Brendan

I don't know if you guys have heard, but Ferrari and Peugeot/Renault have teamed up to run the KERS package on the Peugeot 908 LMP1. Ferrari and Peugeot are trying to get around the rules for Formula 1 about not being able to test. I'm suspecting that several other Formula 1 teams will start doing this with Sports Car Teams as well.

It's skill and a lot of free time! At least I think it's skill. It could be just boredom.

This a kit of Scale Productions Lola T 98/10 Judd. Got this kit for Christmas. (My first finished build for '09) Kit is long out of production. If you can find one, I would highly recommend it. This is one of my favorite Lola chassis, though I wish they would have done it with a different front end. P/E and resin were very nicely done along with the aluminum pieces. The pewter was cleanly cast as well. Had some problems with the decals due to the fact they were stored incorrectly. Ended up becoming very brittle and had a tendency to crack...a lot. Paint was Tamiya's TS-14 decanted and airbrushed and Tamiya's clear over the decals, airbrushed as well. Rims were painted in Alclad Polished Aluminum. Brakes were painted Alclad Steel with different shades of acrylics. Exhaust was painted with Alclad Jet Exhaust and Magnesium. Feel free to comment. Was a fun build. Build link. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=16860 Added antennas and antenna mounts from an after market company in my parts pile. Also added a wind screen that they do not tell you to put on but is on the real car.

Like some of the other people were saying, there is really no good brush-on paint for metal colors. I've had good results airbrushing with them because they seem to lay down thinner. But the best metal paints I've ever seen for brushing is coming out of stuff like War Hammer Miniatures and companies that make paints for them. A lot of their paints are either latex or some other type of paint that is non compatible with other modeling paints. It might be something you might want to look into.

I've done that in the past. But the problem was that these decals were just too old and brittle. And it makes it nearly impossible to use any type of glue to help them stick. Shot the clear coat on last night which will help quite a bit with the decals sticking. It's just one of those things with the older kits and the decals weren't taken care of when stored.

Thanks for the comment. I'm figuring about 14 models for the NNL West plus or minus two. That's if I can get them finished. A lot of the kits I've built have already gone to the customers. I'm still waiting on replacement parts from the manufacturer for two other kits. Who knows if I'll get them done in time.

Chassis put together and decals on the body. Did not have fun placing the decals. They were old, brittle and starting to yellow. Lot of decal solvent used. But they did turn out pretty well. It took me all day yesterday. I mean it in the literal sense. I figured at least 18 hours. The main problems were the silver decals as they did not like to be handled. Need to wash the car and then shoot clear over the decals. Then the kit will be done. Thank you for following along. Will be in the Under Glass Section soon. Added a small radio box on the side of the interior wall that the kit left out. (might be a little hard to see) Also added a hose and connectors to the air jack. The silver decals I figured took me over 4 hours to get into place. (in one sitting) Was a decal that you could not let sit alone. It had to be attended the entire time. The hair dryer didn't help. Finished decals after a long day of work. It's one of those jobs where you start pulling out your hair because of the decals not laying down or they started to crack. Cutting the number was one of the harder things to do for the radiator vent. It started cracking on me as soon as I dipped it in water.

Not to be mean or anything, if you use the search on the top of the page, you can find it quickly. Here's the link. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.p...l=posting+photo I had the same problem trying to post photos when I first started. Hope this helps.

I have used both. And I prefer Photobucket. I've had some major problems with the Fotki. I started with the Fotki site first and then they wanted me to start paying for using their service. And that was within a month of my using it. I immediately switched over to Photobucket and have not had any issues with them. I've been with them for well over a year and have several hundred photos. Plus I find them easier to use for downloading.

Got the interior painted with TS-17 (airbrushed). Should have the decals on in the next couple of days.

Got the car painted. It's in Tamiya's TS-14. I decanted and airbrushed it. I usually have problems trying to lay gloss black down. But this one turned out rather nice, I think. Mirror painted along with bare metal foil for the mirror. Wing and side fins. P/E three-piece wing upright assembled and painted TS-29 (airbrushed). Wheels assembled with brakes.

Modelers is a defunct company. I believe they were bought up by Studio 27. Any of the carbon fiber decals that are made by Studio 27 or Scale Motor Sports are good. And I believe Scale Motor Sports is having a special on their web site now.

The car I wish they would do is this car with a different front end so I can make one of favorite Lolas. It was in the Lotus colors of green and yellow. And it ran on the Lotus twin turboed V-6. Made some of the prettiest noises and chirps you could possibly hear.

Nick, probably won't make it to the NNL East unless my friend Bill or Mark go and they may take it with them to help sell kits at the show. Jim, I figured it out a long time ago but I forgot how I did the color. The guys at the GPMA reminded me how to do it. I've done it with a couple of Tamiya's other transparent colors for the Repsol colors, especially the orange. One of these days I'm going to take all their colors and make a paint chart and show what different combinations you can get from them.

What I've done in the past is use bare metal foil or aluminum foil and take a roller and roll it over a meshed material to get the pattern you desire. Then take the metal or foil and put it very carefully in the position you want and then you can paint over it. It was worked well for me.

Very nice job on the Ferrari. I have the Protar 1/12 scale version somewhere in my closet and should probably dig out. One of my favorite Ferraris because it ran the turbo charged motor.

The kit is a Scale Productions kit; no longer being produced. Was given to me as a Christmas gift. There's not a whole lot to this kit. There were only seven resin pieces and half of them are for the body and chassis. The rest is all pewter, except for the rims, which is machined aluminum. The centers are pewter though. Fairly clean kit. A couple of sink marks that need to be filled in. They designed it in a way that you don't need to fill in the seams as they are natural seams on the actual car for the body parts. (roll bar and air scoop) It will be a simple paint scheme of BLACK! With Motorola markings. Have quite a bit of it done, but still need to work on the body. Rims painted with Alclad polished aluminum. Seat painted in Tamiya's XF-69 NATO Black with a flat lacquer coat. Rotors painted with Alclad Steel. Still need to do detailed painting. Dashboard painted detailed; replaced the kit's steering wheel with one I had in my parts box.

Here's what I have planned. Studio 27: Ferrari F430GT Scuderia Ecosse LM '07 (started and almost finished) Essex RS Spyder LMS 2008 (started) Scale Productions: Lola T 98/10 Judd LM '99 (started) Jimmy Flintstone: Deathmobile 550 Fisher: Sunoco Porsche 917/30 Can-Am And anything else I can get my hands on this year.

Matthew's product is excellent. Probably the best out there. Though it can be little pricey at times. As regard to it being 1/24 scale, there's really no such thing as that in carbon fiber. There's so many different weave patterns on a 1:1 scale car that you're just trying to get the closest that you can get. I've used 1/12 scale on 1/24 scale cars because it was close to how big of a weave pattern I needed for the car.

Hiroboy is a excellent company. You'll have no problem doing business with them. The only thing I'll say is a lot of the products you can get through other sites with less expensive shipping.

Something like this seems to happen every time a new president is taking office. It usually happens more at the state level, though. If I remember correctly, California had something like this for cars that could pass smog. I don't have a problem with people turning their cars in willingly to get credit to buy a new car. That's if the car is not running properly. But most of us know how to take care of our cars and make them run in good condition for a long time.

Shot the red and the florescent red on. It looks pretty close to what I wanted. The guys at the gpma.org really helped me out about getting the right color. (all colors were decanted and airbrushed) Here's some pictures of the car in Tamiya's TS-49. Here it is with Tamiya's TS-36 with the clear coat. And yes, it is supposed to be that florescent of a red. It does hurt the eyes a little. Still need to get the black on the side vents and in around the windows, but I'm going to wait a whilte to get those done. Also going to paint the interior a gloss aluminum.

Shot the white primer down and then laid the pink. Kind of a pepto bismo color. Next will be the TS-49 bright red, followed by TS-36 Florescent red. Need to do some light sanding between coats. Hopefully I'll have the body completely painted in a week or so.

That's one of the reasons I like the tire stencils better. Most of the stencils that I have are from photoetch sets for a specific car. Kevin at Strada Sports has some available, mainly Goodyear. I know there are others out there. Here's a link to Strada Sports, then type in tire stencils in the search box. If you can find the old Modeler's sets, they had a couple of different size stencils, but unfortunately Modeler's is out of business. Another company you could also check is Scale Motor Sports. Every once in a while a company comes out with a whole bunch of tire stencils and you have to get them right when they come out cause they usually sell out rather quickly. http://www.stradasportsstore.com/

This had happened to someone else that I know. He took a product called CLR and put it on a cloth and just wiped it down. I don't know if it would strip paint or not so I'd be careful. Probably putting a acrylic clear or lacguer clear over the top may prevent it from happening. Hope you're able to fix it.