Didspade Paint Tips

[Duke Savage]

Has anyone used Didspade paint? Looking for tips to apply, or what to be cautious about. First time using Auto  grade paints 

Thought to give it a try , bought it from  Scale finishes

Any help would be greatly appreciated. 

Thanks Mel Hall

[Dpate]

Depending on what Didspade paint you got determines what base coat you'll have to use either white or black.  They should spray and go down the same way as regular scalefinish paints.  15-20PSI 3-4 light -medium coats 5-10mins apart never do wet coats, and they dry so doesn't take long for whatever clear you decide to use. 

[Duke Savage]

9 hours ago, Dpate said:

Depending on what Didspade paint you got determines what base coat you'll have to use either white or black.  They should spray and go down the same way as regular scalefinish paints.  15-20PSI 3-4 light -medium coats 5-10mins apart never do wet coats, and they dry so doesn't take long for whatever clear you decide to use. 

Thanks for your response, why no wet coats? what about their primer, it seems awfully thin. so, after I Prime coat ...wait a day...And then base coat....color coat

...clear coat all in one day? How close should the airbrush be to a avoid laying down a wet coat without the paint drying out before it hits surface?

[Dpate]

4 hours ago, Duke Savage said:

Thanks for your response, why no wet coats? what about their primer, it seems awfully thin. so, after I Prime coat ...wait a day...And then base coat....color coat

...clear coat all in one day? How close should the airbrush be to a avoid laying down a wet coat without the paint drying out before it hits surface?

No wet coats because these are automotive 2 stage paints i.e base coat and than clear coat.  I own there primer but haven't used it and it's kind of tricky to use so i heard.  Basically light coats of the primer 5 mins apart building it up, it's not the same as Mr surfacer or tamiya etc. You could wait a day on the primer to be safe if you don't have a dehydrator, and depending on temp and humidity in the room.  There paints dry super quick, and lacquers don't cure like enamels so after base coat is down after like 20 mins or so you could start clear coating.  I'd say about a good 3 inches or so away from the model without being wet and not being to far for it to dry mid air.  But distance is really something you'll have to figure out because set ups are different etc etc.  You could practice on a spoon or a test body, but .3 or .5 needle 15-20 PSI bout 3 inches away should work good depending on what airbrush you got. But you never wanna do wet coats with automotive paints because there hot paints, and can cause some damage even with a good primer. 

[Duke Savage]

Boy! this sure is a different animal. Allways seamed that in airbrushing wet was the way to go to keep the texture away. Did do a little bit of testing and my

results were less than acceptable. Kinda freaked me out. Painting is my biggest Achilles heel. Do Not Have the Patience. and even though I know this, I still push it.

Anyhow I'm using an Iwata eclipse just changed the .3 to the .5 that's what I tested with. Would you go back to the .3 for better control of spray wetness and movement? 

I have been a on and off again modeler I guess now for thirty years and still learning. Can't thank you enough for this advice. Will follow it to the rule, because this paint

is not cheap. 

Thanks Again!

Mel Hall

[Dpate]

.3 or .5 wont matter just means more paint flow with a .5, but it's all about the trigger control too and technique.  I own that brush and use it daily and upgraded mine to a .5 as well even though it's not needed for regular paint it helps with primer etc.  If you're spraying wet that means you're either too close or you're pulling to far back on the trigger.  If you're serious about airbrushing especially with a dual action brush a good technique to learn is not treating it like a single action.  What i mean is you push down for air, and pull back for paint, and instead of letting go of the trigger you keep it pressed down, and push forwards.  You always have the air going never letting off the air.  It's a muscle memory and can be tricky to learn at first, but once you get it - it'll be like 2nd nature to you.  But again down for air pull back for paint and back forward for air never letting go of the trigger doing that one steady motion as you're painting.  

Do you have any other paint's to use for airbrushing that you can thin down or already airbrush ready? That way you don't waste expensive paint. 

[Duke Savage]

Your right! It is all about technique. Which I need to develop to spray this paint right. That is exactly how I was use it like my old badger 200. Do have some paint I can thin down and practice, which I really never took the time to do with the Iwata...practice. Need to put in some leg work! Think I will pull out an old mule and go to town. Going to practice with both tips with different types of paint.

Thanks for all your insight and help 

Mel

[Dpate]

14 hours ago, Duke Savage said:

Your right! It is all about technique. Which I need to develop to spray this paint right. That is exactly how I was use it like my old badger 200. Do have some paint I can thin down and practice, which I really never took the time to do with the Iwata...practice. Need to put in some leg work! Think I will pull out an old mule and go to town. Going to practice with both tips with different types of paint.

Thanks for all your insight and help 

Mel

Yeah i started in this hobby using a airbrush the iwata eclipse to be exact and now i own 4 air brushes.  You really don't have to practice with both size needles, because whatever you can do with a .3 you can do with a .5.  Only difference is a .5 can allow thicker paints to go through with less thinning, and is great for certain metallic paints etc.  That would be kind of annoying changing the needle packing etc each time lol.  You can always adjust the adjuster on the end of the brush too that'll help with trigger control.  Scalefinishes paints are easy to paint, but an easier approach would of been Tamiya X-XF line up or there best line up there LP series.  There paint's are very forgiving especially thinned with mr leveling thinner - it'll make any rookie look like a pro lol.  If you're ever in the market for the best semi-gloss black that'll be Tamiya's LP-5 in my humble opinion. 

[tbill]

I did a mercury body a couple weeks ago with the colorshift paint from scale finishes, iwata neo with a  .35 needle, 20-30 psi, painted it as I would with a spray can, came out pretty good. I just used the same technique as my spray bomb jobs. I used Tamiya ts-13 clear