I think I want to learn to cast--

[jfh]

but I need some help in reading up on doing it. IOW, the posts here are more knowledge than I need right now, it seems to me.

googling on the 'net itself hasn't helped; or at least I don't think they help--I really am not interested in learning to stick four-leaf clovers into amulets; I may want to make, for example, flathead v8 engine parts.

But, I am starting at ground zero, so if anyone has a recommendation on what / where to read, etc., I would appreciate it. Once I get going, I can then ask the more-typical newbie questions, I think....

Jim H.

[old-hermit]

Start here

http://www.alumilite.com/howtos.cfm

http://www.alumilite.com/FAQ.cfm

.

Edited July 16, 2009 by old-hermit

[jfh]

thank you. I'm already adding favorites and printing instructions to read....

Jim H.

[Eshaver]

J second the Aluminite Kit idea for te simple reason tat you mentioned Ford Flat head pieces . Look I still work on Flat heads ! I own a 53 Ford truck too. Yep , Mabellene an me been together fer twenty something years . I have driven it from Richmond Va to Dallas Texas and back five times too . Hey try some one piece " Slush " molds first . then if the feel for doing morecomlicated stuff gets to you contact a company called Synair . They manufacture several Epoxy resins used in the dental and Taxidermy industry . I found their products to be better tan Aluminite for some jobs and Smoot-on avalible from Mico Mark is said to be a reliable resin too . In a pinckh I havemade one piece molds and crammed in Bondo too ! Hey for something that dosent need too much detail, dries fast and works with Super Glue too . Ed Shaver

[Smart-Resins]

I would also suggest the alumilite to start with. if you want to get into it further from there, I would suggest the smooth cast line of casting resin as it is cheaper, has a longer pot life and comes out smoother. In bulk form is also cheaper. But to learn how to do it and keep things simple, the alumilite is where I started and would suggest for you as well. They have a forum for support as well. Start with simple one part molds. KISS idea! Once ya mastered that, then go to the 2 part molds. They can be tricky sometimes. I still mess up on mine occasionally. Thanks. jody

[RyanSilva]

I only use Smooth-on products. I do not bother buying the "starter kits"

Eventually Id suggest a pressure paint pot, turned into a pressure reservoir. Although I started with one from the get go. it dramatically reduced the amount of parts that are trash, pressure forces the resin into the lug nut details and finned details etc, and less air bubbles, most cases zero bubbles or pin holes.

Harbour freight has 2 1/2 gallon paint pressure pots for 80 dollars...use a 20% coupon on it for it to be cheaper. Gonna need a 1/4inch air fitting plug, to block one of the holes, and a 3/8th air fitting plug to close another hole. after that you are ready to go.

Naturally resin casting costs a bit more up front, but started with a pressure pot reduces the amount of trashed parts, some will argue this and say "you dont NEED it" but hey..for me and many others it is the only way. (cheaper compared to other ways also) You save money in the long run.

I only buy my silicone and resin from www.theengineerguy.com Fedex shipping is accurate, he does not gouge on the prices, nelson is the man!

Popsicle sticks are awesome stirring sticks. Can buy them cheap in bulk 100count bags at craft shops. You will go through many.

You will often find some 1:1 (volume) silicone's, those are nice for ease of first time use, but they aren't as durable as 10:1 mix ratio silicone's (by weight). By durable, I mean two things.

As resin cures in your mold, it slowly deteriorates the silicone surface each cast, eventually the resin will start pulling up chunks on your mold (most often with 1:1 silicone's, then there is tear resistance, eventually the silicone will split, so taking care of the molds is a major factor..however it is easy, and not overwhelming to a first time caster.

Mold release will make your mold last longer, and reduce the pulling. A simple petroleum jelly and mineral spirit mixture is a easy way of making a thin brush on mold rease, or you can get a dry silicone in a spray can for around 12 dollars.

A cheap gram scale can be found at target for 6.99, or you can get a digital for much more money. I use the 6.99 one for now. Works just fine.

I recommend smooth-on oomoo 30 for the first time..reson why it is very simple to use and to get you to know and see the basics. Or you can jump right in and get the 10:1 mix ratio by weight silicone, much stronger and longer lasting than oomoo, costs the same just a little harder to use (by hard I mean you need to weigh it..simple), and smoothcast 320 or 321 for resin. Most is self preference, some except color pigments more than others.

Again I recommend the pressure pot, you will get professional quality castings, or close to it.

Edited July 17, 2009 by RyanSilva

[jfh]

Faster responses than I thought I'd get. I like the feel of this board already--

I'll ramble a bit more here. I really am getting back into the swing of 'serious' model-building, I think. I'm more-than-a-bit of a tool guy--have been a remodelling contractor, computer-case-modifier (had an online VAR business for awhile), and most recently a gunny-type reloader and do my own handgun amateur gunsmithing. At any rate, I am now semi-retired and heading back into fun stuff as well--like building models. I have a decent set of small-craft tools, and even some specialized model-building ones. (Including an used compressor and air brush).

I'm about one cut above an amateur, I think, and I am still learning good fundamentals. For car kits, I've finished up a '67 Mustang, Datsun 510, PT Cruiser, and a couple of Cobras I started about five years ago and then set aside when perfectionism reared up and I wasn't courageous enough to run a rattle-can. At least, these kits are at the 95% level--still need paint cleanup and polish, and maybe some details.

Right now I am working on a couple more Cobras--and concentrating on those fundamentals. However, I also discovered 'detailing'--and the wonderful resources for all those neat items--but: I'd rather learn how to do some stuff myself. My dashes now look OK for an amateur, and the seat belts are coming out OK, I think--and the other funky details I had in my 1:1 vehicles I've even scratch-built--e.g., mudflaps, maybe, and a console box, add-on gauges--that sort of thing.

For example, while I work on building up parts boxes, I now will shift gears slightly and start on some thirties' fords--but I want to stay with flatheads, I think. Kits I am gathering may not include flathead engines--or may have non-stock engine parts, etc., etc.

Is it realistic to consider doing my own casting for some of these parts--for example, exhaust headers, or a carb? Air Cleaner? I know I can buy them, but learning to cast for me would fit into that category of 'teaching someone to fish....'

That's the overview for now--please chime in if you think you can help direct me a bit here.

Jim H.

[RyanSilva]

Most of my resin casting is for myself and close friends, although I do sell some of my mastered items..or really uncommon parts.

Some will argue the point that "the money you spend on all your resin supplies, you can just buy the kits you need" true..but getting one kit, say the 1950 ford f100 ardun flathead, casting those parts for yourself would save you money in the long run and more fun to boot!

For wheels, I usually lay down one or two of the same wheel, and about 6 different wheels on one sheet, then pour my silicone, Now I got a mold of multiple wheels I can cast at any time, It will take 2-4 pours to get a complete set, but I get a variety of wheels to the collection.

Same thing for flathead parts, Ive casted manyintake setups and head setups for one block, stromberg carbs too. It is fun!

[Smart-Resins]

I will second the pot here. I got mine at 50% off through harbor frieght. $45 shipped that was.Great tool! I use the mold max 30 rubber with the 325 series resin. The mold max by smooth on is a 10:1 and very easy stuff to use. Its a overnight cure (24 hours) and the 325 series resin is a white resin wich has a longer pot life. By pot life, we mean the amount of time it gives you to fully mix, pour into your mold, pop air bubbles if any and close your presuure pot and put the air to it! The pot life was the big killer to the Alumilite stuff for me! You had to stir quickly, then quickly pour. No time for popping air bubbles as you had to rush to get it into the pot ontime! So the smooth cast will allow you to get better quality castings. Ryan has done a wonderful job t the introductery parts! I will add that I got a digital scale through harbor freight I think for $10 shipped! I get a lot of my products through misterart.com The craft sticks for a 100 count is around $10 bucks. I save money on those by using both ends! Once I have used both ends, I cut them in half, giving me two more ends. So I can get 4 uses out of one stick, so 400 uses out of a box! They will last a long time that way. One thing I did not see Ryan mention though is the measuring cups! You can get these in bulk as well!I reuse mine when possible! the ones for the resin, when the left over resin cures, I pull it out and reuse the cup. On the rubber side of things, when that cures, I pull that out as well. On the cup that has the goopy red stuff in it, its better to toss those! LOL> Also, on any molds that go south on you, you can cut/grind them up and use them on some molds like the inside of car bodies ect. to cut down on costs. Or on the second half of a mold wich is the back side of a rim or so. Now I find using powder in you molds can increase the crispness of the resin. Regular baby powder can be used. Also, heating the molds up in the microwave for a minute can also help crispness of the resin. By doing these, you can very simply get aftermarket quality casting just about everytime! Downfall to the heat, it will break your mold down faster! I do not do the mold release on single part molds and they will last me around 20-30 castings. The mold release Ryan talked about can increase the molds life!. I am just lazy in that department! Now onto the things you can cast. Exhaust pipes can be very tricky boogers to cast and will take a two part mold. You do this by using clay on one half and making up a mold box. For a first timer, I would certainly say no! I have been casting for over 2 years now and they are still tricky to me! Engine blocks and intakes and heads, valve covers ect. can all be done by simple one part molds, or if you want to do solid one piece blocks, with a simple two part mold!I find it better to do as much in one part molds as possible to make them easier! Ryan may argue? I have seen some of his stuff here and there and he does some nice stuff. its all about how easily you learn and how you fell about it and can do it!Its just like modeling, we all have our own levels! I really do wish you the best of luck! Many of us do it primarily for ourselves. I started with that intention, then decided I would try to go pro. My ideas were bigger then my head! LOL. it can become a very large burden to do aftermarket!! KIS!! Also, to give you a little insight, a good guy around here, Chris Buck shared a tutorial with me on a body wich helped me some! He gave me his blessings to share it, so here is a link to my forum where I have it. I hope it helps you too! Jody

http://kustomcarz.proboards.com/index.cgi?...&thread=124

[jeffb]

lotta really great info being shared. bout the only thing i can add is i get my sticks at the dolla store. 100 fer a buck. for resin cups i use puddin snak cups. theyre sometimes 4 fer a buck, and my dog likes the puddin. as far as using silicone as a release agent, it takes some work getting the stuff off te part youve cast. also. if you spray it anywhere near where you paint, it gets all over everything causing fisheyes.

[cnaind]

Start slow & work up to it. For one piece molds, you should be OK without the pressure pot. I use the Harbor Freight pot also & it works fine. I have a short photo how-to of a 2 piece mold I made for casting an Allison cylinder head at my Fotki site - http://public.fotki.com/cnaind/

You can make the same part from a one piece mold, it just won't be hollow. For most small parts, that doesn't matter. I also am a stocking distributor for Alumilite (20% off) & can provide phone or email support for any questions/problems that may occur. The regular tan Alumiilite has a 90 second pot life(very short) but is good for small, one piece molds. The white Alumilite has about a 3 minute pot life, which allows more time for 2 piece or large molds. There are also 2 basic kinds of mold rubber - firm & flexible. I like the firm for smaller parts (like the cylinder head). The flexible is for more complex & larger shapes (bodies). It also works best with pressure. Hope this helps.

[BigPoppa]

http://www.layitlow.com/forums/index.php?s...=460735&hl=

little step by step I did a while back. I use Smooth-On as well. I tried one of those Aluminite starters kits and junked it pretty quick. I have a Harbor Freight pressure pot too.

[jeffb]

i have three pots. one is a sears tank. had it for over 10 years, had to replace the seal once. the other two are both general pnumatics, one is from harbor frieght. its not the best, wont go higher than 30psi without leaking. but it gets the job done. the black one i got from a bud. not sure where he bought it , but it works great and is coated with teflon. makes it a lot easier to remove resin splatters.

[jfh]

Thanks, you guys, for the latest responses. I've been studying the links, but I am not at the spot to sort out a resin purchase list and a first subject yet.

FWIW--

I have now gathered a number of the Thirties' Ford kits that have flatheads in them. (Actually, they range from the Revell '32 Ford Sedan all the way up to the Revell '48 Ford convertible.) Two of these kits are 1:24; the others are 1:25.

Obviously I have a fair number of different engine parts--i.e., various headers, manifolds, carbs, distributors, etc., and now I have to do my kit selection for the build. Once I get that sorted out, I can figure out what I may want to do to the parts for that engine so it will be a bone-stock build.

I have some free time coming up over the next three days, I think, so I may be able to get the casting knowledge enough into my head to ask some real questions.

Jim H.

[RyanSilva]

Hey Jim don't forget the 1950 F1 pickup 2 n 1 from revell. Get the newer one, it has a ardun flathead setup (pretty correct too if you get the newer 2n1 box..truck is yellow on box art.