Brendan

Thanks for everyone's comments. I was able to get this kit from a good friend at the Sacramento NNL. You can find the kits every once in a while on EBay, but the prices are usually rather high and the kits are usually not in good shape due to the fact that the people didn't take care of them properly. As for price, I've seen them as cheap as $50 and all the way up to $200. They are no longer in production, but there is a possibility that Quick Skins might come back into business. Best of luck in your search for it. It took me over 6 years to find mine.

This is a Quickskins kit of the Audi A4 Touring Car. This is the car that was eventually banned from racing because it was so dominant due to the all-wheel drive system. Eventually they banned all-wheel drive cars from the BTCC. I would highly recommend this kit if you can find it. I didn't have many fit issues except for the front splitter, which needed some coaxing to go into place on one side. Did have a small issue with the decals of the Audi Rings. The decals were extremely brittle and cracked a little bit. I was able to touch it up with some TS-8 paint. I added (P/E) seat belts, tow hooks, bonnet pins and window clips. I used lead wire on the internals for the wiring. Paints used on this car were Scale Finishes Imola Yellow and Aluminum Silver; Tamiya's TS-8, TS-13 and TS-29. Decals were cleared with Floquil Crystal Cote. Rims painted with Alclad Polished Aluminum. Wanted to say thank you to Scale Finishes for being able to match the paint for me. Feel free to comment.

Finishing up on the kit. Not much left to do. Got the windows in and the dashboard. Small little issue with the window. The bag that was storing the vacform windows etched itself onto the glass. Tried several different things to rub it out but no luck. It's not too noticeable. The hardest part was trying to get the front airdam on. Really tight fit. Next time you see the kit, it will be in the Under Glass Section. Thanks for following along.

Outstanding job on the Peugeot. Decals and paint look great.

I used the saw blades all the time. They're great for scribing panel lines and cutting through pieces. They are thin and you can bend them if you're not careful. They will also cut all the way to the bone if you slip! Which I have done. I've never found a need to use them with a handle. Here's link to Strada Sports for Crazy Modeler. About halfway down the page, you'll see a couple of sets of their saws. They are definitely worth getting just to have around because you never know when you might need them. I use mine quite often. http://www.stradasportsstore.com/crazy%20modeler.html

I use red sable brushes all the time for acrylics. The trick is to clean them with alcohol and not water. Then dry them after use. But it is true that the sables will lose their snap if used in water. I have several red sable brushes that I've had for over 10 years and are as good as when I first bought them. Make sure you buy the best that you can afford. It will pay off in the end.

Got the rest of the decals on. Shot the clear coat this morning. I have to touch up some of the black trim all around the windows since some of the clear went underneath the mask. Decals before clear. Roll cage was fitted and seat belts attached. Found a mistake I made on the rear wing. Some reference pictures showed the black part of the Gurney Lip going to the mid point on the back side of the rear wing. Got it painted last night.

Awesome job. Wish I'd seen this earlier. I would have followed along sooner. Nice job on the P/E. I was wondering the same thing about the blue being too dark. But it looks good with the decals.

Here's some interesting race car chassis names. Argo Chevy Intrepid (Yes, before the Dodge ever came out and Dodge was sued over this.) Fabcar Grid Kudzu (How would you like to be named after an edible leafy plant?) March Spice Tiga This is just a short list of the many odd names.

Been working on the decals for the last three days. Trying to get the rings to lay down is making want to pull out my hair. And there's not much left. The decals are just old and brittle. Having to touch up quite a bit so far with some TS-8 paint. But I'm chugging along with it. The next big hassle I see is putting on the number plates on the sides of the car. Have to go over a little bit of a bump in the middle. Going to be using a lot of Micro Sol. Hopetully that's going to help. Foiled in the front headlights and side markers.

This is what I'm pretty much known for. Pretty much building race cars and building quickly. I appreciate your interest in my work.

To let you know, you're going to have to modify the front axle and the rear axle to make the brakes and rim fit. Here's a picture of what I did to mine. But you might have to trim it down a little more because the plastic kit is, I believe, narrower than the resin transkit.

What I've done in the past is to let the sun bleach it. Kind of the same thing you do with old decals. Then I usually put Future over the top of it. It usually doesn't get all the yellow out but it tones it down enough.

Shot the black trim today. Had a couple of small leaks through the tape. But they were easily cleaned up. Still need to shoot a semi-gloss on the inside. Then I'll start laying down the decals.

The kit is made by Doyusha and it is 1/12 scale. It is a BMW 3.0 CSL. It is part of The Circuit Wolf Collection. There were about 6 different cars in the collection. I built mine a long time ago and turned it into the Jagermeister that I took from the Tamiya's 934 Porsche. I do have a copy of the instructions if you would like me to photocopy them. The instructions are in Japanese.

Like Ismael said, without seeing pictures, we can't tell how deep the scratches are. A trick that I use is Tamiya's Basic Putty thinned out with denatured alcohol. It turns it more into a liquid and will be able to flow into the scratches more easily. Might have to do this multiple times and then sand smooth. Another thing you could do is take thin Super Glue and put a couple of drops onto the scratches and the capillary action will pull it into the scratches. Then sand it smooth.

Everything looks great. Everything that I have for references looks dead on. Outstanding job with the decals as well. I just wish Tamiya would make these kits with full engine detail.

It's not that wheels would look bad. It's the sidewall of the tires is so tall. I would go with a slightly lower rim and tire profile. I think it would give it a more aggressive stance. I'm sending you a PM with a picture of some rims that I have if you would like them.

I usually use Blue Tack because it's inexpensive. Around here there's not many places to get silly putty. I couldn't why it wouldn't work since they're basically the same thing. Another thing I've had good success with is using Elmer's White Glue and painting it on the areas that I don't want painted with a brush. And putting on several layers. It seems to work really well for me. It doesn't harm the paint. If you can paint it on straight enough, it will give you a straight line. I've also used it for sealing tape seams up so the paint can't bleed through. The downside is you have to wait a day for it to cure before you can paint.

I live in an area where there's a lot of fishing and fly tying. That's how I discovered it. You can pick it up at any place that carries fly tying materials. Also look at Cabela's and that type of place. They will carry it. It's meant for weighting flies for fishing. Here's a picture of the spools that I have. They do make them in different sizes.

Turned out to be a half way decent morning. After prepping the body last night, I was able to shoot the Scale Finishes paint on it this morning. Also was able to put in the small components into the chassis as well as wires and seat belts. Body in Aluminum Silver before the Clear Coat. Still need to paint the bottom runners a semi-gloss black. And then it's ready for decals. Taped off the wing and painted the Gurney Lip semi-gloss black. Side mirrors painted in Imola Yellow and Cleared. Used Elmers White Glue to mask off the yellow so the black could be painted. Turned out pretty well, I thought. Bare Metal Foil for the mirror. Use lead wire for the wiring. Took paint very well and you can bend it to the shapes you want.

Thanks for the comments. Danny, you can buy the Mountain Dew decals separately from the transkit. Here's a link to M & S Hobbies. Also Strada Sports carries them as well. If they don't have them in stock, just email them and they can get them for you. http://www.mshobbies.com/servlet/Categorie...BHP+ENTERPRISES http://www.stradasportsstore.com/BHPEnterprises.html

Looking pretty good. Should be interesting when you get it all done. You're not going to have any problems painting over the decals of the older kit, are you? I might have a set of wheels that might work for you. I'll have to check. The 956 and the 962 wheels might be a little small in diameter for the car. I'm working on an Audi right now myself. It's the A4 BTCC.

Squadron's Putty is no good. You end up having to cut it with lacquer thinner to make it spreadable and it shrinks too much when dried. I would suggest just throwing out the putty. For small scratches, I use Tamiya's Basic Putty. For filling gaps like you have, I use a two-part polyester putty. Companies like Bondo and Evercote are good brands. You could also use Gap Filling Super Glue.

Here's the condition of my work bench. The Audi is being worked on. This is the clean section. You don't want to see the other part of my workroom. Pictures taken Sunday morning before being touched.