol:

I have used brake fluid to remove the paint and restart the whole thing.

Question is, how do I prevent such a thing from happening again?

[envious8420]

first, welcome to mcm!

on to the paint,

there are a few different factors to consider with tape lifting

first is tape thickness, the thinner the tape the less chance of a lift. when separating colors or edges i like to use 3M fine line tape. its very flexible and very thin like a vinyl decal. it doesnt build a ton of paint up at the tape edge which is what will cause the lift.

next would be the amount of paint you are putting on the tape edge again less is more.

sometimes there is no way to achieve 1 or 2 so a nice new #11 blade lightly along the edge of the tape will slice the paint deep enough to let the tape come up but not deep enough to get into the plastic.

hope this helped in your building.

any more questions feel free to ask.

im an automotive painter by trade so i usually have the solution to paint/body isseus.

jim

[envious8420]

Envious got it pretty much into a nutshell 4 u. Just 1 thing to add. If you let the paint sit too long before removing the tape you are almost guarrantying yourself of a tape related paint lift. This happens besause the top layer of paint gets too hard to seperate when the tape is pulled.

I usually begin removing tape about 1-2 minutes after painting. I just start demasking from the same point that I started painting, and pull the tape away @ a 45 degree angle and folded back against itself. This prevents the still pliable paint from dragging. I have gotten VERY clean lines w/ NO lift for the year or so since I discovered my method.

If u'd like to see for yourself, click over to UnderGlass and check out "Heres a Sample of my Work....from MassCar 08" thats my method's results.

this is a great technique as well. i use this method at work when im only clearing part of a panel.(lower portion, breaking in the body line.)

like ledsled said the trick is to pull the tape immediately after spraying, the edge rolls over itself instead of making a hard break at a tape line. making for a much smoother edge.

[Brendan]

I'm a little bit confused by what your question is...If it's the tape lifting the paint off the window trim, then the way the people above told you is the way to go.

I'm getting the sense that your question is the paint is lifting off the actual body and not the trim. If this is the case, you need to allow your paint to cure longer, depending on the type of paint that you use...before you mask. Enamals take an extra long time to dry sometimes as long as two weeks to a month plus. Acrylic paints dry quickly but still can be tacky for about a week. And then you have the lacquer paints which you can mask up the following day. Hope this helps.

[Brendan]

Nice catch bro. I hadn't even thought of that being part of the concern. Good way to see the other side of the coin and make sure ppl get the WHOLE answer. Good save.

[ericmaxman]

Thanks for the help. <_<

Well, it's the window part (near the roof) that stumbled me. I use Industrial Paint (anchor) for spraying as the Tamiya ones (or equivalent) aren't cheap anymore here. So, I usually sand the body before spraying (1500grit) and wetsand it (also 1500grit). After that, I'll wash it with soap water. Then I sprayed it with primer (anchor). I suppose I did two mist layers before the heavy coats. But I do need to know the curing time for each layer. After the primer had dried for about a week or so, then I proceeded to paint on the body ( anchor white ). After the same steps as the primer, I wetsanded the painted body and allowed it to settle. After another week, I did the window trims, only to find out that the paint chips off. I am currently using the Tamiya 10mm masking tape. Can anyone highlight my mistake?

Thanks guys. B)

[abedooley]

I had no idea that you could use brake fluid to remove paint!! Does it matter what kind of paint or how cured it is?? NEED... MORE....INFO..... PLEASE???

ABE DOOLEY

[ericmaxman]

Hmm. I suppose the curing time is not important as I removed the paint right after I sprayed it. But do be careful as brake fluids differ from each other, as so I am not responsible if your plastic car melts. But do be warned that it cannot remove Artline

Maker Silver. I had to use sandpaper to remove it.

[abedooley]

I figured that it wouldn't be healthy for the plastic just by the way brake fluid smells... Everyday I see some around-the-house-off-the-shelf stuff used in some new and fascinating way (at least to me anyway) when you would have never thought it had any use except what it was made for. So, do you rub it on and off or do you dip it for a min. or 2. Or is it too harsh to dip at all??

THANKS,

ABE DOOLEY

[envious8420]

i use dot 3 brake fluid. submerge the whole body in a container with a cover, let it soak for 2-3 days.

remove it and wash thourghly with soap and water and a toothbrush.

use dish soap for the grease cutting action.

removes just about any finish.

dont know if it work for resin parts

[ericmaxman]

I figured that it wouldn't be healthy for the plastic just by the way brake fluid smells... Everyday I see some around-the-house-off-the-shelf stuff used in some new and fascinating way (at least to me anyway) when you would have never thought it had any use except what it was made for. So, do you rub it on and off or do you dip it for a min. or 2. Or is it too harsh to dip at all??

THANKS,

ABE DOOLEY

Hmm. I take a small can and put some bf into it, and use a toothbrush to rub it off. Some other ppl recommend to soak it in the fluid.

[Brendan]

Thanks for the help. :D

Well, it's the window part (near the roof) that stumbled me. I use Industrial Paint (anchor) for spraying as the Tamiya ones (or equivalent) aren't cheap anymore here. So, I usually sand the body before spraying (1500grit) and wetsand it (also 1500grit). After that, I'll wash it with soap water. Then I sprayed it with primer (anchor). I suppose I did two mist layers before the heavy coats. But I do need to know the curing time for each layer. After the primer had dried for about a week or so, then I proceeded to paint on the body ( anchor white ). After the same steps as the primer, I wetsanded the painted body and allowed it to settle. After another week, I did the window trims, only to find out that the paint chips off. I am currently using the Tamiya 10mm masking tape. Can anyone highlight my mistake? :rolleyes:

Thanks guys. :P

I don't know what you mean by Industrial Paint. Do you know if it's an automotive acrylic lacquer or enamel or water based acrylic? Did you shoot a clear coat on the body before you painted the window trim?

From the steps you said you took, everything sounds okay. You don't need to worry about curing time between coats if the paint is still wet. When I paint, I'll put 3 coats of paint on in about 5 to 15 minute intervals. And then a wet coat.

The only thing that I think that could have happened is that sometimes even though you're using the same paint, it will react with each other and not adhere to each other when dry. I usually use an acrylic lacquer on the bodies and then use a water base acrylic for my detailing. That way if I mess up, I can just use alcohol to wipe the paint off without hurting the body.

[ericmaxman]

Here is the link for the paint I used.

http://www.dpiaerosol.com/aerosol3.htm

anyway, since my upcoming car is white, I don't intend to clear coat it as I worry it may turn color after some time. As for my second one, the clearcoat has been wetsanded and I will spray anther few more layers and see how does it turn out. :rolleyes:

[Brendan]

Here is the link for the paint I used.

http://www.dpiaerosol.com/aerosol3.htm

anyway, since my upcoming car is white, I don't intend to clear coat it as I worry it may turn color after some time. As for my second one, the clearcoat has been wetsanded and I will spray anther few more layers and see how does it turn out. :D

The paint you're using is a Nitrocellular base paint. Lacquer can be used to thin it. This type of paint is mainly used for wood finishes and is not usually very good on plastics. But they do work. You could have a problem with the paint not wanting to adhere to the plastic or to itself. You might need to rough the area up before putting another color. It might help the paint bond better. I would suggest trying to find something like Duplicolor or that type of spray paint which is an automotive lacquer. You'll definitely have better results.

[ericmaxman]

The paint you're using is a Nitrocellular base paint. Lacquer can be used to thin it. This type of paint is mainly used for wood finishes and is not usually very good on plastics. But they do work. You could have a problem with the paint not wanting to adhere to the plastic or to itself. You might need to rough the area up before putting another color. It might help the paint bond better. I would suggest trying to find something like Duplicolor or that type of spray paint which is an automotive lacquer. You'll definitely have better results.

How do I apply lacquer to it? Do I need to spray it into a empty cup and use a brush? I suppose that if I make the masking tape less sticky, it may help. What do you guys think?