LVZ2881 Posted July 30, 2008 Posted July 30, 2008 Everytime I try a black wash, it doesnt turn out right.. what tips or hints do you have for usung this stuff..
Harry P. Posted July 30, 2008 Posted July 30, 2008 I've never used that product, so I can't comment on it, but you might like to try some other ways of doing a wash. You can take flat black paint and thin it down about 50:50 and use that as a wash. I thin down good old Testors (the little square glass bottle) and flow it on. Sometimes a quick wipe with a paper towel (or my finger) to bring out the raised areas, and you're good to go. You can also try thinned down black ink as a wash, as well as acrylic black paint. If you mess up, water will take care of your mistake and you can try again. There is also a spray by Testors called "Transparent black window tint" that I've used with good results. It gives chrome a sort of bluish-black look that I like...it tends to tone down the too-bright "model" looking chrome of kit parts, IMO. I especially like it on motorcycle engine parts and chrome spoked wheels. It gives the chrome parts a nice "depth". There are many different products you can use to get good results. Personally I like to use stuff I already have on hand anyway, rather than buying a specific "wash" product...but that's just me, the "frugal modeler"...
MikeMc Posted July 31, 2008 Posted July 31, 2008 I have washed with thinned flat black for years. That said I tried the detailer over chrome, and was not impressed. With a blue\purple cast over chrome...it just does not look correct.. I also found it "rubbery" when dry This '32 used the detailer on the carbs... This '34 used flat black on the grill...
abedooley Posted August 3, 2008 Posted August 3, 2008 I was just fixin to thin some flat black acrylic myself and was gonna ask someone what the best thing to thin it with?? Water... Alcohol?? What concentration alcohol?? I have 50% isopropyl on hand.....
Harry P. Posted August 3, 2008 Posted August 3, 2008 Acrylic paint can be thinned with plain old water.
abedooley Posted August 3, 2008 Posted August 3, 2008 Thanks Harry, That was a FAST reply!!!! I had everything sittin out in front of me just waitin for someone to reply and was thinkin I'd be waitin a while.... I've heard people say that alcohol works better and I've also heard people say that water works better. I just listen to the pros!! Thanks again for the fast response Harry!!!! Trying to black-out the radiator and I've been having problems getting the Detailor to co-operate!!! I've been sitting here for about 3 hours rtrying to detail all the little things and wondering if I should just go ahead and mix up my own wash. I guess I'm about to try something new.... I love it!!!
CAL Posted August 5, 2008 Posted August 5, 2008 (edited) Inks man, inks are where it's at. Carbs done with yellow and black inks over MM alu plate. all the aluminum inked. scripts on the valve convers inked. Exhuast blueing blue, violet and black inks. Edited August 5, 2008 by CAL
abedooley Posted August 5, 2008 Posted August 5, 2008 What kinds and brands of ink we talkin here??? I've wanted to try that, but I know some kinds of ink don't agree with my acrylics or some paints at all.
CAL Posted August 5, 2008 Posted August 5, 2008 What kinds and brands of ink we talkin here??? I've wanted to try that, but I know some kinds of ink don't agree with my acrylics or some paints at all. I use Windsor & Newton artist inks, with some iso.
CAL Posted August 5, 2008 Posted August 5, 2008 I'm guessing he means isopropyl alcohol as a thinner, probably the 70% type. Yup, Isopropyl 90% or 99%. That will help washing just about any surface finish you can throw at it.
Mustang fan Posted August 20, 2008 Posted August 20, 2008 I use Tamiya acrylic flat black (XF-1) for all my washes, I thin it a little with their own X20-A thinner, then liberally apply it to the part. I wait until it is almost dry, then use a cotton swab dipped in alcohol and gently brush the raised details to remove the paint. I do the body panel lines using the same technique (the alcohol won't touch the lacquer clear I use). It works every time for me... I know some people who use artist oil for their washes, they thin the color (paste from a tube) with turpentine and flow it on the part. Artist oils take a long time to dry completely (about a week), and can be removed by brushing turpentine on the parts and wiping it off.
STL MODELER Posted February 10, 2011 Posted February 10, 2011 So you are thinning that Tamiya smoke paint with water right?
W117monte Posted February 11, 2011 Posted February 11, 2011 I played with a mix of acrylic and water till it seemed to work for me. Then I added a drop of dish detergent. Not sure if that makes a difference but I read somewhere about doing that. I used an old film container and put it in that. It has lasted me years doing quite a few aircraft models.
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