Brendan

You are correct. But it did start and did finish at Laguna Seca. They had two cars there, but the second car did not race. Both cars had some major issues with the fuel air mixture and they couldn't produce any power. The number 10 car liked to spray the crowd with diesel fuel as it went by. The GT2 cars were faster than it through the corners. But it did have quite a bit of speed at the end of the straight. Faster than the Penskes and the Accuras. Once they get the bugs worked out, it should be a pretty fast car. Had a real interesting conversation with the Japanese driver. Was very willing to show off the car.

Here's one for Nick F40. Maker of Chassis, Make of the Motor, Builder of the Motor. And name the material that's on the back panel that's a light tan color. And it's not carbon fiber.

It's nice work, but a little overpriced. Here's how I would break it down. $150 kit $500 Scale Motor Sports parts $6000 Labor @ $30 per hour $300 Paint/supplies I come up $6,950 for the model. I figured he threw down another $1000 for profit. But the buy it now for $12,000 is an absolute joke, even though 10% is going to a charity. I could see someone buying this for about $5,000 but that's a stretch. This is just my opinion, though.

I use Elmer's white glue. It's essentially the same thing as Liquid Mask. As for the road grime, use Elmer's White Glue and dirt from outside and make it into a paste and brush it on.

Out of a 4 hour race, they had about 2 hours of yellow and about 2 hours of actual racing. On top of that, they had a new Volkswagen V10 Diesel running and spraying the crown with diesel fuel as it went by. So yes, it was a good race.

Got back yesterday about 2 p.m. Having a hard time getting some of my pictures uploaded. Was not able to get too many good shots of the Ferraris in the paddock. A lot of areas were blocked off. Here's a couple of shots of what I have.

To get a better red finish, lay down a coat of pink first. That's what I do whenever I'm painting cars red. Makes the red look better. Leaving for the races tomorrow. Should be back late Sunday. Hopefully I'll have some good pictures.

Thanks for thinking about us. Unfortunately, I have several in some sort of shape, either built, being built, or being super detailed.

You rang.

Google search F430 GT3. That is essentially what the Challenge car is. The fuel fillers are in the same position as the racing cars that you see in the ALMS. If you can wait till after this weekend, I'll be taking pictures at Laguna Seca and I can get some pictures of the fuel filler. Hope this helps.

I usually soak my airbrushes in lacquer thinner. But I remove anything rubber or plastic out of them. Then I let them soak for a day. CSC should remove acrylic paints with no problem. But I just find it easier to use thinner.

The sputtering of the paint would be more to the fact that you have an air leak in the air brush. Would also explain the air bubbles blowing back into the paint cup. I'm not too familiar with the Badgers, but I have fixed them for other people. My suggestion would be to recheck all the fittings. Hook your air brush up to the compressor and take some soapy water and run it along any seam of the air brush to see if there are any bubbles coming up. That's where the leak would be coming from. If that's okay, it's probably the bearing. Hope this helps.

That's not true. There is a GT3 version of an Audi R8. It's a race spec car which has fender flares and front facia as well a wing and rear facia. And there are several companies now working on body kits for it. What Jantrix said is how I remold the body for cars. Build it up in layers and shape as you go. http://www.leftlanenews.com/audi-unveils-r...ady-r8-gt3.html http://www.autoblog.com/2008/08/27/audi-de...s-r8-gt3-racer/

It will be a big mistake is GM decides to do this. Look what happened to Mercedes. They used to be one of the best cars you could buy until they took over Chrystler. Ever since then, they've had nothing but problems with their cars. So I'm sure the same thing would happen to GM if they did this. I can't see it going through, personally, just because the trade commission would not let it go through. It would give GM too big of a stake in the U. S. automotive market, essentially creating a monopoly in the market.

Because you're stepping down from a large tube to a small tube and because you're compressing air to a smaller hose, you'll get moisture. And with the trap on the hose itself, it will trap the excess moisture the other trap didn't get. You want to try to get the trap as close as you can to your air brush. Most inline traps will tell you to get it within 6 inches. Hope this makes sense. It's just one of those things it's just better to have.

You want to get two. One that is off the regulator and one that is called an "inline moisture trap" that is connected to the air hose. Sorry about the blurry pictures. My camera batteries are dying. Moisture trap regulator combination...can pick it up at any decent hardware store. This is a Pasche inline moisture trap.

I would stay away from it. It does not have a very good reputation here in the U. S. There are just too many issues with the car. Also had some very scary results in the crash testing. The motor is decent. But everything else is else is not well made. For that price range, you could look at some of the Hondas or Toyotas, which would be a better buy. I'm not a big fan of Korean made cars. The only Korean manufacturer that has a good reputation is Hyundai and that's only in the past couple of years. Just my opinion...there are just better cars out there in that price range.

The Lola is supposed to race. The car originally was planned to be debuted at Laguna Seca, but they received it early and had it for the Petit. To let you guys know, the Porsche motors drown out the Ferrari motors.

The Lola is supposed to be there. They talked to the head guy for Mazda and they were going to have the car there. They just needed to replace a couple of pieces on the chassis from the accident at the Petit.

I'll be at the Laguna Seca race and will be taking pictures. Was wondering if anyone would like pictures of any particular car.

Thanks for everyone's comments. Was talking to some other people on another forum and they were mentioning that someone needed to make the IMSA GTO and GTU class cars. Those were the Mazdas that I would like to see get made.

Besides moisture getting into the paint, you could have either shot it too late or too soon and the paint was off gassing at the time. Another thing, you might have put too much clear on. I have had this happen to me a couple of times. You should be able to buff it out or sand it out, but you might need to put another shot of clear over the top after you're done.

I'm with the two above. Stay away from styrene glue. A method I use is to use clear acrylic from Tamiya. It will give a good strong hold and won't frost the glass. If you make a mistake, wipe it down with alcohol.

I'm with Bob. If you can afford the Iwata, that would be the one to buy. I'm not a big fan of Badger. When I worked at a hobby shop, the main airbrushes that would come in for maintenance were the Badgers.

The decals are decent. You just have to lay them under a lot of clear to bring up the shine. As for replacement decals, your best bet would be to look at places that carry slot cars. They might carry replacement decals.