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Posted

Restoration of a started glue bomb I acquired about 30 years ago. New rear suspension, axles, wheels  and motor. Frame was stripped and repaired along with interior, cab hood sleeper. The doors were installed backwards in the sleeper therefore required removing and reinstalling. Thanks for looking

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  • Like 5
  • 3 months later...
  • 11 months later...
Posted (edited)

I’ve spent some time on finishing this one up. It is set up as a multipe use day cab with the removable log bunk/headache rack and able to switch to fifth wheel. Again experimenting with weathering and it’s certainly a fine art as well as a fine line. Any advice or suggestions welcome. Still a couple small details and paint. The hood doesn’t quite line up just like the real one (been rode hard). And best of all, I did not lose the hood ornament. It has been under lock and key to be installed last. Thanks for looking.

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Edited by cdntrucking
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  • Like 3
Posted

Great looking restoration, Lewis - such a familiar site when I used to live in the interior of British Columbia.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

I’ll take you at your word when you said advice or suggestions welcome😜. As a guy fond of weathering, my own golden rule is “less is more”. These trucks can cost a better part of a million dollars, so owners don’t like to see them looking like mud-boggers. To say nothing of getting a ticket for pelting motorists with rocks and mud! The Tamiya line of weathering chalks are reasonably cheap and produce subtle effects. You apply them with a make-up foam wedge available at any grocery store, and fix in place with matte clear coat. Dry brushing is another simple technique to bring out the tire lettering and edges - experiment on some spares. I like Tamiya buff on an old brush almost dry. Pin washes with dilute flat black can make panel lines pop and there are specific panel line washes for sale if you don’t want to mix your own. A TINY bit of gloss black carefully applied is great for oil stains around the engine or greased joints. Another technique is to experiment with “streaking” - there are YouTube videos on that - but it involves oil paint like burnt umber, applied very sparingly, thinned with appropriate solvent, and drawn downward across body parts where rain would naturally streak dirt. Or fuel filler necks - but again - less is more. I’ve seen some model fuel tanks looking like the trucker got more on the ground than in the tank! I see you’ve done a nice job on your fuel tanks there and even have the rubber gasket under the strap. Your trailer main beam also looks nicely detailed with some chipping where the air hose supports rub. You might want to try some powder on the air hoses to damp down the dark black. A standard trick which can look great is to mask the windshield wiper pathway and lightly fog a dusty colour with your airbrush. Peel off the mask and you’ve got shiny ‘glass’ where it would realistically be. This may be too late for you as your wiper blades are already in place.  Chipping and rust are advanced techniques which need practice - but both can be used to great effect when done right. AK makes an extensive line of rust products - and it goes without saying but I’ll say it anyways - consult 1:1 pictures to see where rust realistically develops - usually high wear points on steel parts. Careful - fibreglass and aluminum don’t rust - I’ve seen attempts to ‘rust’ fibreglass hoods and aluminum fuel tanks and the like. Oops! I hope these little suggestions help Lewis. This is a great build - clean, visually interesting and great colour selection. A tiny bit of weathering would be the finishing touch. Thanks for entertaining my suggestions. 

Edited by Bren
  • Like 1
Posted

Wow. This turned out really sweet ! The color combo is perfect. What color is the cab? Yes , gold 🤭but what paint did you use? It layed down perfectly and is the perfect color along with the red frame. I have a set of those stripes and never thought they looked very good until now. They look absolutely perfect with the gold and brown fenders.  I notice the front rims as well. Did you use rims from the snap kit as they are good looking Alcoa style.  End result is just wonderful. Good job !

  • Like 1
Posted
6 hours ago, Bren said:

I’ll take you at your word when you said advice or suggestions welcome😜. As a guy fond of weathering, my own golden rule is “less is more”. These trucks can cost a better part of a million dollars, so owners don’t like to see them looking like mud-boggers. To say nothing of getting a ticket for pelting motorists with rocks and mud! The Tamiya line of weathering chalks are reasonably cheap and produce subtle effects. You apply them with a make-up foam wedge available at any grocery store, and fix in place with matte clear coat. Dry brushing is another simple technique to bring out the tire lettering and edges - experiment on some spares. I like Tamiya buff on an old brush almost dry. Pin washes with dilute flat black can make panel lines pop and there are specific panel line washes for sale if you don’t want to mix your own. A TINY bit of gloss black carefully applied is great for oil stains around the engine or greased joints. Another technique is to experiment with “streaking” - there are YouTube videos on that - but it involves oil paint like burnt umber, applied very sparingly, thinned with appropriate solvent, and drawn downward across body parts where rain would naturally streak dirt. Or fuel filler necks - but again - less is more. I’ve seen some model fuel tanks looking like the trucker got more on the ground than in the tank! I see you’ve done a nice job on your fuel tanks there and even have the rubber gasket under the strap. Your trailer main beam also looks nicely detailed with some chipping where the air hose supports rub. You might want to try some powder on the air hoses to damp down the dark black. A standard trick which can look great is to mask the windshield wiper pathway and lightly fog a dusty colour with your airbrush. Peel off the mask and you’ve got shiny ‘glass’ where it would realistically be. This may be too late for you as your wiper blades are already in place.  Chipping and rust are advanced techniques which need practice - but both can be used to great effect when done right. AK makes an extensive line of rust products - and it goes without saying but I’ll say it anyways - consult 1:1 pictures to see where rust realistically develops - usually high wear points on steel parts. Careful - fibreglass and aluminum don’t rust - I’ve seen attempts to ‘rust’ fibreglass hoods and aluminum fuel tanks and the like. Oops! I hope these little suggestions help Lewis. This is a great build - clean, visually interesting and great colour selection. A tiny bit of weathering would be the finishing touch. Thanks for entertaining my suggestions. 

Thank you so much for looking, will definitely look into the weathering powders. I’m just experimenting with washes right now. Also using some artists pens, India ink for black details and panel lines. Lots to learn sometimes best by trial and error.

  • Like 1
Posted
6 hours ago, Biggu said:

Wow. This turned out really sweet ! The color combo is perfect. What color is the cab? Yes , gold 🤭but what paint did you use? It layed down perfectly and is the perfect color along with the red frame. I have a set of those stripes and never thought they looked very good until now. They look absolutely perfect with the gold and brown fenders.  I notice the front rims as well. Did you use rims from the snap kit as they are good looking Alcoa style.  End result is just wonderful. Good job !

Thank you, the gold is Testors acrylic out of a 1/4 ounce bottle airbrushed and testors brown hand brushed  over top. Front rims are from a ERTL IH cabover kit. The pole trailer used to be black and the reach was broken in half, suspension pivot was glued solid. Half the fun was rebuilding and getting it to work again.

  • Like 1

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