65 Impala

[speedy5963]

This kit is built using most the stock parts along with a chrome kit I purchased as well for a lot of suspension parts and engine parts. The wheels and steering wheel are from M.A.S and the interior is flocked with charcol and black flocking following the stock paterns. The paint is a PPG Chevy blue metalic that we had laying around in the shed.

Edited May 13, 2009 by speedy5963

[RJWood]

Great looking Chevy.

Looks like the one my dad owned back in the day.

Seems as though you like Chevy Impalas, Me too.

[speedy5963]

Great looking Chevy.

Looks like the one my dad owned back in the day.

Seems as though you like Chevy Impalas, Me too.

Thank you for the comment! I do like the Chevy's in general and this was a fun kit to build!

[Foxer]

That looks good I have a soft spot for 65 Impalas as a good friend bought one when new .. don't ask when this was! ... and I made a model of his from an AMT kit annual. I especially like the back end treatment.

Now, I'm hoping this will be taken as a helpful hint, but just trying to help you show off your hard work easier. This may seem overly technical, but it will be really simple to take my recommendations into practice and I think you'll be surprised at the photos you get.Your camera seems to be taking control during your photo shoots and it's not doing a great job. Most all cameras need some coaxing in these close up scale pictures. I see you have a Sony DSC-P93 camera ... I have ways of getting this info out of you!

The problem I see is the camera always is focusing at the far end of the model, but the real thing is, not all of the car is in focus. This is partly due to the photo being taken by the camera at a wide open lens aperture of f2.8. This simply means the camera is opening wide to let in as much light as possible. The effect of this is the depth of field is small at this opening, meaning the distance in focus is very small .. less than the length of the car. The reason the camera is opening wide is due to the amount of light on the subject. If you can get more light this will improve, Even a small desk lamp close to the model will help or outdoors will make a big difference. Additionally, your camera allows you to set manual exposure modes by speed or aperture. Yo want to set aperture priority mode and set the aperture to the largest number, on most cameras this a number close to 16. This will let in less light so you will need even more light on the subject, but more of the car will be in focus. This almost always requires a tripod to prevent the camera shaking as the exposure time will become long. You can just prop the camera on a book or beanbag or some object to steady it.

The second item, and you may already know this is your camera has a macro mode to allow it to focus closer. It seems you must have used this but the depth of field problem above is just not focusing enough of the car. When you do focus, try to get it to focus near the middle of the car of a little off middle towards the camera to maximize the area in focus.

Don't know your camera knowledge, so if I'm telling you what you already know just ignore me..

[speedy5963]

Don't know your camera knowledge, so if I'm telling you what you already know just ignore me..

Thank you for all the insight! I have a Sony 5.1 mega pixel cyber shot. I do not know if this has a macro lens? I have a Cannon I purchased about a year later and it doesn't work as well for models. I was just going over some of this with a friend at work today and he took a few shots of my 63, 65 el camino and 40 sedan delivery, please take a look at those pics and I think you can tell which ones he took and which ones I took We didn't have the greatest lighting or spot as we were in the file room but the clarity is much better. I will have to go through settings and such on this or eventually get a better camera. Thank you though for all the insight!