Brendan

Got a little work done. Majority of the parts are painted. Not many parts for this kit. I'm going to have to fabricate a roll bar for it since the resin one is incorrect. Interior parts Exhaust and oil catch painted in Alclad Center section of three piece rims painted with Alclad (rims could have been casted better) You can see the pinholes on the chassis. They didn't show up till after I put down the black paint. So now I have to fill them in and repaint. Filled in some holes on the body, but there still are some smaller pinholes that I need to fill in.

I slightly remember this car. Very nice work. Probably one of the most interesting paint schemes on a 962.

I like how it turned out. Reminds me of the old Model Masters Root Beer paint. Now they just need to do a race car in that paint and I'll have to get one.

Triumph usually ran their cars as a lighter green, not the dark green like the Jaguars and Lotus would have run.

Thanks for the comments. The tonneau cover was painted with Tamiiya's NATO Black with a semi-gloss clear coat over it to give it a leather look. Zoom Zoom, very nicely done on your 250. It looked like I almost copied yours. The pictures I had of my car had a blackish tonneau cover instead of the more common red.

You want to use Tamiya's TS-9 British Green, which is the darker of the two.

This was a quick build of the Hasegawa kit. Paint is Tamiya's AS-12 with Tamiya clear (airbrushed). Kit was an easy build. Everything fit pretty well. Had some issues with the body and chassis going together...tight squeeze. And also a problem with the exhaust not fitting very well. Had to do some modifications to it. Was trying to replicate a car driven by E.D. Martin who raced in the C Modified Class. Could find only one picture of this car which did not have the number plates. If anybody runs across a picture of this car, let me know. It should have the number 41 on it. Feel free to comment.

I think you mean Riley, not Riley and Scott. The Scott part is no more. He's been doing all the new racing development for GM for their production based cars. He did the GTO, the GXP, and also he did some work with the Corvettes. The Camaros should do very well against the Mustang on certain tracks, but it will be interesting to see how much of a restrictor will be put on. They did the same thing when the Cobalt first came out in the series...kicked everybody's butt, then it was handicapped so much it could not longer compete.

You should paint it pink with purple polkadots. I was looking at maybe getting this kit. I just finished up with the Hasegawa 250 TR. It will be interesting to see what you do with the kit.

Cal, The bullet holes in the car are the pinholes I was talking about. I always circle imperfections on the body right off the bat so I know what areas to touch up on if I have to leave it for a period of time. 3men2s, The resin wasn't really that clean. This is about after an hour and a half of clean up work already done to the body. This is pretty typical of Profil 24. They have a lot of flashing, but it's easy to remove. I'm hoping to get some primer on some of the smaller parts in the next couple of days. I'm looking at maybe replacing the rims since I don't like the look of the 3-piece set up that they have.

I'm working on a Profil 24 Mazda RX-7. First impression...kit seems to be a decent kit. I already see some fit issues with some parts (typical Profil 24). A lot of flashing on the body and some pinholes that need to be filled as seen in some of the pictures. Body shape looks correct from the photos that I have. This is the car that helped launch Mazda into prototype racing since this was the test bed for the 13B motor that later on in '91 ended up winning Le Mans over all. Unfortunately this car didn't make it too far in the race, but its sister car did fairly well. The typical Mazda problem...having the transmission catch on fire from the tremendous heat from the motor.

Look for a nail gun compressor. You can get them for under $100 and they last for several years. Some places like Harbor and Freight would carry them. There's no point in looking at name brands since the majority of the air compressors are the same whether they're a name brand or not. They usually carry the same warranty. Also look for an oiless motor compressor. That way you don't have oil being able to get into the air, which could ruin your paint.

I'm in agreement with everyone about the air pressure. I only shoot certain paints, like Alclad, at 10 PSI. But I usually shoot most paints between 20 and 30 PSI. Some epoxy paints I'll shoot close to 50 PSI. The other thing that came to mind with the strings coming out is that the thinner might not have been compatible with the paint. Or you could have had contaminates in your paint cup or in the airbrush itself. I've had this happen with clear coats where I hadn't cleaned out my paint cup thoroughly and the clear started to catalyze in the cup. Another possibility...was it a hot day? Temperatures and humidity will reek havoc on paints.

Gregg, How about making a section for them? Then they could put in coupons or special deals for members of the forum. Just an idea.

I second that.

Flat -3 parts paint , 2 parts thiner (+/- thiner) like milk.

Nice job on the Ferrari. Love the paint job.

Gregg had a lot of complaints about off topic posts. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=13418

Firestone at LeMans

The kit can be sometimes warped and parts do not fit.

Thanks for the compliment. Could have been a lot worse. Could have been a Heller Peugeot 905.

Thanks for the comments. It's one of those kits that if you're a Porsche fan and have to have it in your collection, you'll get it. I more irked that I paid a lot of money and the decals did not fit correctly. Also along with some decals not even being included in the kit. It would be interesting to see if Revell of Germany does it, but I highly doubt they would. Also the car is not as well known, such as the Audi. This is the first year they've actually won some major events. First over all at Sebring and then First in Class at Le Mans.The funny thing is I did the Le Mans Miniatures Audi R10 and then a couple of months later, Revell of Germany came out with their kit. So It might happen this time as well.

Kit is from Studio 27. Typical casting; very minimal flashing; quite a few pewter parts; very easy to clean up. Had some issues with the kit as you can see in my build. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=13147 The kit is a decent kit but I really can't recommend this kit. There were just too many little things that were wrong with it for the price of the kit. I used Scalefinishes paint. Covers extremely well; very user friendly; would highly recommend this paint. http://scalefinishes.com/ Here's some pictures of my kit. Feel free to comment.

Got the chassis and body together. Everything fits really well; nice and tight. Some of the antennas are from an after market company, though I can't remember which one since the ones in the kit were not very good. Added a radio box on the inside of the passenger side compartment. Had a hard time cutting out the headlight and the taillight covers. I screwed up on one of the taillight covers but it won't be very noticeable when I get on the wing. Also put in small wind screens on the driver's and the passenger's compartment which shows it in my reference photos. Should have the wing and the rims on by late tonight. It should be in the under glass section tomorrow...if I don't screw up. Thanks to everyone who followed along. Here's some pictures. Another small issue is the rear P/E (screen/guerney lip) was just a little bit too small by about 1 mm on each side.

I really like the clear. It goes on very nicely. Only downside is that you have to do quite a few light coats to get a really good shine. Would relate it to what Cobra Colors Clear is like. It was real easy to use and it didn't run...unlike some other clears I have used. It also dries really fast.