Brendan

Got the putty on and resanded. So all the pin holes are gone now. I haven't had to use this much filler since I did the Jaguar GTP. One thing I don't like about this company is that you have to do so much modification to make it the right version. Still need to spray the white primer down so I can get a white color coat down. And that should happen in the next couple of days. Also got the dashboard together. All the pieces here are all white metal. It would have been a little better if they would have cast it in resin. Ended up using a little more putty on the back to get everything to be level.

I really like the paint scheme on the motorcyle. Be interesting to watch how the project progresses.

If it's a decal, I usually use a lot of Micro Sol to soften the decal and then I use Micro Set to help set the decal to the tire. And then I brush on a lacquer dull coat over the top. But I usually have the tire mounted to the rim before I do any of this. Quite often I use tire stencils and airbrush the lettering on. It gives it a more realistic look. Make sure you use water based acrylic paints. If you have a picture of what the tire looks like, I might have a spare for you.

Started work on this kit from Studio 27. It is a very nicely casted model. Only downside is there is a lot of white metal and parts to be filled in for this version of the car. This car doesn't have a racing history. The actual car only raced once in Japan and was only tested here in the U.S. Car had a lot of promise except for its lack of horse power. The car was designed to be run with a 3.5L V-12 normally aspirated. In most opinions the car would have been better if had run with the twin-turboed V-6. Studio 27 has actually incorrectly named this car. It should be the P35. The paint scheme I'm going to be doing will be an overall blue with white top and red and white chevrons on the side. Scale Finishes has helped me out by matchng the correct blue for me. Body has been primed and sanded but I do see issues where I'll have to fill in areas since there are some small pin holes. And I need to add a little more filler to the back of the car. The white metal add ons to the rear fenders had a very large gap that I had to fill as well as the side intakes. Chassis is pretty much complete. Not a whole lot to the interior. Although I did have to drill larger holes into the chassis to fit the wheels correctly.

Thanks for everyone's comments. As for my next projects, I am working on a Nissan NP35 GTP. Also I'm going to be starting on the Aston Martin Lola LMP.

I fixed the problem. Photo Bucket decided they wanted to delete a bunch of my photos. I was able to get the issue resolved.

This is a resin kit from Quick Skins. The kit is very nicely casted and very sinple to put together. A good kit for people getting into resin. Paints used are Duplicolor Gloss Black and Tamiya's TS-30 (airbrushed). I did modify the exhaust since I cracked it when I was cleaning it. I drilled it out and added aluminum tubing. The only disappointment was the decals. I did use Tamiya's TS-8 to touch up the red on the decals. I added photoetch window fasteners as well as the white camera on the roof and the Ford decals on the camera. I did have to supply the Camel GT on the side of the car as well as the electric shut-off decals. But he does mention this in the kit instructions. I would highly recommend this kit. Can't wait to see what Quick Skins comes out with next. Feel free to comment.

Well the car is pretty much done. Next time it will be in the Underglass Section. Windows are in. Very nice fitting; easy to cut out. Held in place with a little bit of epoxy. On the chassis, you'll notice the red arrow. I had to notch the chassis to help fit the brake intakes. You'll also notice how the wing is attached. You might need to do little adjustments to get the wing to set right. On mine I sanded the holes a little bigger so it gave me some play for adjustments. Thanks for following along. I would highly recommend this kit.

From the photos I have, it's a cross between 3 or 4 different races. He left a lot of stuff open for you to modify yourself, especially on the front of the car. Literally this car was changing from race to race. And he made kind of a generic version of the car. For the Daytona car make sure you put on the roof camera. I'm fitting on a camera from my parts box on the one I'm doing. Plus you're also going to have to find some of the side decals that are missing for the Daytona version. I only have one picture of the Daytona car and it's from the front so I can't tell you too much about it.

Very nicely done. Love all the detail work you added.

Tamiya's TS line of spray paints are acrylic lacquer. As for a clear, Tamiya's clear TS-13 works really well.

He does mention in the instructions that you do need to get some other decals to make it a correct car. This kit was initially meant for his own personal collection and was never intended to be sold. But several other people and some friends of mine talked him into releasing it. As for the price, that's about his usual price for most of his kits. Kind of a heads' up for anyone applying these decals. Cut as closely as you can but leave a little bit of a border. I did run into a small problem with the colored decals where if I cut really close, they would start to tear in the water. But if I left a small border, I didn't have that problem. I just got my copy of MCM and noticed that my friend, Bill, had his kit in the resin section. I'm hoping mine looks just as good. Although I will be adding some other small pieces from my parts box that he didn't add.

Interior done. Added some wires to electric boxes. Like I said before, there's not a whole lot to the interior. I attached tires to the chassis as well. Started adding decals. This is a two-step process as the white is a separate color from the colored decals. The decals are the biggest disappointment on this kit. Also had to supply several of my own decals that I had since they were not on the decal sheet. Decals finished and awaiting clear coat. These decals definitely need a clear coat over the top.

Always a joy to watch your builds. It's coming along very nicely. I have built all three of the somewhat modern kits from Tamiya and I thought the McLaren was the best of the three.

I like it! Ilike it! I always like these old Formula 1 cars.

Very nice clean build. Sorry to hear about the troubles you had with the small metal transfers. They're always kind of difficult on Tamiya kits. It looks really good.

This is what I've done in the last couple of days. Chassis and body are both painted and awaiting the decals. Body painted with Duplicolor Gloss Black. Then painted Tamiya's TS-30 and then masked off the silver and repainted with black. All paints were airbrushed. I painted the black first to make the silver a little brighter. It's awaitinga clearcoat to help the decals go on easier. Chassis painted with Tamiya's TS-29 and TS-30. Exhaust tips were painted with a mix of Tamiya's acrylics and then brushed on a semi-gloss lacquer. Waiting to put in interior parts and wiring. There's not a whole lot to the interior of this car just like the real car.

Got some work done on the small internal parts. Got the body and chassis primed. Had a small issue with the rear exhaust. I chipped off a piece so I decided to replace both exhaust tips with aluminum tubing that I tapered on the inside.

I don't believe that kit is Quick Skins. It's probably for BHP Enterprises. Joe does all of the masters for him.

Excellent job on the Skyline. One of the better body styles in my opinion. Very nice work on the decals. I know Tamiya decals can be a little fussy, especially the florescent ones.

As far as I know, Joe only did about 60 to 100 of these kits. As of now, this is his only kit on the market. A couple of years back at the NNL West he had the master for an M3 GTR (late '90's to early 2000 model year). Hopefully he'll be having that kit out. I'm good friends with Mark at MS Hobbies. That's usually where I get my Quick Skins stuff from. I would try contacting him. He still has it listed on his web site. http://www.mshobbies.com/servlet/Categories?category=QUIKSKINS+RESIN The kit comes in a plain white box. As for the paint scheme it's overall black with a silver bib in between the wheel wells and the nose. There's really not a whole lot of pictures of this car since it only ran for one year and went through many variations; usually dealing with the rear wing and the front arrow package. I think the best it did was a second. In all the other races, it didn't show well.

Excellent job on the kit. Are you planning to bring this to the NNL West?

The kit is from Quick Skins. It's based off the Ford Probe GTP. Then Jack Roush got hold of the car and put in a V8 instead of the Probe's Turbocharged I-4. Car really wasn't known for much of anything except that it was a very different looking car from the other prototypes. The kit is very nicely cast; hardly needed any cleanup. Should be a rather straight forward build. Quick Skins is known for good quality kits and I'm glad to see them back in business. This is his first new kit in several years. I hope you enjoy following my build. Rims painted with TS-12 and Alclad Polished Aluminum (airbrushed).

I've had this happen to me a couple of times with resins. It usually occurs on older kits that haven't been stored properly. Though on the last couple of new kits that I've had, it's happened. After I've done the cleaning of the resin, I let it air dry for a day. Then wipe it off with denatured alcohol. A friend of mine who is a resin caster told me about doing it that way. He said that because the material used to clean can pull an oily substance from the resin if the cleaning product has not been cleaned off all the way. By letting it rest, you give it enough time for it to evaporate. And by wiping it with alcohol, you take off the rest of the contaminants before priming. I've had really good results by doing it that way.

Thanks for the comments. Would really like to get another one of these kits and try to do the U. S. version.