Brendan

yes and yes

I have never used this stuff. But I do know of some people who have had some problems with some resins. It made the resin soft. I find it easier to use a citrus based cleaner (organic). It seems to do a good job for me. Most of the kits I've been doing as of late have been resins and I haven't been running into any real big issues. The big key is to use a good primer and to do multiple light coats of primer.

Duplicolor has problems with their white primer. I have contacted them about this and they said unless you're using a hotter paint it won't bite into the primer. (They said they're working on the issue.) They don't have this issue with their gray primer though. They said it had something to do with the chemical makeup to make the primer white. I've had this problem several times so I stopped using the white primer. Their primers are really meant for automotive paints. And the Tamiya paints just aren't hot enough for it. What I have done for painting red cars is I'll use a gray primer and shoot pink over the top. And then shoot my red.

Most resin manufacturers don't use a mold release since they use silicone molds. The oily residue is actually from the resin itself since it is a form of plastic. For removing the oil, use a mild detergent or hand soap and scrub clean with a brush. The product I use is called Awesome, usually sold in Dollar Stores. It's one of the best oil strippers that I have used. It's a citrus based cleaner. I spray it on and let it sit for about 10 minutes and then scrub away. Wash with lukewarm water and then I usually spray it with denatured alcohol so it dries quicker. (air dry) And then it's ready for primer. As for glues, any two part epoxy or super glue will work fine on resin. If you use super glue, get a bottle of setting solution as it will prevent fogging of the super glue.

Very nicely done Porsche,Mercedes and Toyota. The ALMS wasn't the series you're thinking of. You're thinking of the FIA GT Series that used to run in the U. S. It's still running over in Europe. As for the cars flipping over, there's actually quite a few. The Mercedes at LeMans (2 cars flipping; one in practice and one in the race), the Porsche 911 GT1 EVO at the Petit, the BMW LMR, Audi R10 Sebring test session, and there's quite a few more. This is the major problems with these cars in that they are all flat bottomed. They need to start going back to ground effects. Much safer racing.

Somebody did make the STR car but I don't remember who. As for the changing the rules, that's not that big a deal for me. What I don't like is that they're trying to push everyone to running the same motor. (The FIA is trying to make money on this.) What's going to start happening with F1 is that it's not going to be F1 anymore. It's going to be a spec series with the only difference is that the teams are going to be running different chassis. They already have the A1 GP which is not very good to begin with. And also the fact that they're not racing in the Americas. That tells me that they don't want me as a fan and if that's the way they want it, I won't watch. Just my opinion.

Bob, the best clear coat I've used that won't hurt decals is Floquil Crystal Coat. I've used it on all my cars that have had extensive decaling since I mainly do race cars. I have never had it yellow on white cars. Photo attached of Crystal Coat over a Corvette.

Cool idea. Can it go into the future and back? NNL West needs to do a theme for race cars. (Like that will happen.) You Hot Rod Builders need to give us racers a chance.

Hey Nick F40, Need to make your topic in a way so it doesn't spoil the race. Put a spoiler alert in it. Not everyone has seen the race yet. I saw the race. Decent race. One of the better races of the year. But unfortunately, I have almost lost all interest in Formula 1. All the stuff behind the scenes is starting to kill the series. I'll stick with sports car racing.

Really no way to fix clear parts like that. Best bet would be to take some clear acetate and make some windows out of it. Who did you get your kit from? Was it somebody like Hobby Link Japan? If so, you just let them know and they should be able to send a replacement part.

Make sure you get the right Aston Martin Green. There are 6 to my knowledge. One was a green gold and one was silver green. Those colors were used back in the '60's. Even the cars they're racing now have a different tone from when it originally raced in 2005. On my Renaissance kit, I used Cobra Colors and then on my Hiro kit, I used MCW's special order Aston Martin Green which is a little more gold. If you get Scale Finishes paint, send some pictures of the paint as it would be nice to see the differences in the paint. When this kit first came out, there were some big arguments over the color of the paint.

Here's a couple of pictures that will hold you over. When I was at the races, I talked to one of the head guys for Corvette and he was explaining that they were going to hold off on the C7 until the economy picked up. As far as he knew, they were not going to be cancelling the Corvettes, especially in racing. He was saying that they had too big of a following now.

Those kits aren't that bad. Should see the ones that I have built in the past. At least you're taking them apart and saving pieces. Most of my older kits, I've either blown up or they're buried in the sand box at my old house. You see the areas you need improvement on and your skills will improve as you build. Try not to get down on the mistakes that happen and use them as a learning experience. Everyone makes them. Just enjoy the hobby.

I don't know what happened to all my build photos but this is what I have. The last photo is a comparison of the bodies between the Hiro and the Renaissance. The Hiro kit does not have decals on it. Here's the link. http://s225.photobucket.com/albums/dd91/Ho...n%20DBR9%20GT1/

This has been ongoing for the past couple of years. The FIA is trying to make it cheaper for smaller teams to run. Toyota has announced the same thing...that they would pull out and concentrate more on sports cars if this happens. Max Mosley and the FIA are basically trying to shoot themselves in the foot. I would almost bet that all major car manufacturers would pull out if this happens.

I don't have an STI. I own a '04 WRX Wagon with Titanium Silver paint. It was close to a 50/50 weight distribution. I drove the 4-door sedan and didn't like it as much as the wagon. My car gets really good gas mileage considering how much the car weighs. The last trip I went on with the car weighed down with luggage, my average was anywhere between 31 and 35 mpg. And that's going over the mountains. It's better than my friend's new hybrid.

Thanks for the comments. I really don't consider this car to be a tuner as it comes from the factory. But yes, it is the new Revell plastic kit. I haven't built the metal version so I don't know what the differences are. It was easy to build. Most of the issues were mainly on the body, not being accurate to the STI version. It's closer to being stock. The interior is nice as well but it's the stock interior, not the STI version. Comparing it to my 1:1 car that I own, the engine bay is accurate. I would have preferred the stock version and then have the STI parts as add on parts. But that's just my opinion.

I have built both kits and both of them have their pluses and minuses. So if you have any questions or need help, feel free to ask. I could get pictures of the build if you would like them for references. Another thing is to go onto Renaissance home page and look up the photos he has from LeMans as they are good references for colors for painting. It's a good kit. You'll enjoy it; just take your time.

Quick one week build. Did it as kind of a diversion from the usual. Kit is not a bad kit, but not good either. Everything fits very well; very little seam lines. The motor is the best thing out of the entire kit, but is not correct for the STI version. (It is the 2 L instead of the 2.5 L) The body facia is having a hard time trying to decide if it's a stock or STI version. But it looks decent when finished. Paint used on the body was Cobra Colors GT Metallic.(Porsche) The interior was a mix of Tamiya acrylics. Would recommend this kit just for the motor. Feel free to comment.

Very nicely built car. I was going to do the other version of the car at some point. Here's some pictures of the Corvette from Laguna Seca 2008 in a slightly different paint scheme.

It should work, but the way I do mine is I mix up a flat black and some aluminum acrylic paint and thin it down heavily into a wash. Then I put a drop of it in between the spokes and use a straw and blow so it gives a streaking motion which seems to work pretty well for me.

Try Kevin at Strata Sports. He has it listed for $8.00. Here's the link to the Scale Productions on his page. It's about halfway down. I do business with Kevin all the time. He has outstanding service. Hope this helps. http://www.stradasportsstore.com/page86.html http://www.stradasports.com/

Yes, you do brush them on. Let it dry and see if you have any spot that you need to add more to. So it covers completely. After it's cured, then go ahead and paint your rims. After the paint is dried, you can peel off the liquid mask or white glue. Any more questions, feel free to ask. That how we learn.

Renault ended up making Nissan a good company again. Nissan was making a bunch of garbage for a while. I, too, would like to see some of the Renault cars come over.

I was just doing a general breakdown of the price; just trying to get a rounded number for what he has down as his starting bid. But this type of item is usually done on commission or as contract work so it's usually not charged by an hourly rate. I have dealt with companies such as Toyota, Chevy, and Ford, and when I have built for them, we had a contract for a set price, usually around $3000 as a starting point. You never truly get the price for the amount of work put in.