MADmodelDOCTOR Posted January 9, 2009 Posted January 9, 2009 I haven't used these. I would like to know the basic process of application. I'll be doing some engine and chassis parts. Thanks for any help. Later,
Olle F Posted January 9, 2009 Posted January 9, 2009 It's pretty thin and dries quickly, so brush painting can be difficult and you will have to use an airbrush if you paint bigger parts. However, you can actually dip smaller parts with good results, the paint is so thin that it won't build up like other types of paint do. Just glue the part to a piece of sprue, dip in the paint, tap off the excess and let it dry. As there's pretty much no build-up, it will show any imperfections so the surface prep is very important. Once it's dry, you can leave it as is, or buff it with a piece of soft cloth. You can also create some cool effects by a light polishing that leaves some areas dull. It adds a lot of depth to the engraved details (kinda like a wash does, but more subtle), and depending on how you do it you can make parts look worn, dirty etc. For example: When I painted the rims for the model in the pictures, I added some pastel powder before I buffed the paint, which created a grimey look. This works well with other parts too, like carburetors, aluminum valve covers, exhaust systems etc.
CAL Posted January 9, 2009 Posted January 9, 2009 I like using metalizers. I find that they work real well airbrushed over Tamiya primers. The work best airbrushed. Old thicker metalizers can be brushed, but is never as good as airbrushed. There are two kinds, buffing and non-buffing. Buffing can be polished up a little. I sometimes use SNJ power to polish. And they take real well to ink washes. I think sealing them, however, takes a little away from the metalizer effect. On the other hand, if handle you will leave prints, and it's real thin and over handling will take metalizers off.
frozono Posted February 10, 2009 Posted February 10, 2009 i used to simulate aluminum blocks, wheels even simulate racing exhaust. i used direct to the plastic. but the plastic have to be clean of grease or any chemical. i prefer the buffing metalizer. wen the paint is dried (about 10 to 15 minutes ) you can buffed to achieve a bright shine.
MADmodelDOCTOR Posted February 10, 2009 Author Posted February 10, 2009 Thanks to everybody for the info. later,
cruz Posted February 10, 2009 Posted February 10, 2009 This is a Skyline chassis I did several years ago using Metallizers, this stuff is great once you learn how to airbrush it. You can buff them or leave as is!!!! This one is also an Impala I did several years ago. Everything except the engine and chassis pan was painted with Metallizers.....
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