Porsche Carrera GT

[Scale-Master]

I’ve been working on this (more off than on actually) for a little while. So far it seems to be a very nice kit, fit and overall cleanliness of detail. Just an OOB build, here’s some in-progress photos…

[janositamas]

Professional work so far, and very good attention to details!

[crispy]

Beautiful work Mark. Look forward to seeing this under glass.

Was hoping you could fill me in on how you laid the CF decals own so well. Seems to be my Achilles heel for decaling right now. I've been practicing on small stuff, but would like to learn other methods to see what works for me.

Very clean.

Chris

[FujimiLover]

That's the kind of detail work I'd like to accomplish!

[Raul_Perez]

That's coming along very nicely, Mark!!

All the details look right on the money!!

Thanks for sharing,

[Hizoot]

I know that's OOB for the most part but it packs a punch..!

I luv that modern interior with the aluminum accents & as always, your craftsmanship is 1st rate..! Can't wait to see this finished Mark, well done.

Hizoot

[ajulia]

Yikes!! What a looker' Even without the shell so far!!! Excellent detailing and the interior rocks!!! Keep on wit the keepin on!!

peace

ajulia

[FujimiLover]

I think you should build a second one and replicate this chassis exactly and display the chassis alone next to the completed car, that would be cool! Maybe scratch-build one of those display systems they have at autoshows show-caseing the chassis alone?

Edited April 22, 2009 by FujimiLover

[MyBradKeselowski]

very nice detail, I like what I C

thumbs up...

[Nick F40]

awwwww yes!!!

[Scale-Master]

Thanks everyone!

As for the C/F:

I used the Scale Motor Sports HiDef C/F and Mr. Mark Softer by Gunze Sangyo for decal solvent. There really is no secret or trick, just a little planning and patience. But this is how I did it and you may find some points useful.

When I cut out the odder shapes for the rear engine area, I paid attention to the “grain†of the printed pattern and left a little extra material around all edges.

To apply them, I started at the front and worked towards the rear.

After dipping the decals in water, I let them completely release from the paper before attempting to slide them onto the model. This can take as long as five minutes, but even if you wait five minutes longer than you need to, it won’t hurt them.

Once they were put in place on the model, I applied the Mr. Mark Softer (hey, I didn’t make up the name…) to the edges on both sides (top and bottom) and waited a few minutes for it to soften the decal.

I used a soft brush and Q-tips to form the decals to the parts. Once it was how I wanted it, I hit it with a hairdryer on high for a few to several seconds. This causes the decals to really suck down and conform. Plus it speeds up the waiting between applications.

Once all the decaling was done, I clear coated them with a thin layer of urethane.

As for building part of another one to display with it:

What would I do with the left over parts? I figure these pictures are enough to show what it has in it. I'd rather build another complete something else first...

[crispy]

Mark, thanks for taking the time to fill me in on your methods. I enjoy decaling, but CF decals and the obscene curves have me frustrated at times.

I'll try your method and see what happens. I definitely need to do the hair dryer trick though. That would really help me I think.

Look forward to more updates!

Chris