Brendan

Chris, The tire markings are a stencil that I got from the Toyota Eagle builds. I airbrushed Tamiya's flat white over the top of the stencil at low air pressure. It seems to work the best. As for the bump, I only have a couple of good shots of it, but below is the link to the Mulsanne's Corner page. I think I got a pretty good handle on it. I used the ducting from a Subaru that I had leftover parts from and trimmed it down to give me the basic shape. I'll have to fill in the rest with putty and shape it to the desired look. Thanks for the offer though. The problem that I have with it is that it's going from an angled flat piece to several rounded edges. And it also has to connect up with the air scoop. http://www.mulsannescorner.com/JaguarXJR-14-4.html tire stencil The start of the roof bump.

I'm with Harry on this one. I get mine through Harbor Freight. You can get a good nail gun compressor for under $100. Look for one that can hold five gallons. Things I would also look for is a moisture trap off the compressor. And a regulator as well. Also get an inline moisture trap for the air hose for the air brush. Inline moisture trap Moisture trap and regulator off the compressor

Got a little more work done. Did modify some stuff on the interior as well as making electronics boxes. Been spending most of my time trying to figure out how to make the roof bump. Spent well over 6 hours in the past two days trying to figure it out. At this point, getting frustrated. Dashboard; electronic boxes (made from computer chips); driver seat with homemade seatbelts; decals are from my parts box Finished interior shots which I added electronic boxes and wiring as well as a fire extinquisher from my parts box. I don't know why they did not include these in the kit as you can see everything through the window. Also added a shifting linkage to the gear shift. Rear brake lights which I had to add; foiled and painted Tamiya's clear red. Also top view with the chassis and body together. You can see from the picture the two airducts on the roof whici I have to modify. More updates coming.

Try this web site. These are the best shots you're going to get of the car. I doubt you'll be able to find a picture of the car viewed like that. Also try a Google search on ALMS Ford GT or try to contact some of the Ford GT forums. Hope this helps. http://www.angerole.com/Ford%20Mk%207%20ALMS%20GT.htm

Mike, The body is correct as the Bud Light Jag was an ex-works car (Silk Cut). There was some different ducting on the side of the body as well as a different air intake for the engine that you mentioned. They do supply that type of intake in the kit, but it is inaccurate. I'm having to modify it. I need to add a bump like I mentioned above on the roof line to make it more correct. Thank you for the information.

Just started this week on Studio 27's XJR-14 Jaguar. Decent kit. Not a lot of detail on the interior. Body has a lot of flashing which will need to be cleaned. Biggest hangup I see so far is on the roof line. There should be a bump right in front of the two air intakes which I will now have to fabricate. Another mistake is with the instructions. It says this kit has the exhaust out on the side which it does not. It ran out the back of the car. So I have to fill in the two large holes on each side of the car. I have already done quite a bit on the parts and have them painted. This car has a very simple paint scheme, being overall white with red striping. Then a black interior. Here's some pictures of the body and chassis. You'll notice I've already started filling in some of the holes. The gray spot on top of the car is where I'm going to have to make the bump on the roof. Brakes and rims. The rims were rather nice for being pewter. The tire markings are from stencils I had from the Toyotas that I built. Some small photoetch pieces that needed to be bent into shape which was not easy, especially the fuel covers. Will have some more work done in the next couple of days. Have to get back to trying to figure out how to make that bump on the roof.

Very nice build. A couple of weeks ago they had this on Top Gear with two other Italian cars. The three guys on the show raced and tested the cars. I think this car ended up having like 83 horse power when they tested it.

Is it the Davy Jones driven car or the Raoul Boesel driven car? When cars were actually prototype cars. I prefer the Budweiser car personally though.

I don't have any pictures of the chassis, but the car is off the production line for its chassis. Most of the modifications are in the body and the suspension layout. Then some modifications to the motor. The way the GT2 rules are is that they can't do too much modifications to the chassis. Hope this helps.

964 cup car 1992-94 ?

Both Scale Finishes and MCW will mix up paints for you. Send an email with a picture to them and if possible, the paint code. They'll try to match the color for you. I know Jameston from Scale Finishes will do his darnest to try to match it for you. Even if he can't, he tries to find a close color for it. I've had really good experiences with his paints and with his service. He's the guy I use mainly for my paint supplies.

Sorry, no luck. All the paints I have are way too blue. You might want to try looking up some Ford colors because Aston Martin used to paint a lot of the cars with a Ford paint. It looks pretty close to Windveil Blue Metallic. It looks like the Aston Martin has a little more silver to it. Sorry, I couldn't help.

I might have a close match to that paint. I'll have to look in my storage bins. You might want to contact Scale Finishes or MCW. Both of them can mix up paints. http://scalefinishes.com/ http://www.mcwautomotivefinishes.com/paint/catalog.html

The funny thing is the Corvette is still being developed. They were talking to all the other GT2 teams and they were worried that the Corvette was just going to come in and dominate like they did in GT1. Be interesting to see if they put the 5.5 L motor in for the Petit.

Instead of using masking tape, why not try athletic tape. It's a cloth material and it can take acrylic paint very well. It also comes in all different colors. Hockey shops would carry it; also most sporting goods places. I use it for making seat belts. Hope this helps.

I'm in agreement with Bob Downie. If you have an airbrush, the best thing to do is decant the Tamiya paint and shoot it with an airbrush. I have really good results with Tamiya's clear, but I put it on before the black dries so it's a wet on wet paint finish. Here's a picture of my Lola race car that I used Tamiya's black on. Tamiya's Black with Tamiya's Clear...wet on wet painted. Decals applied; second coat of clear, not buffed. Finished kit with light polishing and buffing.

Go to an automotive store and get some etching primer. Spray that down and then spray the normal auto primer over the top. Then put down the color.

The aluminum is a semi-gloss and should have a bit more of a gray tinge to it. The silver is a gloss paint. Make sure you mix the both paints thoroughly as they will change color and start to look alike. Hope this helps.

I don't know of any tutorials, but what I do is just slide on the fitting and put a metal peg into the surface I'm going to attach the braided line to and put a drop of CA on the peg. Both companies are outstanding. I go with whatever one is the cheapest. For a 90 degree fitting, just use metal wire and bend it to the shape you want. There are also resin 90 degree bends available from Strada Sports (I believe). I'm not a big fan of the metal braided line. I found a good source of nylon braided line that you can paint any color you want. Just make sure to use acrylic paints. It's what I used on my Mazda RX-7 race car. You can pick up the line at any fly tying shop (fishing). It's used for making loops in flies. It's also a lot cheaper than the metal line and comes in different diameters.

The model car paints are formulated for plastics. They are also meant for multiple coats whereas the hardware store brand paints are meant for one coat. If you're going to be using lacquer that are inexpensive, look at Duplicote or Plasticote (automotive lacquers). These will need an automotive primer first. These paints lay down very similar to the model paints.

The kits are buildable but not really worth it. Unless it's something you really want, I would just save your money.

What type of paint is it? I use a product called Scalecote II. That will strip off most paint, but it can damage resin if you're not careful. Other stuff I use is 70 to 90% alcohol which takes care of most of the acrylic paints. Some other stuff I've used is citrus based cleaning products (organic cleaners) and that can strip some of the paint as well without ill effects on the resin.

The color looks like Listerine Green. It's a color that BMW used to run in the British Touring Cars. I have a formula for mixing it using Tamiya paints. But I would have to look it up. Let me know if you want it.

There are quite a few Ferrari Reds. It has changed throughout the years. If you're looking for the true Ferrari Red is the actual color of the Italian flag. As for paint codes, I would have to look them up. Companies I use for getting Ferrari Reds are Scale Finishes and he's on this forum. I also use MCW. He can get you the later colors. I've also used Cobra Colors but they're no longer in business. Hope this helps.

I would suggest just sending him an email. It never hurts to ask. I've done business with him a couple of times. I've always had a good experience dealing with him.