Fujimi's Koenig Specials Competition

[FujimiLover]

Hello there. While my MR2 is on the backburner, I decided to start my Koenig Specials Ferrari Testarossa Competition.

So my first step is to paint the main chassis parts flat black.

I'll let this dry for a few hours, flip it over, and paint the other side. I've built several of these model's before and their fairly quick builds. Most complicated part is the exaust systems downpipes to the exaust tips. However, I've learned a few tricks and think I'll use the quick CA-glue here as their very difficult to keep in place while normal glue dries.

I still have not yet decided what color to paint the exterior/interior. But chassis and engine get's built first anyway.

[FujimiLover]

I got the other side of the chassis painted,

today now that I have more cash, I'll be making a trip to the LHS to pick up some more paint.

I'm feeling a nice deep dark blue, maybe see if I can find a nice Boyd's color, two-tone tan/blue interior, and gold wheels.

I plan on getting flat-aluminum spray for the engine peices, tan spray for interior, flat blue for the interior accents, dull coat, and more gloss-coat, and that burnt-iron I'll eventually need for the Countach model.

I keep thinking of the color cobalt blue, but not sure if I can find it in spray paint. Might even check Pep Boyz for it.

[janositamas]

I also just started mine, not a bad kit, so I wish you good luck on it!

[Nick F40]

Wow, now this is cool. Koenig, yeah buddy

[FujimiLover]

Thank's guy's. This is my unicorn and I hope to god this one turns out perfect. Thank's to the suggestion with the engine color, it's looking great so far. Here are some photos for your drool.

After the primer dried on the chassis, I masked it off as best as I could, and painted the TS-30 Silver Leafe on it.

Then I continued to primer the other engine parts and main interior bucket.

After the primer dried on both sides, I sprayed the silver.

Then I cut off the interior bucket, and sprayed it Light Ivory. It's almost a creamy, vanillaly, yellow-ish whiteish color. You know, IVORY!

Then I started assembling the engine.

I'm going to have to touch up the engine part that's molded on the chassis as I didn't get some areas. Then, I'll mask off the engine completely, and repaint the flat-black where the silver oversprayed.

I really appreciate the suggetion's for this silver, it look's great! I highly recommend useing the black primer first, especially if your engine parts are molded in different colors like this one was.

Now, I have another question. I didn't realize that the Ivory was going to turn out glossy. How do I flatten it? I do have dull-coat, but not sure if that will actually "dull" the color. I noticed while painting my MR2 interior the dull coat, it just dried clear. I dont' think it "flattened" the color.

Edited April 8, 2009 by FujimiLover

[FujimiLover]

Another paint question. I will be painting the body, this color.

It is De Ja Blue, and it's as stated before a nice deep dark metallic blue color. Question regards to which color primer should I use? The body is molded in white, and I have white primer, gray primer, and flat-black primer. I'm thinking, I like how nice and smooth and professionally, the flat-black primer goes on and dries. I'm also thinking it will darken the blue quite nicely and might make it look closer to the car in this photo.

What do you think?

[FujimiLover]

I also just started mine, not a bad kit, so I wish you good luck on it!

If you have pictures, feel free to post'em here as you work. It will be interesting to see two of the same kit's be done differently.

[FujimiLover]

More engine parts primed both sides.

Mock-up of the interior with the engine on chassis. I masked off the Ivory to paint the rear vent's flat-black.

There's going to be very little blue accents on the interior. Probably just the steering wheel, gear knob, seat belts, and roll cage will be blue. Everything else Ivory.

[FujimiLover]

Here is a photo of the real car's engine.

The model kit has these lines and letterings molded onto it. As I've primered these parts, and will paint'em silver, how do I accomplish this result? I've previously painted red first, then tried to hand-paint the silver lines and lettering and it turned out horrible. You couldn't read anything.

So any suggestions on how to accomplish this finish? I've thought about those Testors paint-pens, but not sure how flat they are.

Edited April 8, 2009 by FujimiLover

[MrObsessive]

It is De Ja Blue, and it's as stated before a nice deep dark metallic blue color. Question regards to which color primer should I use? The body is molded in white, and I have white primer, gray primer, and flat-black primer.

That's totally up to you as it's your model.

To get an idea of the shade I would test a small sample on a junk body or some scrap plastic. In fact, it's always a good idea to test out paint you're not sure about to avoid surprises later.

In answer to your interior paint question, I wouldn't spray the dullcoat over the paint to dull it out. I've done this in the past and it always came out with a chalky appearance to it. You can try to repaint the interior with light coats with the dullcoat mixed in the paint----(airbrush required though). Other than that, the only way to dull down that color is to go over it lightly with some 600 grit sandpaper, and use flocking for the carpeting as that should be a flat color.

Tamiya makes an excellent water based acrylic buff color that would be correct for those Ferrari seats. Once again they're best put on with an airbrush, but I've seen guys hand paint them with good results.

[MrObsessive]

Here is a photo of the real car's engine.

The model kit has these lines and letterings molded onto it. As I've primered these parts, and will paint'em silver, how do I accomplish this result? I've previously painted red first, then tried to hand-paint the silver lines and lettering and it turned out horrible. You couldn't read anything.

So any suggestions on how to accomplish this finish? I've thought about those Testors paint-pens, but not sure how flat they are.

You can try using a silver sharpie to bring out those lines and lettering, or you could Bare Metal Foil those before you paint, and then lightly sand away the paint after it's cured fully revealing the details.

Testor's paint pens are too blunt for what you want, also the paint can run big time if you're not careful.

[FujimiLover]

Thank you, I'll look for the silver Sharpie. I forgot those were available in different colors and sizes. Would obviously want the smallest one possible. Yea, those paint-pens are hard to use on fine details like this. Unfortunetly, you have to press the foam-applicater down to get the paint to start flowing, and that's where it screws you up.

I think the bare-metal foil would be too difficult with these details. so I'll look for the Sharpie! What a sharp-idea!

Unfortunetly, for the body color, I dont' have any spare plastic to test on!

Edited April 8, 2009 by FujimiLover

[janositamas]

If you have pictures, feel free to post'em here as you work. It will be interesting to see two of the same kit's be done differently.

Thanks, here is what I have so far: the engine:

[FujimiLover]

Wow, look's good! How did you accomplish the lettering? What color are you painting your body/interior?

[FujimiLover]

Just got the red done and the other engine bit's painted silver, both sides.

I really like this silver for engine parts, I'll continue to use it on all my other models!

[Ken]

I really like this silver for engine parts, I'll continue to use it on all my other models!

What Bill meant by the Bare Metal Foil is cover the entire center of the part on the lower left with the foil. Burnish it down really well and then apply your red paint. After giving the paint a decent time to dry(a couple of days at least up to a couple weeks) take some fine sandpaper, 2000 grit or higher, and sand down the paint on the letters and such. You want to remove just enough paint to reveal the foil. I usually use a toothpick moistened with thinner to remove the paint. It is a bit more controlled then the sandpaper. I usually use flat toothpicks and wrap a small amount of fluff from a cotton ball around the tip. If you take your time and do it right, just the foil will appear and it will look like you were able to paint the raised parts.

[FujimiLover]

Thank you, but I found the silver Sharpie and will try that. If that look doesn't look right, I'll try the bare-metal on the Spyder version. My goal is to get the two identical color wise.

I tried the silver Sharpie. The color is really nice, but I'm afraid the red got too thick to show up the details here. One problem with paint-brushing I guess.

For the center peice, I sprayed it in Guards Red and it turned out nicer. I think the silver Sharpie should be able to work here. When I do the convertible, I'll spray the header covers, or whatever those side top's are. Spray seems to be thinner and evens out better than paint-brush.

Edited April 8, 2009 by FujimiLover

[LDO]

Another paint question. I will be painting the body, this color...It is De Ja Blue, and it's as stated before a nice deep dark metallic blue color. Question regards to which color primer should I use? The body is molded in white, and I have white primer, gray primer, and flat-black primer. I'm thinking, I like how nice and smooth and professionally, the flat-black primer goes on and dries. I'm also thinking it will darken the blue quite nicely and might make it look closer to the car in this photo.

What do you think?

Hey I like your color choice. I had that same kit almost 20 years ago and painted it Testors Arctic Blue Metallic (I believe that was the name of the color. It was a dark blue metallic).

I'd go with white or silver primer. IMHO, blue looks better when "bright". Check out Blu Tahiti on this Lamborghini Miura.

Edited April 9, 2009 by LDO

[B_rad88]

hey you guys those are nice blues but there is this tahiti blue on the rover mini cooper

then there is also this lemans blue on this jaguar xj220. i am thinking on painting this color on my tamiya jaguar xj220.

[B_rad88]

is there any one makes that lemans blue on the jaguar?

[FujimiLover]

I'll stick with the blue I've already got. However, when I black-primed the steering wheel, and painted it flat-blue, the blue was hardly noticeable on it at all. You can just see the blue when it's up against the Ivory, but not by itselfe. Not sure what to do with the steering wheel. Might go with a lighter blue?

[janositamas]

Wow, look's good! How did you accomplish the lettering? What color are you painting your body/interior?

Thank you mate! The lettering was done carefully with a silver sharpie, it's not that hard to do and worth a try. As for the body, it was painted metallic grey to match the Ferrari factory color Grigio Silverstone with black interior and red seats, but I didn't like it that much. So I decided to repaint it Rosso Corsa or Rosso Scuderia next week. Will post some pics if you would like to see them!

[FujimiLover]

Sure, by all means as this is the proper thread for this model kit. I had also thought of useing the metallic gray I painted my RX7 with, but I didn't think it would suit the Ferrari. Perhaps it would suit the Porsche 928 or the Mercedes. I just started assembling the chassis and interior.

I tell yea, I hate assembling the downpipes that come up from the bottom of the chassis. You know, those three peices you have to put together? What a pain!

Feel free to post pic's of your entire project from start to finish here. Like I said, it would be interesting to see two of the same kit's being put together in the same thread.

I'm thinking for the body, I'll use the flat-black primer as my base coat, then I'll be able to mask off the areas I wanted flat-black and then paint the blue. I'm not sure if I'll be able to mask off neatly the window trim, but I can definetly mask off the air-dam vent, the headlight buckets, and the rear engine cover vent. The window trim will probably be hand-painted.

Edited April 9, 2009 by FujimiLover

[B_rad88]

nice job so far!!!!! and i can tell the blue on the steering wheel it looks sweet! kinda like alcantara (seriously expensive marterial!)

[FujimiLover]

Thank's! I just finished the chassis and engine. Work's a little better with CA glue then with the slow-drying glue.

Interior done, just need to do the roll cage.

I mounted the rear wheels, and started to mount the front wheels, but I was dumb and didnt' wait for the glue to dry on the disk-brake and wheel hub peice. So, had to use CA glue to get the parts to hold. I dont' know if the front wheels will spin or turn yet. But since it's a model, I dont' think it matters much. I have yet to decide if I want to paint the wheels gold or leave'em silver.

Next step is the body which I'm nervous about cause I've never used this Laqure paint before, well, except for clear coats.

One thing with assembling all these exaust pipes and downpipes and what not, is it's awefully tough to get'em to line up properly while drying. Again, CA glue helps alot here, as well as the insta-cure spray. Just make sure your satisfied with the line-up before spraying the insta-cure on.

Edited April 9, 2009 by FujimiLover