cj112674 Posted June 10, 2008 Posted June 10, 2008 thanks again to all of you that posted on my other thread, you guys are all very helpful and i appreciate all the insight. i haven't picked a project just yet, but i'm leaning towards a mustang or muscle car of some sort. i was wondering how you guys paint your smaller parts like engine blocks, interior pieces like the dash and sorts. i mean, how do you get so percise without getting paint all over the other parts. a zero brush, or air brush even? also when you guys are glueing and fitting parts, do you just dab glue with a toothpick and clamp it to hold it in place without getting mold lines? is it better to use super glue to hold the parts together now, and also use hobby glue as well? i rember putting seats together and where they meet, and also engine blocks, the mold lines were always visible. do i glue then sand the lines down then paint to hide them? sorry for all the questions guys, but i dont want to dive in head firts without some tricks, and you guys seem to have a lot of cool ideas and i hope you dont mind me picking your brains..
bobss396 Posted June 10, 2008 Posted June 10, 2008 There is more than one way to skin the proverbial cat. I tend to take all my parts off the trees, clean them up first. I'll drill holes (where it won't show) to give me a place to "spear" the part with a toothpick and paint away. You can also hold the parts on fun-tack (used to hang posters) and a toothpick. Double sided tape works well for painting parts that have one side that won't show. For mold lines on 2 piece assemblies, I'll glue them with Tenax or Proweld brush-on glue and sand the seams. Almost all my pre-paint assembly is done with the aforementioned glues. I save super glue and epoxy for final assembly where more control is needed on painted parts. I really hate painting dashboards and interiors. I usually spray paint the major pieces and do the detailing with a small brush (buy good ones!) and have been using acrylic paint lately. Hope this helps. Bob
randx0 Posted June 10, 2008 Posted June 10, 2008 what he said , and also I like tenax for my liquid glue another tool you may want to check out is the flexi file it is a "u" shaped aluminum thingy that you attach premade sandpaper strips great for those mold lines and glue joints.and finally just a suggestion when you have decided which muscle car you want to build run it by some one who has been building for a while so that you can avoid buying a crappy kit there are some out there and you can't always trust the box art for example there is a gremlin kit out there stated as 1/24 but it is actually much bigger.good luck and feel free to question away that's how you get better.
evilone Posted June 10, 2008 Posted June 10, 2008 heres what i do the engine i put together first sand all the edges and put it on a bent out paper clip inbeded into a box to hold it for painting for the detail stuff ie dash pieces i use the smallest brush i have (cant remember the #)and free hand it the bolts i do the same as the dash parts as for the little stuff i take it off the tree and hold the can a foot away or decrease the pressure on the air brush as for what ledsled said its 100% true build for you and no one else have fun and learn the whole way my 59 ambulance is the example of what i learned for a year or two this is the cleanest build ive done ever 2nd is my t-bucket which took 2nd in my first show if you go all out it takes longer so do some box stocks first then advance to plug wires the a little more detail and so on and so forth learn to walk befor you run hope to see some goods coming from you bro and if you want to get the 94 impalas hit me up with a pm
MrObsessive Posted June 10, 2008 Posted June 10, 2008 Another tip to keep the mold lines from "ghosting" or reappearing, is to sand the mold lines smooth, brush the mold lines with liquid glue (Ambroid or Tenax), wait for the glue to dry--------You'll notice that the mold lines have reappeared. That's because the "hot" solvents in the glue have caused the "memory" in the plastic to show what was molded there previously. Next, you want to sand that area again smooth and then when you paint, the mold lines shouldn't reappear because you've sanded away the memory in the plastic-------as the solvents in the paint are not as hot as actual liquid glue. HTH!
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now