68 Dodge Dart factory underbody finish.

[STU111]

G’day all,    I’ve just started the Revell 68 Dart kit and I’m looking to build it factory original. I can’t seem to find any definitive info regarding the underbody finish off the production line. I know that it can vary depending on the assembly line worker, but are there any Mopar fans on the forum who can provide some information about what the usual finish was? Any assistance is greatly appreciated. Thank you. Cheers, Stuart.

[Chris V]

In general a ‘68 would have been medium grey primer with body color overspray along the sides.

[Keef]

As Chris said, medium gray primer with body colored overspray on the sides. I have seen some Mopars of that era that had undercoating in the front and rear fender wells as well as the driveshaft tunnel.

Heres a picture I found on google of another members build from several years ago. 

[STU111]

Thanks guys, I understand that underbody finish can be quite variable depending upon the day, assembly line worker etc, but this gives me something to work from. Much appreciated. 👍🏻

[johnyrotten]

I check out forums for survivor cars, try checking out "for A bodies only.com" .

[1972coronet]

Wheel wells should have 'blackout' ( Tamiya's NATO Black is a great match ) , as does the radiator core support (about 1/2 - 3/4 of the way-up ) , and sometimes the transmission / driveshaft tunnel. 

Light or dark grey primer ; sometimes red oxide... sometimes both ! on the floor pans ( underside, et al. ) with varying degrees of body colour along rockers (as seen in the image shared above ).

I'm presuming that you're building the 383 or 440 model. If so, here's a couple of more tips for a factory appearance :

- 440 models were special order. Their batteries were mounted in the boot. 

- 383 models had the battery on the left shear panel.

Engine colours for the 383 and the 440 was Chrysler Engine Turquoise ( on your own on mixing that -- maybe it's available in your locale ? ).

There's other gnat's arse details, but they're mostly irrelevant to the 1/25 scale realm.

EDIT : 

If you're planning to replicate the 426 Hemi version , it's a completely different animal. 

- ZERO undercoating 

- Radiused rear wheel arches 

- No console 

- Automatics came with the Hurst Dual-Gate shifter & consolette ; 4-speeds have a reverse-lockout lever jutting-off the the right

- Non-assist disc brakes 

- 7 paddle fan with clutch , no shroud 

- Interior is stripped down ; no window cranks, no radio, no heater, no rear arm rests. 

Edited 13 hours ago by 1972coronet
AMENDMENT

[gtx6970]

12 hours ago, 1972coronet said:

Wheel wells should have 'blackout' ( Tamiya's NATO Black is a great match ) , as does the radiator core support (about 1/2 - 3/4 of the way-up ) , and sometimes the transmission / driveshaft tunnel. 

Light or dark grey primer ; sometimes red oxide... sometimes both ! on the floor pans ( underside, et al. ) with varying degrees of body colour along rockers (as seen in the image shared above ).

I'm presuming that you're building the 383 or 440 model. If so, here's a couple of more tips for a factory appearance :

- 440 models were special order. Their batteries were mounted in the boot. 

- 383 models had the battery on the left shear panel.

Engine colours for the 383 and the 440 was Chrysler Engine Turquoise ( on your own on mixing that -- maybe it's available in your locale ? ).

There's other gnat's arse details, but they're mostly irrelevant to the 1/25 scale realm.

EDIT : 

If you're planning to replicate the 426 Hemi version , it's a completely different animal. 

- ZERO undercoating 

- Radiused rear wheel arches 

- No console 

- Automatics came with the Hurst Dual-Gate shifter & consolette ; 4-speeds have a reverse-lockout lever jutting-off the the right

- Non-assist disc brakes 

- 7 paddle fan with clutch , no shroud 

- Interior is stripped down ; no window cranks, no radio, no heater, no rear arm rests. 

Im not so sure the batteries are in the trunk on 440 cars 

 

Hemi cars yes.