Brendan

I had problems with it if you leave it in too long. (I left it in for about 3 hours.) It makes the resin more like rubber instead of being hard. I've learned to let it sit for only 10 - 15 minutes at a time. And I use a toothbrush to clean it; then immediately wash it off with soap and water. You can go back and do this several times. Hope this is the information you needed to hear.

The race car and the street car don't have anything in common except for the engine block and the roof line. The GT1 car is a completely custom done car. That's why they wouldn't be able to do a trans kit for the car.

Glad I could help. One other thing I think I should let you know about Tamiya...when the directions say to mix a clear color with silver, it's actually wanting you to lay down the silver first and then the clear color over the top, e.g. clear red, clear yellow etc. It's usually found when they're trying to do dashboard lights or some sort of lighting. The silver makes the clear color brighter.

It's saying to mix them in a one- to- one ratio. I usually have an empty glass jar into which I mix my paints. You have to remember that Tamiya thinks that most people who build their kits have an airbrush. If you don't have one, do a small mix and see if you can find a spray paint that is close to that color....

Excellent job on the builds. The Cadillac is a kit from Quikskins. The kit might be coming back. Talk to Mark over at MSHobbies, We've been trying to get together a list of old kits by Quikskins to be re-released.

Where do you think Tamiiya USA is located? Also some of the biggest ports are in CA. It's the shortest distance for them to ship their products. All the stuff they're being nailed on is mainly for the labelling on their paint cans. All paint manufacturers go through this about every 5 to 6 years if my memory is correct.

I'm with Mark on this one. It looks like it's moisture to me getting caught under the paint. A lot of times you won't notice it till the paint starts to dry. What I've done in the past to help get rid of the moisture after wet sanding the primer is I wipe the model down with denatured alcohol. That seems to dry everything out and you can put your color coat on in a short time after doing it.

Talked to Jameston at Scale Finishes. He'll be able to match up paints for you. http://scalefinishes.com/

I usually pick my kits up at model shows. But here's a link to MA Scale Models. I have never tried them before but when I get my kit, I'll let people know. I've heard good things about them though. http://www.mamodels.com/mod-imsa.html I'll be out of town for a while. If comments are made, I won't be able to reply.

Thanks for the comments. I'm going to be working on a kit from MA Scale Models of a Momo Porsche 962C, the last year the 962 raced before they switched over to Nissan.

The kit is from Provence Moulage in 1/43 scale. Outstanding kit. A lot of detail for the size. Picked this up at this past year's NNL West after seeing one built and was talked into buying it by a friend. (You know who you are!) Definitely would build more from this company. Paints used were Tamiya's TS-30 and TS-8 airbrushed for the body. And a mix of Tamiya acrylics for the interior. I'm really glad that the kit came with two sets of vacformed headlight covers. I have a hard enough time trying to cut them out on 1/24 scale kits. This is the second time I've built a 1/43 scale and I have just ordered another kit from another company to try. That's if my eyes can hold out trying to fiddle with all the tiny pieces. Feel free to comment.

I have used both MCW's and Scale Finishes' paints. Scale Finishes is far superior. I've had issues with MCW's paint literally peeling off the car some years later. Also Scale Finishes will try to do anything to help find the right color for the customer. They both make acrylic lacquer and enamels paints depending on the colors being asked for. In my personal opinion the Scale Finishes paints lay down much nicer than the MCW's paints. On top of that it is much easier to order from Scale Finishes than from MCW.

Very nice! I think that this Ferrari is one of those cars that you have to have a model of if you're a sports car fan.

There's quite a few pictures of the GT2 race car. If you know the team's name, you can do the research by the name of the team. All sorts of stuff will pop up. Here's a site for Risi. http://www.autoblog.com/photos/risi-competizione-ferrari-458-gtc/#photo-3977953 Junkman...they can't stop you from taking pictures. That's part of the deal ALMS has with the teams...that fans can take as many pictures as they want. When BMW first came in with the LMR, they tried to hide their car and they were fined heavily for it. Hope this helps.

Thanks for everyone's comments. To kind of give you an idea of how bad the plastic was...the body was warped and I warmed it up in some warm water and tried to bend it back into shape. As soon as it cooled down, it cracked. I completely forgot that this was originally a Heller kit. The Wave kit added some photoetch pieces that were completely mis sized for the kit; not even worth using. Hopefully this will get my rearend going and start doing some models. I've been out of town so much, it's hard to get into a rhythm of building.

Picked this kit up at this year's NNL West. The kit is from Wave which is a small Japanese manufacturer. What I can tell you about this kit is that it's a hunk of plastic. Nothing fit properly. As you can see in the photos, the body did not fit well at all to the chassis. Only reason I build this kit is that it is an interesting subject. And I didn't want to buy a resin kit of it. The only upsides to this kit were the decals and the glass fit. Other that that, not really worth building. Paints used were Tamiya's TS-26 and TS-16, airbrushed. And Tamiya Acrylics for the interior. I didn't try to fix too many of the mistakes. Just wanted to build something to get out of my non-building slump. Feel free to comment.

Thanks for everyone's comments. I saw the plain white box version and it does come with some different decal markings for the street car which will be nice. They do need to drop the price on the kit. It's a little much for what you get for the kit.

With being out of town, racing in a 24 hour race, some family issues, and having the flu, I finally got it done. Outstanding kit. Very much a must have for Porsche lovers. Will be nice to see some decal options for the kit. I decided to do my car as one coming straight from the factory to a race team. The decals they provided were a little too flashy for my taste even though I am an anime fan. Word of advice for anyone who is going to be building this kit...watch out for paint build up on the body as the window and other pieces that fit onto the body are extremely tight fitting. In some cases I didn't even use glue. The body to chassis is also a very tight squeeze. So take care when doing these steps. I personally plan on buying a couple more of these kits and doing different versions. Feel free to comment. The Fujimi kit sitting next to the Profile24 911 GT3 Le Mans car.

Sorry double post. Please delete.

You shouldn't have to pay $60 for this kit. I got mine for a little over $40. It is an extremely nice kit. Definitely a must have for Porsche lovers. Supposedly Studio 27 is doing decals for this kit. So it will be interesting to see what they have for the selection.

Finally got over this flu that I had for about two weeks. I was able to finish up the detailing of the car. Next time you see this car, it will be in the Under glass Section. Thanks for being very patient with me. This is probably one of my longer builds.

Sorry I haven't been posting much. Been a very busy past couple of weeks. Race team I belong to did their first 24 hour event in Nevada. Took 17th out of 87. Then had some family issues which kept me gone for a little longer than I had expected. I apologize for not responding to those who emailed me. I will get to it as soon as I can. Here's what I had done before I left. Got the black onto the body. Was a little difficult for the front since there was no line to follow. Had to eyeball it. Wing uprights are attached to the engine cover. Hoping to get this finished in the next couple of days. Still need to do some small detail parts on the body; mainly the grills. Hopefully will be in the under glass section soon if I don't have anything else unexpected happen.

Hey Curt, No, the seatbelts did not come with the kit. The belt itself is actually cloth tape painted with Tamiya's Acrylics. The hardware was from leftover parts. This is a kit that you would definitely like.

Finally got the body painted after 6 "screw-ups"...found out what was happening. About 3 and a half years ago, Tamiya had a bad batch of paint and I was lucky enough to have a can of it. Paint had a little too much solvent and was actually eating through the primer. Luckily I had a can of Model Masters Classic White Lacquer. I decanted and airbrushed it on. Still need to paint the black trim on the body. But I'm happy I just got the body painted. Wing painted Tamiya's TS-29. I added photo etch rivets to the end plates.

Got some more work done. Still having issues with painting the body. There's something on the plastic that is not liking the paint. Hopefully I'll have better luck this weekend when I shoot. Finished the roll cage. Had to drill the mounting holes in the chassis a little bigger to accommodate the roll cage. Extremely tight fit. Seatbelts placed on the seat. Dashboard completed. Ended up breaking the pedals off the dashboard so I made my own. Interior painted. Detailed with black and NATO black. Watch out for a slight fit issue between the roll cage and the dashboard. Had to remove the dashboard and install the roll cage first and then the dashboard...contrary to what the instructions say.