B&M Pro Shifter history

[Speedfreak]

When was the B&M Pro Shifter first marketed/used? 

I'm building a ' 57 Bel Air ( Pepper Shaker ) and am considering using said shifter. Since the kit decals call out 425hp for the 409ci that would put us about 1963? Did B&M pro shifters ( or similar items ) exist in 1963?

Thanks!

[Ace-Garageguy]

B&M introduced their HydroStick in 1961, but it was an entire transmission (not just a shifter), moderately modified from the old GM Hydramatic (not the later Turbo Hydro). Though the trans used a manual-style shifter assembly to give complete control over the gearbox,  the "Pro-Shifter" line came along much later.

This is the trans, complete with shifter. 

There was a "gated" version of the shifter available around the same time.

[Speedfreak]

Thanks Bill!

[Greg Myers]

This is available in the Revell Orange Crate '32 Ford sedan kit.

and possible some of their Anglia Gasser kits

[Greg Myers]

Orange Crate 

[Speedfreak]

Thanks Greg, that would be cool but I'm just gonna put a manual floor shifter in. I only have one Anglia kit and don't want to part it out!

 

[Ace-Garageguy]

Just FYI, there's also one in the old Revell SWC Willys gasser, and this Revell parts-pack:

[Speedfreak]

I actually do have that parts pack, but , the engine is all painted up, so is the interior floor, so......, but this does bring up another topic for this section that I may start ' how to ' successfully ' seperate the flywheel housing from the block. More pointedly. What ' cutting ' tool to use and how to accomplish task. Maybe I'll start said thread (? ) in the next few days.

Again,

Thanks Bill, ( your knowledge is very helpful ).

[Ace-Garageguy]

31 minutes ago, Speedfreak said:

... but this does bring up another topic for this section that I may start ' how to ' successfully ' seperate the flywheel housing from the block. More pointedly. What ' cutting ' tool to use and how to accomplish task. Maybe I'll start said thread (? ) in the next few days...

Not too far back, I put that gearbox behind a 409 in an M/SP drag car, and the swap involved removing the manual bellhousing from the engine assembly first (in my case, I modded the bellhousing to look more appropriate for an automatic).

I've found the photo-etched saw blades to be the best for the task. They're several thousandths of an inch thinner than regular razor saws, so the kerf they take out is thinner. If used carefully, it's usually possible to save both parts that are cut apart...often impossible if a conventional razor saw is used.

The downside to the PE blades is that they're flexible, so there's a little learning curve to find exactly how horsey you can get with them.

[Speedfreak]

Got it, will check them out.