James W

The Revell 'phone booth' cabs are so cool, even when I was 10 the roadster cabs languished in the box. I did finally build one a couple years back.

Jairus and I came across something like this in eastern Oregon. I actually remembered it from my childhood in the early 70's. Very cool to see this stuff out there. There was a big push in the late 70's to get rid of this kind of thing, but it is history in my eyes. You don't paint over cave art and you don't scrap old jalopys rusting in the desert.

Link to Sheetmetal How To: Posted this how to a few months back, hope it helps. If the pictures don't come up just refresh they should be there

Grandma might have had something to do with the right rear fender. This story line might be a little more removed from what happened to the car and more what is happening now, but I think it is important to tell a story in your mind. There should be a reason for every mark, it keeps things realistic. Thanks for the feedback guys, I had just enough overcast sky before the rain started to get some well lit pictures.

Come on over and check-out my latest ride. The dash is in good shape, the seat is worn and sagging. Door panels are removed and the floorboards show much neglect. The right door came from a green car, it has been stripped. I put temporary signal lights on the front to keep it legal. The rear quarter also has been stripped and shows a bit of body damage. The rockers show lots of rust through. The trunk pan is rusting through, but the left quarter is ready for some block sanding after I filled the trim holes. This side is in better shape than the other, but still has some rusty rocker panels. A little Por 15 will keep the drip rails solid for years to come. Overall a solid car for it's age, nothing some welding skills can't fix. Next winter it goes back in the shop to replace the floors. Meanwhile I'm gonna cruise it to all the summer hot spots.

From the movie Guys and Dolls. The Joey Biltmore Garage. A little out there, but maybe another movie will inspire a name.

You've got a very good looking project there. I like the whole package, paint and rust work together well. A tip; stainless steel will look like it's new even on a barn find. Chromed pot metal will be pitted and dull. I know the side spear is stainless. I think the rock gaurds on the rear fenders are pot metal. Your interior work is classy too!

It's fun to have a fresh start. Seems like as soon as you get it together you come up with improvements you could have made. My current work desk is a built-in, but it's about my fourth attempt.

Yep! just start building and add tricks along the way. Passion is what drives you to improve, if you build to your interests. There are lots of great building tips and techniques on this forum. Your models will improve as you practice. Don't wait for perfection before you show us what you are working on!

Not taking away from Art's sound advice, I picked up a hand-full of reading glasses, from the Dollar Store, of different strengths and use them depending on how far away I want to hold a subject to work on it. I went from using them once in a while to putting them on as soon as I sit at the work bench. I even chopped the plastic lenses so that I can see over them to reach for stuff and still use them for close work.

Glad to hear you're back at it. I've had a couple times when I could have stayed or switched jobs, including getting two offers the same day. You just have to take an educated guess and go for it. Either one is better than sitting at home. Now give it your best and work your way up to the top!

Today you can buy electronic control FWD cars from just about any manufacturer. But the first to build the whole package was Porsche with the 959 in about 1985. ABS, Computer controlled damping and ride hight, Comp controlled differentials with 4 program settings, electronic wastegates, 450 hp. Just dump the clutchat 6000 rpm. Aahrr! Aahrr! Aahrr!

Got these Javelins a few years back and plan to build one and sell the other, but I'm just not in that mode of build right now. Also in the picture; Hippy Hemi is missing a few parts,but has some Garlits parts thrown in. The Valiant is built, the price tag is 25 years old. The 69 442 box has chrome and hood from a 68 kit that I would like to use in a conversion someday.

If a car is going to be shown or put in a museum then restore it. If it is going to be used, driven, relied upon, then upgrade all you like. If you really want to relive the past, buy a fresh restoration, drive it a while then restify it so you can keep driving it. Auto parts stores don't sell ANY restoration parts. A car is only original once. Even my one owner 55 Chevy was modified by it's first owner to make it suit him.

Just prayed now for you, and whenever I think of you.

As I remember, this kit was based on a drawing that Jairus made for the 'Slammers' series. He submitted multiple illustrations and they chose the ones they would use. Additionally, AMT chose one illustration for a full on kit. Funny thing, interpreting a 3-D kit from a 2-D illustration. The headlights on the model don't match Jairus work. Seems like they based this one on a rear veiw or something like that. He may have more info.

An example of 'mob mentality' at it's worst. Where is a moderator when they are needed. Oh, that's right. He's posting too!

Top kit is 1985, bottom is 1994. Parts line up is identical in both. 1985 version was first to have all the original parts restored to the kit. I'm not sure when they were deleted.

Fred Meyer, a Northwest retail chain, has returned models back to their shelves. I found a selection of Revell re-release subjects with 1:24/1:25 scale cars going for $11.99. This is the first time I have found models in a non hobby/craft store since W-Mart pulled them. I hope this is a good sign.

Living in Bend I know you have a heater in your home. What kind is it? I have a sort of 'box' built over the heat register in my hobby room that I cure paint in. It's about 90 degrees in there. Even the top of a room is going to be warmer than the floor. Find a source of heat and tap into it!

Good to see you here Marc. That is one nice build-up. I don't usually like this type kit, but you really made this one legit! I've got some furniture you can refinish for my wife.

I have had limited success with powered sanding techniques. I most commonly put a sheet of sand paper on my leg as I am sitting and hold the tire by the sidewalls. Then I pull the tire across the sandpapre while I rotate the tire and repeat. Pull and rotate at the same time. After a few rotations the tread surface smoothes out as the sanded areas blend together. I start with coarse 320 or 400 for slicks and graduate to finer 600 or 800 then finish by polishing the tread on my blue jeans. For treaded tires start around 600 grit. If you don't want to round off the shoulders of the tire, start with the paper on a table top and move to the pant leg for the fine grits only.

I cut the plastic from the back with a sharp ball cutter. The sharper it is the less likely to create heat and melt plastic which you don't want to do. If you thin the plastic it acts more like metal and will bend. You can create tracks where the plastic will bend like a dent in sheetmetal. Or you can thin a whole panel and make dents by heating it with hot water. Hold the plastic up to a light to check how thin it is getting. I sometimes paint white plastic with dark primer so I can see from the side I am cutting how thin it is getting. Once it is thinned, you can break through the plastic with a sharp blade to make rust holes. Do this from the back side and leave the jagged plastic 'hanging'. Hope these help a little.

Bare Metal Foil is very thin and has an adhesive already applied so that you just peel it off the backing paper and apply it to the model. Now 15 people are going to jump in and say that BMF dose not stick or that it goes bad on the shelf at the hobby shop... I will just say that I have never had adverse problems with the product, it sticks well to clean surfaces and when burnished well with a q-tip stays where you put it. (just read the directions on the package) The photos in this topic show foil that is dated from 2002 and it still works great. So go to the hobby shop and get some and try it!