Zoomy Headers

[Jairus]

How to Make Zoomy Flathead Headers!

The following trick was first published in a 2001 or '02 issue of MCM. I am re-posting it here for all those who might not have seen it previously.

Sometimes in this hobby it is better (and easier) to scratch-build something new than it is to buy it and have to modify it to make it fit. Such is the case here where " cheap" copper electrical wire is used to make tube headers. The copper bends easy, solders securely and takes paint beautifully. Copper wire comes in various gauges and can be found at the hardware store. Ask for grounding wire so you don’t have to strip insulation.

The copper wire give the right tubing but you also need a taper tube for the exhaust exit and collector and this can be sourced from old paint brush ferrules. Ferrules come in a variety of sizes, shapes and materials too. So, I try to choose chrome plated brass so I can solder to them but unfortunately most paintbrushes are now made with aluminum so 3-minute epoxy is the next best attachment method. Look for a smooth finish with NO seams and a size and taper to fit your particular project. Buy some extras for other projects, and... heck, you can always paint with them!

1 The basis for this project are two low priced paint brushes. Look for the small end of the ferrule to approximate the size of the 14 gauge wire used for header pipes. Keep your eyes open at your local arts and crafts store for a paint brush sale. Grab as many as you can afford at the time because you’ll end up using them one way or another.

2 Another item needed for this project is this neat small header flange set by Detail Master.

3 Strip insulation from 14 gauge wire with a set of wire strippers if needed.

4 Wire is bent and formed to look like this. File down the end of the 2nd tube and then insert both into the pre-drilled block. The ends must touch for the solder joint to be strong. Just “Tack†solder at this point. Then remove and clamp in a table vise to solder more securely without heat from the soldering iron distorting the kit engine block.

5 After soldering, shape and sand the joint smooth.

6 The paint brush ferrule is cut loose from it’s handle, cleaned out at both ends and shaped like this with a dremel bit.

7 Then the ferrule is test fit with 3rd header tube just to see how it all fits together.

8 Backside view shows where the 3rd header tube fits into the collector. Now use plenty of 3 minute epoxy to glue the pieces together.

9 After the epoxy has cured, sand the joints down smooth. Remove the headers and slip the Model Master header flanges down the tubes. You might have to use a “rat tail†file to open the holes a bit. Then set the header and the flanges into place aginst the block. Use CA glue sparingly here!

10 The finished headers should look like this if you didn’t use too much glue and are able to remove them.

And that is how it’s done!

[MikeMc]

Thats GREAT ......Thanks

[Kenny]

Great tip! Those look awesome!

[CB]

Showoff! very nice flourish there at the end Jairus--the sparkly reflection on the end of that cool zoomy

Thanks, I needed that. I'm going to build a set of headers for my Li'l T (Little T, Big Wheels- on the workbench) in 1/32 scale. Wish me luck. I was gonna just do straight pipes utilizing the insulation of the wire for the open ended pipes. Just may do that on some future build. I'm thinkin some carefully applied heat to the insulation 'open end' of the pipe and something stuck in it to flare it would work as well. However, I shall defer to your excellent tutorial here for now and proceed with glee . I shant be using any of my paintbrush ferrules (shame on you! and you call yerself a artist?! ) however as I'm 'collecting' the headers into some big honkin pipes that're goin back behind the tub of the Li'l T. Some other time I shall sacrifice a brush or two, coz the ferrules look waaay cool. Loved em on yer RatFinky VW slotty

[sdrodder]

Showoff! very nice flourish there at the end Jairus--the sparkly reflection on the end of that cool zoomy

Thanks, I needed that. I'm going to build a set of headers for my Li'l T (Little T, Big Wheels- on the workbench) in 1/32 scale. Wish me luck. I was gonna just do straight pipes utilizing the insulation of the wire for the open ended pipes. Just may do that on some future build. I'm thinkin some carefully applied heat to the insulation 'open end' of the pipe and something stuck in it to flare it would work as well. However, I shall defer to your excellent tutorial here for now and proceed with glee http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/uploads/emoticons/default_wink.png' alt=';)'> . I shant be using any of my paintbrush ferrules (shame on you! and you call yerself a artist?! http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/uploads/emoticons/default_wink.png' alt=';)'> ) however as I'm 'collecting' the headers into some big honkin pipes that're goin back behind the tub of the Li'l T. Some other time I shall sacrifice a brush or two, coz the ferrules look waaay cool. Loved em on yer RatFinky VW slotty

Dude if you are goin to put those on the little big wheel it would just look awsome. Cant wait to see it and thanks for the awsome tutorial. U just answered my question with this post jairus.

[Dr. Cranky]

Watson, buddy, you never cease to amaze me. What a great (classic!) how-to! Bless your generous soul, buddy!!! Thanks.