Brendan

Awesome job on the car. I love the older Indy cars when they were actually making innovations in the racing. Is this the same one that was in Sacramento?

Thanks for everyone's comments. The thing that makes me laugh is that the paint scheme is green, white and red yet the color of the soda is kind of yellowish. So I don't know how they get the green, white and red for a paint scheme. Curt, let me know when you get started on the kit. As there are some tricks that I can share with you in regard to getting the roll cage and fire wall low enough so everything fits properly. In regard to the motor, if you put it in, everything fits too high and hits the body. I do know of some people who are actually opening up the hood and putting in the motor and making it a full detail kit. I think that Gregg is one of the people who is trying to do that.

Was working on this kit while building the Jag. This should have been finished a long time ago. Ran into some issues with the paint. Ended up spraying it the wrong color of green. So I had to start all over. Had to wait for the right green to come in. This is the third transkit I've built from BHP. All of his transkits use the Revell Monogram Mustang or Camaro kit. On this particular kit, I used the Whistler Mustang. Excellent casting on the body and small pieces. The minimal flashing was easily removed. The rims for this kit are outstanding. Decals are nicely done, but very thin and easily torn. I only used setting solution to help the decals lay down flat. Would highly recommend buying BHP transkits. The paints used were Tamiya's TS-26 (white), TS-35 (green) and a mix of TS-8 (6 parts) and TS-49 (3 parts) and 5 drops TS-44 for the red for the chassis. It was the closest that I could mix up. All were air brushed. Feel free to comment. Major modifications to the Monogram roll cage to fit in the new resin roll cage. Along with the modifications to the axles to fit the disc brakes.

Taped up the roll cage and the chassis. Got it ready for a shot of semi-gloss black. The tape up job took me about two hours. I wish I had some blue tack. It would have made my life easier. Turned out very nice after removing the tape. Looked at some other photos and it looks like I need to shoot everything with a semi-gloss as it's not as bright as the outside body. Will end up doing that today...if it doesn't rain.

Another foreign car. I think we're going to have to change your nickname. Excellent job on the BMW.

Very cool! I don't know how you do it, being able to fit all the components into a body like that. All I can say is I hope the guy doesn't crash it. The crack that you say that you did is not even noticeable. Excellent job on the repair.

Sure, I'll drive out there...if you want to pay for my gas. We need to get you started on building a couple of kits like this.

Sorry for the late reply. Strada Sports sells the wheel and disc brakes for $15. Here's the link to the web site. http://www.stradasportsstore.com/BHPEnterprises.html They are worth the money. Just take the time cleaning the resin as they can be a little fragile. You use the stock wheels that come with the kit, but you have to open up the middle to make the new rims fit.

Thanks for everyone's comments. The main fuss that I had with the wing was the first time I tried to put it together, I broke it. But once I got that first wing element in and had both end plates attached, it made it a little easier to build. The hard part is not scratching the paint. The other issue I ran into was all four wing elements were not of equal length. That's one of the first things I checked before I even painted. Flying isn't going to be the problem for me. It's the drive down. It's only 440 miles but if you've ever driven on the coast much it is windy, uphill and downill. And things have a tendency to shift in the car. That's why I always bring a repair kit with me to the show. I won't have as many cars there this year as I did last year. But it will be good to see you again.

Funny thing is I'm just now finishing up on a BHP resin Mustang TransAm transkit and I'm using the Whistler Mustang as the donor. Good start on the kit. If you're looking for a set of rims like you have in the picture of the actual car, BHP makes a set. Here's a picture of mine put together. And also if you need an extra set of decals, I have an extra set for the Whistler car.

Finally got it done. It's a Studio 27 kit. Very nicely casted. Although they left some stuff out for the IMSA version. I needed to correct the roof line as well as fill in the side exhausts. The side mirrors I used from Tamiya's XJR-9 Jaguar kit. The Studio 27 ones were too large. The interior of the car was rather sparse so I added some electronic boxes as well as some decals to make it stand out a little more. I did run into some difficulty with the rear wing; ended up breaking the lower wing element. They cut the mounting holes too deep which made it very fragile. But once the wing was assembled, it's one solid hunk of metal. Paints used were Tamiya's TS-26 (white), TS-8 (red) and TS-29 (semi-gloss black). Decals were cleared with Floquil Crystal Cote. I would recommend this kit although the body is not very accurate for the IMSA version, but it would make a nice Silk Cut version that ran over in Europe. Feel free to comment. This car didn't have much success in the U. S. as a Jaguar, but later found life as a Mazda. And then had some great success as a Joest Open Top Porsche shown in the picture below winning Le Mans several times.

Got the package in the mail Monday and it was the paint I ordered from Scale Finishes. Shot the chassis and roll cage. Got the body in primer. There's a couple of areas I need to touch up on the body before I paint it. Lots of small pin holes that need to be filled in. Scale Finishes paint: Aluminum Silver and Imola Yellow...both Audi colors. I really like the paint. Chassis and roll cage in silver, but waiting for the gloss coat. Still need to do some detail painting for the chassis. Also half the roll cage will be painted black.

I saw this clip on G4 Attack of the Show. They have a thing called Around the Net and they show the top 5 of the day. And then they went onto a big spiel on how women shouldn't drive.

I would suggest contacting MRC. They are the distributor for Aoshima in the U. S. Explain your problem. They should give you a new body. Or at least tell you how to get a new body. Here's the link to their web site. On the bottom is the contact and telephone number. http://www.modelrectifier.com/

Awesome job on the kit. It gives you the perfect line to put the tape so you can do a two-tone paint scheme. I also had problems with the mold lines. I thought I had them all cleaned up and shot it with some primer and they came right back on me. I ended up using putty.

Got the wing together last night. Took me about 3 hours. Kind of a pain in the butt; ended up having to pin the end plates into the wing element. Once both sides were done on the bottom element, it was kind of a tight fit to get in the other elements. Once I got it all together, it's one sturdy piece of metal. And also extremely heavy. I am a little bit worried that the P/E wing mount might not be able to support the weight. Did have a little issue when gluing in the pins and scratching the end plate. Need to to touch it up with some paint and do a light sanding and then reshoot the clear. Hoping to get that done today. The kit should be complete in a couple of days. Next time you see it, it will be in the Under Glass Section. Thanks for following.

George, It's a Tamiya Mitsubishi GTO Twin Turbo No.24108. http://www.greatmodels.com/~smartcart/cgi/...em_num=TAM24108

Window, body and chassis are together. Extremely tight fit with the window. Ended up having to trim it down more. But once it's in place, you almost don't need any glue to hold it in. The P/E wiper blade wasn't even close to being the right size. Ended up going into my parts box to find one that would fit. Had no problems fitting the body and chassis together. Used a little bit of Epoxy along with the six screws to hold it in place. The P/E sill plates were kind of a pain to put in since they were a little long. The front wing needed to be sanded on the ends as it was a very tight fit. It looks good when in position.

Thanks for the comment. The two-toned just makes it stand out better than just one solid color. Certain cars look good with a paint job like this. I, too, have driven the Dodge version of this car. A friend of mine had it back when he was in high school. The unfortunate thing was that he was rear ended on the freeway and got slammed into two other cars. All because an old lady wasn't looking where she was going. It was a fun car to drive while he had it.

Ismael, This is a Nissan, not a Corvette. Very nicely done. Beautiful job on the paint. Scale Finishes?

Picked this kit up for $8 and built it as something to get me going after frustration with another kit. Decals were terrible; just too old and brittle. Used Cobra Colors Windveil Blue Metallic and Tamiya's AS-12. Took me about 2 and a half weeks to complete. Originally I planned to paint it silver, but liked the blue and silver combination. If you can find the kit, pick it up. It's a fun build. Usually you can find them for under $20.

Excellent job on the Volvo. Turned out better than the one I did. I've done both the sedan and the Estate when they were new. The decals were bad then as well. Part of the reason was they had to put so many layers of color which makes the decal hard and brittle. I know your pain. Good kits if you can find them.

They have plenty of drivers. They need a new motor. They cracked the oil pan in the last race and had some internal problems.

Thanks for the links. A friend of mine just sent me a couple of interior shots of the car. There's really not a whole lot to the interior of these cars. Everything's a different shade of black or silver. It does give me a clearer picture of where some of the wires lead to.

It's just old resin. I think it's over ten years old??? I've had other resin do this. I usually don't have any problem painting. Might need a little more sanding and primer.