Brendan

White primer will work better. But gray does as well. I would also lay down a yellow coat before I laid down the gold. It will make the gold brighter.

I'm with El Destructo Inc. I would go with Tamiya's TS-26 white. If you had an airbrush, MCW makes the correct colors for the car. The paint is an acrylic lacquer.

The car you had pictures of is a completely different car. That car is the Ford Probe GTP. Quick Skins made a resin kit of it and if you can find it, it's a good kit. The kits he's doing is the Mustang GTP with the 4-cylinder turbo.

I shoot clear over BMF all the time when I use it. It does dull it a little bit but not a lot. I've used lacquer, acrylic, and enamel clearcoats. They all seem to work fine. The acrylics and the lacquers seem to work better though.

The Saturn my family owns is either a '92 or a '93 and we gave it the nickname of "the car that won't die"...I've really been impressed with it. Of course, it's been well taken care of. I use it every day to take my dog everywhere for his walks. It still gets decent gas mileage...about 28 to 30 mpg and that's driving in city.

He's basically getting all the makes of the Saturn brand. It does not matter where the chassis came out of; he still gets the right to use the designs. He does not get a plant, though. So he will have to outsource that to a facility to actually build the cars. He gets also part of the dealerships which is a good thing for him since he has a deal with Mercedes to sell the Smart Car. Would be a way for him to get those cars out to more places. What I think he might be doing is setting it up to go into NASCAR since Dodge is supposedly pulling out. This way if he is a manufacturer he would be able to sell that body style to other teams. But this is only speculation and would be a smart move on his part.

You're not thinking of a show called The Grid? It's usually right before the Formula 1. It's a highlight show of all the racing. It has the guy from Radio LeMans as the host. They cover all the racing in the US and Europe.

The reason why you don't see the S7's or the MC12's is that the S7's are too hard to set up as well as the motors usually fail on them. And the MC12's do not comply to the regulations to the class. They're too long by about a foot and a half as well as being too wide. As for the P1 Category, the car to look at is the Pescarolo 908 Peugeot. That car when testing was actually faster than the factory car. Of course, that team has a little more leeway on putting modifications on the body. But it will end up being a Peugeot/Audi Battle. Funny thing with the Aston-Martin Squad was that they were sued by Lola for saying that the chassis was an Aston-Martin chassis when it was a Lola. And Lola was going to prevent them from running at LeMans. But it all got squared away in the last couple of months.

Plasti-kote is great stuff. I use it all the time. I also use Duplicolor Primer and Primer Sealer. Depends on what is cheaper at the store at the time. Any automotive lacquer primer will work. Just do light coats slowly building up layers since sometimes the lacguer can etch the plastic. I've only had this happen with some of the newer Revell kits. They changes their plastic to a softer plastic. But if it does happen, it's easy to fix by sanding.

Any clear will work as long as it's not lacquer. I have a tendency to use a lot of Future Floor Polish when I use enamel paints. I'm not a real big fan of the enamels. Try using their acrylic lacguers. They dry quicker and come in more factory colors. Their acrylic clear is really good.

Yes, it does have a motor. Twin-turboed V-8. The Hasegawa kit is the curb side kit.

I own an '04 WRX and the motor in the Revell kit is the exact motor that I have in my car. It is a 2L motor. The only 2.5L motors were the non-turboed and STI that year. The year afterwards they went to the 2.5L. If you also look at the transmission in the Revell kit, it's a 5-speed instead of a 6-speed which the 2.5 were equipped with in the STI. Like said in previous posts, the only other motors I know of were white metal from Japanese manufacturers. They were not cheap. The motor in the kit is nice but the issues I had were the way they mounted the turbo and the intercooler. The turbo should have been a little tighter to the gear box than what they had in the kit. And the intercooler was mounted too far back and at too steep of an angle. It's a good starting point for making a conversion for the other kits.

Here's a picture of my buildup of the Revell WRX STI. The motor in it is not the STI motor, though. It is the 2L (1.9L) engine. The STI is supposed to be a 2.5L with a different intercooler and intake manifold. I don't know about the 3 in 1 kit...if it's the same kit or not. But it is a good kit. Easy to build. Just some small inaccuracies in the interior and on the engine bay. But the body shape is decent.

There really is no best stuff for P/E. If somebody makes the product that you need, you end up using it whether you like it or not. Every company tends to make different things and has different strengths. You end up piece mealing several parts from different companies to get what you want. You might want to look at M&S Hobbies and Stradasports and see what they have for selection of P/E. http://www.stradasports.com/ http://www.mshobbies.com/

You can do it, but you have to bury it under clear. I have done this in the past to fix some small issues that I have on some race cars that I did. I would suggest using Future Floor Polish and put on three coats. Let it dry completely between each coat. Then use a low tac tape like Tamiya and it should work fine. Stay away from the blue painters' tape as it has a tendency to be able to pull up paint if it's not completely cured.

I go to craft stores and places that sell fishing supplies, especially places that sell fly tying supplies as they have more selections of tubings and wire. As for hose clamps, like said in the previous post, BMF works. I also use heating duct tape (aluminum tape) that you can find at any hardward store. It's quite a bit thicker than BMF which I think looks a little more realistic. Then I cut a small piece of wire and glue it on top of the foil to make it look like it has a screw for tightening.

You got a bad batch of bare metal foil. Or it could just be old. I try to buy direct from the manufacturer or buy from a hobby shop that has high turnover of this product. It's a very good product but they've been having some problems. There are other threads on the subject that could be helpful.

I've had good results using K&S metal tubing. You can bend it any which way you want. You can use solder to hold it together or super glue or epoxy. I've also had good luck using Evergreen Styrene.

He's still in business. Talked to him a couple of weeks ago at a show. He's getting ready to release a new Ferrari. As for being able to get in contact with him, I would suggest trying his web site again. He did stop producing car kits for a while. He's just now getting back into producing some car kits on a limited production run. You might want to contact Strada Sports or Island Collectibles and see if they don't have a way of getting hold of him.

Like the people said, they're all over the place in quality. That kit in particular is not very good. As for a non curbside kit, the only one I can think of is the one by Revell that is a street car. I have seen conversion kits for them but they're rather expensive.

I've run into this on a couple of kits on the chrome trees where half of it will be an opaqued plastic and the other part will be a colored plastic. I think it's just whatever they have in the machine at the time they're doing the injections since it doesn't really matter since it's going to have chrome plating over the top.

Stay away from the kit. Not worth the money. You can get the Hasegawa or Tamiya kits which are much better. The only time I ever build a Heller is if that's the only kit available. There's too much work that needs to be done to make them look decent. There's other options out there that are better quality. Too much work has to be done on the Heller kits to get to the quality of the Hasegawa or Tamiya kits, even with the price difference. It's still worth it to buy the more expensive kit.

Aoshima (sp) made some pickups with some surfboards, but I think they were all long boards. The kit that I have is the long board. Another thing you might want to look at is surf shops. A lot of times they have key chains, etc. that might work for your scale.

I built this kit. Didn't run into any fit issues that I can remember off hand. As for the color, I would go with Tamiya's TS-51 (Telefonica Blue or Racing Blue). It is a metallic. I would shoot that over Tamiya's TS-55 (Dark Blue). The reason why people were telling Fujimilover not to use black is cause he was doing lighter colors. The black darkens light colors up significantly and will give you a completely different color. The reason why we're telling you to use a darker color as a base coat is that the color that you're going for is dark. The colors we're suggesting that you use as the final color are a little lighter than the color you are looking for. This is a way to darken them up. I don't know if you have an airbrush but if you do, you can always mix your colors to the desired color you want. Or contact Jameston at Scale Finishes and he would be able to mix up some paint for you. http://scalefinishes.com/

I have driven my two friends' Mustangs...an '06 and an '07...I believe. Both were V6. I personally didn't care for them. One friend likes his car, but would not buy another one. My other friend absolutely hates it. He drove my Subaru and he was going to buy that as his next car. This is just my opinion but there are other cars that are better in the price range of the Mustangs. And are more fun to drive.