Brendan

On top of that, they also had to have room for a co-driver and also tools to put on the tires. They also needed to have working horn. Chaparrel used to put bicycle horns in their cars to comply with the rule. Very nice build. I've seen a couple of these built up but none as nice as yours.

Found another interesting article. http://www.autosport.com/news/report.php/id/70520 As for Grand Am, I think that it is a lot more boring than the ALMS. The only thing good about that series is the GT cars. The GT cars are technically GT3 category cars. The ALMS is already running under FIA rules. But they were able to allow some balancing of the classes in P1 and P2 to make them competitive with each other. After next year they won't be able to. The Corvettes in GT2 with their 5.5 liter will be on equal playing fields with the rest of the cars. The Panoz is already running a 5.5 liter. The new Porsches that are coming out will have the new chassis which they were going to run two years ago, but were told that it was going to be illegal. The Ferrari's chassis by definition is illegal because they are running a carbon fiber chassis. Porsche was told that would not be allowed.

Since it looks like there's not going to be a GT1 category much longer, they need to bring back the GT3 category. Make it so that the biggest motor that you have is a 6 cylinder and under 3 liters. Or a 4 cylinder turbo under 1.5 liters...like they used to have. Then make the GT2 the new GT1 category.

GM announces that the Factory Team will be switching to GT2 in 2010. And running a limited schedule in 2009. You can blame the ALMS for not bringing competition into the GT1 category. In Europe there are quite a few GT1 cars running. Here's a link to the article. http://www.americanlemans.com/News/Article.aspx?ID=4783 http://www.americanlemans.com/News/Article.aspx?ID=4784

Good catch. I didn't even notice that. On my previous post I should have said square, not circle. AMT has had this problem a couple of times in some of their kit instructions. I would just paint it the way that you like. Or maybe look up on line what the colors would be. Try the GM website and see if they don't have a walk around view. Also email AMT and let them know about this problem.

First I'll tell you is to read the instructions thoroughly. Kits use a lot of symbols for paints and other procedures that they want you to do. You'll see a number and that is for the part. Then you'll see a circle with a letter in it and that corresponds to what paint to use for that part. If you look on the front of the instruction sheet, it will give you a column with a bunch of letters and the name of the paint next to the letters. For example: Say the letter is P and color next to it says aluminum, they want you to paint all the parts that have the letter P next to the part on the instruction sheet to be painted aluminum. Each kit will be different. So you have to pay attention to what it has on the front of the instruction sheet for painting. Each manufacturer has their own way of telling you how to paint. As for the body, they usually don't tell you what color to paint it. They leave that up to you. I think this is what you were asking for.

To answer your question about why he didn't try to save it is that it's nearly impossible to save that car from a spin when it's hydroplaning like that. If you try to gas it, all he would do is spin the wheels and blown up the motor. Those cars are not like driving a normal street car. The way they have them set up they're on the edge of controllability when they're in the dry. On top of that, they are running slicks. As soon as the tires get cold, they lose all grip unlike a treaded tire. Plus they don't have traction control any more, which would have helped quite a bit. That' s why there's been more crashes this year in the rain than in years past.

So I take it you are a Ferrari fan. Very nice job on the paintings.

You're looking for something that's closer to 200. What I would do is buy 2 of the 70 and run them on two separate switches. So when you're airbrushing, you can have both on and when you're not, you leave one on to evacuate the rest of the fumes when you're done. The booth that I have runs at 200 on the high setting and 100 on the low setting with no impedents (sp). Hope this helps.

I use the sealer all the time on bare plastic and I've only had it damage one car, which was the Revell Corvette C6R. It etched the plastic a little, but that plastic was really soft. I haven't had any trouble since then. I usually put it on really thin and do multiple coats. And then put my primer over the top of it. Then I use a primer sealer over the top of the primer. It seems to give it a smoother surface. I've had really good luck with stuff.

GM had the same problem, but it was with people using spray deodorant which was getting on the surface of the cars before they were painted.

They did make a kit like that, but it was a rally car instead of a street racer. It ran with the Renault V-6, sometimes turboed.

I usually just wash it in warm water and then set it aside to air dry in a box so dust doesn't get on it. If I have a lot of finger marks, I will use a mild soap. But the only way I handle my bodies before the kit is finished is with latex gloves. The water should not affect the foil at all if it's set well.

Besides putting lacquer thinner in it, I also use a toothpick for when I'm pouring it into my holding container it gives something for the bubbles to come off on. But do it slowly since it could easily spill up and over. Also it will help gassing off quicker.

Good to hear you're getting your son into the hobby and that you made it through the storm. I'm only able to see one picture, but from I'm seeing, he's doing a good job. As long as he does Corvettes or GM products, he'll have a place at your workbench.

I thought someone made a resin body, but I don't remember who. As for the Fujimi, it's an old Nitchi (sp) kit. It's a terrible kit. Only thing good about it is that Fujimi gives you the resin figures.

We're not crazy; we're eccentric. Nice looking Mustang.

It depents on whether you are ordering through a retailer or a distributor. Most of the time you have to order by the case, but I used to place orders through a company like Horizon or Squadron, while working for a hobby shop we could order individual itesm. But if I ordered directly through Revell or any of the other direct outfits, I had to order by the case. And you had to meet minimal orders. Usually we did that once or twice a year, but we were able to put preorders on kits not available yet to meet our mins.

It's real easy to make. The benches are a laddered-frame structure with plywood and hardboard on top. The booth itself sits on top of the laddered frame. I made a plywood box and attached it to the ducting. I put galvanized steel sheets on the inside for an easy clean surface. (which I haven't done in a while)

Cool project you did. Now you need to make the race version.

Gregg, That farting in public is just old age. It's something you're going to have to learn to deal with. I'll be sure to talk to Bill the next time I see him and tell him that you were complaining. If you ever go again, let me know and I'll show you some better spots to get better shots of the track.

I don't know how it works in the UK but in the US there are several ways you can do it. Get a retail license/business license and order directly from the manufacturer. Usually you have to spend a certain amount of money to do it. Or buy from a distributor but you'll usually paying a little over cost. Most places require that you have an actual business in order to make an order. When I worked at a hobby store, we had to have a minimum order to be able to get what we wanted. (usually between $200-500, depending on who we ordered from) Hope this helps. There are other ways here in the US, but this is the most common. I would contact a distributor to find out what you need to do.

Very nicely done car. Used to see a lot of those around when I was younger. It was a car that could literally be run into the ground. As long as you took care of the motor, that car would run forever. Everything else might fall off, but it would still run.

I made mine so it could be both an updraft or a downdraft, depending on what I need it for. Easiest way to make it was to use an overhead exhaust fan for a kitchen unit. You can get a decent one for under $100. I don't have any problem with paint falling onto my projects. Just make sure to clean the screen every week. I mainly use the updraft. It seems to work better. I made a little storage bench to hold my air compressor so I have all my tools to my left. If I need something, then I can easily grab it.

They were penalized 30 seconds for a voidable contact. Both cars were warned about hitting on the straight. Porsche has been really after the ALMS about contact, especially after the Sebring race that happened a couple of years ago. The ALMS is finally doing the right thing. I'm getting sick and tired of seeing cars taken out because of people not knowing how to pass. As for the Studio 27 kit, I heard about this a couple of months ago. Expect to pay a pretty penny for it. I'm figuring around $200.