absmiami Posted July 22 Author Posted July 22 Some more mods for a better fit within the tail - the rear gear case cover is simplified and trimmed - and a brace added for the support bracket for the exhausts - mite still need to take a scale inch or two out of the length of the transaxle casting …
absmiami Posted July 24 Author Posted July 24 You’re probably thinking that i’ve abandoned the Lotus kit entirely - au contrare - the uprights fr and rear are usable with these mods …
absmiami Posted July 24 Author Posted July 24 Front uprights - will have to shape some tie rod posts … and make some brake discs -
absmiami Posted July 27 Author Posted July 27 Spa is such a great circuit - top of my bucket list …. Lots of stuff to make in front of the foot box …
absmiami Posted July 27 Author Posted July 27 Will use the Girling brake castings that Norman made for me for the 18 …. And i’ve got to make some brake discs - in the mean time …
absmiami Posted July 27 Author Posted July 27 Back to the … front …. The resin Joker Lotus kit contributes a resin radiator casting that has the correct size and shape to fit within the white metal nose casting fr the Auto-Kits 25 - with some detail mods - the white stuff is Evergreen …
absmiami Posted July 28 Author Posted July 28 In between the radiator and the footbox is an oil tank that feeds an oil radiator - thats integrated into the left hand portion of the radiator shell - made fr Evergreen strip - mostly a sandwich of .125 by .250 … i’ve pegged it to the base of the footbox - thats a guess as my many photos fail to show just exactly how it was attached …
absmiami Posted July 29 Author Posted July 29 Air ducts left and right - made with Evergreen channel strip and tube - one of the curious things about the first or early 25s is that there were no visible radiator sub-frames - it appears that Chapman thought that the radiator was adequately supported by the water hoses and the airducts - but the subframes soon appeared - and all of the survivors have them - another example of commen sense over Chapman …
absmiami Posted July 29 Author Posted July 29 Suspension members : the lower fromt A arms were soldered w silver solder - using .040 nickel silver tube, with short lengths of .060 and .047 tube for the joints - this was tricky because none of the published chassis plans have susp overhead susp drawings - so the first part required multiple attempts to find the correct angles - the second one will be easier …
absmiami Posted July 29 Author Posted July 29 Well - actually the early Road & Track drawings did include an overhead with susp drawings but it turns out that the fr susp drawing wasn’t accurate - the included angle was too narrow …
BK9300 Posted July 30 Posted July 30 This is spectacular work, Andrew - amazing amount of detail you fit into the suspension pieces (and other parts of model as well!)
absmiami Posted July 30 Author Posted July 30 (edited) Not enough solder in the joint - even though i’m using silver solder …. But i managed a repair and then soldered up the left side arm … checked the width - i’ll get real close to spec tread width … Edited July 30 by absmiami My phone is an idiot
absmiami Posted August 1 Author Posted August 1 The oil tank and the fuel filler pipes that feed both left and right fuel tanks both have a hand cap that is cast with hand grip markings - here’s the oil tank …
absmiami Posted August 1 Author Posted August 1 (edited) And here’s the fuel filler cap … now the question is how to mark or impress the pattern on to the sides of the cap in small scale ? Sherline offers some tools that can be used to emboss a cross-hatched pattern on to metal rod - but i think the pattern is a bit over scale for 24th …. Edited August 1 by absmiami
absmiami Posted August 1 Author Posted August 1 Since i’m replacing and making my own susp parts for both the Lotus 25 and the Lotus 38 - ive got some spare parts to canabilize -
absmiami Posted August 1 Author Posted August 1 (edited) While metal is soft - so i can’t machine it - but i can turn these scraps into reasonably useful rods - and i can file and sand these with hand tools - Edited August 1 by absmiami
absmiami Posted August 1 Author Posted August 1 Once the rod has a slot filed to make a stem - i placed the rod on a hard surface and rolled a file over the cap end to leave the markings on the cap … here’s the results of the first experiment …
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