Brendan

Very nicely done. Get some more pictures up when you get a chance. Love to see everything else. You never know what you're going to get with MFH. I've had some of the kits that were really nice and some that were absolutely terrible. The last couple of kits I've gotten through them I've absolutely loved.

If you need pictures of the Corvettes, let me know since I was at the track when they were racing.

This is what I've done this weekend. From the reference pictures people have sent me, the interior of this car is completely wrong. I'm not going to do too much to it. Most of the modifications that I'm going to do are to the roll cage and to the pedal arrangements. But a lot of the stuff you're not going to be able to see so I don't plan to bother with it. The big hangup right now is the body. The plugs they give to fill in the holes do not fit very well. And in some cases are too shallow so I'll have to use a lot of filler. Rims are in Alclad Polished Aluminum and fire bottle in Alclad Chrome. I finished painting the roll cage and noticed that I needed a bar for the seat belt attachments so I need to repaint the roll cage. The disc brakes I modified with photoetch for the rotor surface that I had in my parts bin. They decided to not have a photoetch piece in the kit which makes no sense to me. Here are a couple of pictures of the rest of the parts I had painted.

Thanks for the pictures. I'll put them to good use. From the pictures you have of the electronic boxes, Studio 27 has incorrectly sized them for the kit.

Thanks for the photos. Now do you have any of the two electronic boxes on the rear fire wall on the passenger side? These instructions are terrible for giving what color things are supposed to be. I have found only one picture of the engine bay and that was from the Team's Web Site. And it didn't show much. Spent the last 3 hours airbrushing. Everything on this car is some shade of aluminum. Will get pictures up hopefully by tomorrow. I haven't even touched the body yet.

I have had problems with DupliColor doing the same thing. A friend of mine told that as soon as you spray down the base coat, let it sit for maybe 10 minutes and then shoot the clear over the top. It seems to work with the cars I used DupliColor on.

If anybody has any photos of the interior or engine bay of the car, would really appreciate it. All the cars are essentially the same on the interior. Right now the only thing I really don't like about the kit is that I have to fill in five huge holes on the front of the car. They give you plugs for the holes but the plugs don't fit that well. I know the reason why they did it. It maximizes the use out of the body. But the cars that ran with those openings are from 2008.

Started on Studio 27 F430 kit. The car is the #87 from Le Mans 2007. I decided to get this version of the car instead of the Risi car because I figured more people would have that version built. This one I like because it has the Scottish flag. First impressions...the kit is very nicely casted. Minimal flashing with some small pinholes on the bottom. There are only 3 resin pieces out of the entire kit. The rest is pewter. I've already spent several hours cleaning and prepping the body and pewter pieces. Here are some pictures of what I've done so far. Here are some pictures of the pewter parts and primer. Here's a picture of the roll cage put together from four pieces. Some tweaking has to be done to make it fit the body and the chassis correctly. Also a picture of the dashboard which is a little disappointing since there is not a lot of detail. I hope to add detail later. Will get more up as I go along.

It's not uncommon at all. The better manufacturers such as Tamiya or Fujimi are usually more accurate, but cost quite a bit more. Anywhere between $30 and $80 for a 1/24 or 1/25 scale. Revell has gotten much better in recent years with the accuracy. But no kit is going to be 100% accurate. That's why you see so many people coming out with transkits (resin) and so many people cutting up the cars to fix the problems. That's how you build your skills up by fixing all the problems done by the manufacturer.

The hobby shop guy is right in a sense that you don't need primer. But if you're sanding and filling, you do. You're better off getting into the habit of priming plastic no matter what. It makes for better adhesion of the paint to the plastic. I always wet sand even if it's bare plastic because it keeps the sandpaper clean. Let us know how you do with the build. And get some pictures up so we can follow along.

This was not an uncommon thing where I used to work. We would get in a new shipment and the price of that shipment would be higher than the ones we had in stock. So all the prices were changed to the higher price. (Capitalism) It always rather irked that they didn't split the difference. Of course, I had to go out and change all the prices on the old stock.

Awesome job on the carbon fiber. I thought I read somewhere that this car crashed, caught on fire and burned to the ground. It was on an online article somewhere.

I got two new kits today. Both are Studio 27. One is the Porsche RS-Spyder Essex Le Mans 2008 and the other is a Ferrari F430 GT "Scuderia Ecosse" #87 Le Mans 2007. I picked them up through M & S Hobbies. Would definitely recommend doing business with Mark. http://www.mshobbies.com/servlet/StoreFront I will be doing a Workbench build on the Ferrari at some point.

I hope that's not what the car is going to look like! It is one ugly car! Are you sure it's not going to be a Daytona Prototype?

The R15 is going to be an open top car. No coupe yet. But there is a rumor that the Accura LMP1 car will be able to be a open top or a close top car. There are some pictures of the car being tested at Sebring as an open coupe car. But Accura is not saying much about what they're doing.

Audi has announced they will not be running the R10 next season, but they will have a brand new car...the R15 TDI. It is supposed to be a big leap from the R10. The car will be debuting at Sebring for the race. Here's a couple of links. No pictures yet. http://www.autosport.com/news/report.php/id/72280 http://www.americanlemans.com/News/Article.aspx?ID=5037

Thanks for everyone's comments. This was done as a favor for M & S Hobbies. He needed some built for Mr. Guerney and the drivers. And I was very happy to build the kits for them. It's a very fun kit, even after doing as many as I have. If anybody gets one of these kits and needs any information, let me know.

I will be going. As of now, I believe I have nine cars; maybe a couple more if I can get them finished. That's down from my usual 14 or so that I usually bring. It's been a slow year for me.

I just built them like an assembly line. Most of the detail stuff is on the body and the rest you can hardly see. I'm supposed to be building more Toyota for another customer...around 20 I believe. That's when I'll start pulling out my hair.

Maybe an R35 next for you? Very nice job on the car. I did both Calsonic and this car. Both fun builds. Awesome job on the interior. The stuff you build always gets me excited.

Very nicely done on the Ferrari. Motor nicely detailed and wired, along with the heat shielding under the hood. I am with Chris, though, in that the panel lines are a little too dark. That's an area I often have problems with. I'm always worried I'm going to mess up the finish.

I thought my old '79 Honda Civic was small. I'd be afraid to be hit by someone if I was driving that. Nice job on the build. One suggestion, though, you should paint the front grill. Love the color.

I use rubbing alcohol or denatured alcohol to remove CA glue. It removes it off fingers and plastic, but it can sometimes dull the finish on the plastic. Usually I just clear coat it again. Hope this helps.

A couple of things come to my mind. If the gentleman bought a copy or print of the picture, he could post those pictures because he paid for them. Another thing is that a lot of pictures fall under public domain where as soon they're put up on a web site or sharing site, anybody can use them. Also if the person does not protect his copyright, it will fall under public domain, e.g. by filing suits he is protecting his copyright. This area is really tricky and the law has not caught up to the times. This is from what I understand from others who have answered this question on another forum. When I send pictures to Strata Sports and M&S Hobbies, I always say they may use them however they like to help them sell product. I catch my photos up on other people's sites all the time. I always feel that if it helps them, let them go ahead and use them. I could care less about the credit.

Clay, I do paint jobs like these all the time. It's not as difficult as it looks. A couple of ways you would do this. Do what the gentleman did or you could photocopy the decals and make a stencil out of the photocopy and transpose it to tape. I would spray the yellow down first and then tape the areas you need to be yellow and spray the purple. That way you won't have the bleed through of the purple going through the decals. It's time consuming but it works great. The biggest issue I see is trying to find a yellow to match the decal. Hope this helps.