Exhaust question

[dryvr12]

Ok so I know I will try to make my exhust outta solder. I have two questions. One, whould you just epoxy the solder onto the engine block?(ive never used epoxy). And two, how would you make the tips (or if you use solder) how would you make the holes to make it look authentic? I really need some help, so any comments are appreciated. Dryvr12

Edited July 4, 2008 by dryvr12

[James W]

Try drilling and mounting small diameter wire, both at the ends and along the run of the pipe like where an exhaust clamp would be. You can then use AC glue to hold the solder in place. I find that glue alone is not strong enough to hold, especially when you make adjustments. By pinning it into place you can unmount and remount the pipes until you have it looking the way you want.

As for the tips, add a piece of aluminum tube to the end of the solder. You might try making the whole tail section, aft of the mufflers, from aluminum tube if the bends are not to sharp.

Hope this helps.

[dryvr12]

Try drilling and mounting small diameter wire, both at the ends and along the run of the pipe like where an exhaust clamp would be. You can then use AC glue to hold the solder in place. I find that glue alone is not strong enough to hold, especially when you make adjustments. By pinning it into place you can unmount and remount the pipes until you have it looking the way you want.

As for the tips, add a piece of aluminum tube to the end of the solder. You might try making the whole tail section, aft of the mufflers, from aluminum tube if the bends are not to sharp.

Hope this helps.

What size bit do you think would be ok to use?

[James W]

Sorry I took a while to get back.

I use .0225 to .025 drills with some .020" wire that I've had around for some time.

The solder you are using for exhaust, assuming 24-25 scale, is about .125 diameter so anything up to about half that diameter, .0625", would work on the ends.

For exhaust hangers you will want something smaller like .020"

Just get some piano wire and matching small drill bits at the local hobby shop.

Think of the pins the model companys use to align parts in a kit. You are making custom parts so make custom pins.

It's up to you ultimately.

How much modeling have you done? Do you have a pin vise(small diameter drill)? They are very handy for adding detail like engine wire, plumbing and brakes.

Anyway let me know if I'm going over your head or if this is stuff you already know.

[The Modeling Hermit]

You might also consider using metal tubing for exhaust.

[VW Dave]

You might also consider using metal tubing for exhaust.

Unless you slide a similarly-sized metal rod inside, it can be hard to get decent bends without kinks.

An alternative I've found to solder is 'armature wire,' which is available at Michaels or A.C. Moore craft stores. It's aluminum, so it's lighter than solder; it also bends very easily, and can be polished with minimal effort(it looks pretty good as-is IMO). It's available in 3 or 4 different sizes, and they have it in straight sections as well as on the roll.

Here's what one of the rolls of bigger stuff looks like on the hook at the store:

And here's the first set of headers I made out of the smaller stuff(with aluminum tubing for the outlets):

[tabsscale1]

Unless you slide a similarly-sized metal rod inside, it can be hard to get decent bends without kinks.

An alternative I've found to solder is 'armature wire,' which is available at Michaels or A.C. Moore craft stores. It's aluminum, so it's lighter than solder; it also bends very easily, and can be polished with minimal effort(it looks pretty good as-is IMO). It's available in 3 or 4 different sizes, and they have it in straight sections as well as on the roll.

Here's what one of the rolls of bigger stuff looks like on the hook at the store:

And here's the first set of headers I made out of the smaller stuff(with aluminum tubing for the outlets):

You could also use Heat shrinking tubes over the 4 ends just heat it a little to conform around the 4 pieces of solder

[m408]

Sorry I took a while to get back.

I use .0225 to .025 drills with some .020" wire that I've had around for some time.

The solder you are using for exhaust, assuming 24-25 scale, is about .125 diameter so anything up to about half that diameter, .0625", would work on the ends.

For exhaust hangers you will want something smaller like .020"

Just get some piano wire and matching small drill bits at the local hobby shop.

Think of the pins the model companys use to align parts in a kit. You are making custom parts so make custom pins.

It's up to you ultimately.

How much modeling have you done? Do you have a pin vise(small diameter drill)? They are very handy for adding detail like engine wire, plumbing and brakes.

Anyway let me know if I'm going over your head or if this is stuff you already know.

James, I have found that using a hobby knife handle works better than a pin vise for small drill sizes.

[Jairus]

James is right. You HAVE to drill a hole and pin all exhaust connections. Otherwise you will be fixing it everytime it breaks... and with the weight of solder... it will break!

Personally I use evergreen and bend it over a candle...

[James W]

Milt, I had forgotten about the hobby knife handles, I have one on my work table!

A number one xacto handle that has it's head split into 4 sections (some only split into two) makes a great drill holder. The large handle is easy to hold and use. I have an .020" chucked up all the time 'cause it makes a great starter hole for every other drill bit.

dryvr12, I see elsewhere on the forum that you are in your formative years. Keep your solutions simple. I know that buying tools is not as fun as buying the next kit, but the tools will last a lifetime. Jairus solution of heated plastic rod (Evergreen brand) may be the easiest to work with, but don't be afraid to try the solder.

[dryvr12]

Milt, I had forgotten about the hobby knife handles, I have one on my work table!

A number one xacto handle that has it's head split into 4 sections (some only split into two) makes a great drill holder. The large handle is easy to hold and use. I have an .020" chucked up all the time 'cause it makes a great starter hole for every other drill bit.

dryvr12, I see elsewhere on the forum that you are in your formative years. Keep your solutions simple. I know that buying tools is not as fun as buying the next kit, but the tools will last a lifetime. Jairus solution of heated plastic rod (Evergreen brand) may be the easiest to work with, but don't be afraid to try the solder.

sry i was on vaccation. what you said isnt ovr my head, but i am just starting to detail my models more (more than what is in the kit).

[abedooley]

I know that buying tools is not as fun as buying the next kit, but the tools will last a lifetime.

WHAT DO YOU MEAN????? I love buying tools as much as I love buying the kits!!!! Its always fun to find something to make anything easier and more fun to build!!!

[James W]

WHAT DO YOU MEAN????? I love buying tools as much as I love buying the kits!!!! Its always fun to find something to make anything easier and more fun to build!!!

OK, OK I know what your saying... but back when I could only spend what I had in my pocket, coming out of a hobby shop without a kit was unthinkable. I remmember buying a 1:72 bi-plane 'cause it was only $1.50 and I couldn't afford a car kit. Shoot, I used my first xacto blade for ten years, and it was a hand-me-down.

Yes I like tools, but I have way more kits in my closet.

[abedooley]

TEN YEARS?!?!?!?!?!?! WOW! I gotta see that blade..... Luckily for me, I have been buying tools that work for our hobby for the last 14 years or so and I've collected quit a few in my short 27 years. I've always loved buying tools as much as the kits. I think its because tools are ALMOST forever and they are the pinacle of model building. No tools, no model. No model, you still have the tools to use on other things.

[VW Dave]

Jairus solution of heated plastic rod (Evergreen brand) may be the easiest to work with, but don't be afraid to try the solder.

Both the styrene and solder are good ideas, but the aluminum rod I suggested is lighter than solder(less weight & stress on the finished model IMO)