"Fixing" Revell's '32 Ford frame?

[Patrick K.]

Alright. I'm about ready to open and build this new Ford coupe. Then I go and read for the umpteenth time, that the frame is "inaccurate". Probably never hearing this, I'd never have given it a second thought or notice. However, being fairly retentive, and building mainly factory "stock". I'd like to know for my own benefit, without purchasing a Rep and Min "corrected" frame. What the differences actually are and what it entails to clean them up. I understand about removing the mold lines and general cleaning up of the kit frame. I just want to know what Henry Ford would "frown" at if he were to see it. TIA

[Patrick K.]

It's a quick fix. It's also a fix that if you don't do it, 97.9% of the general model building public won't even notice.

depends on what you consider "wrong" with the frame.

the reveal in the side does need to be toned down for a fenderless high-boy style build as mentioned. if you want a "stock" type frame that accepts stock type suspension components then the Replicas and Miniatures frame is the way to go.

Now I understand. Revell's frame is good for current chassis components. Rep. & Min. is good for stock and retro. Revell's need reveal brought down for fenderless. Rep. & Min. is already done.

So, if I'm going with a fenderless, quick and dirty, fun build just use the kit parts.

Thanks for straightening me out. Now I've got some frame rails to clean up.

[Patrick K.]

BTW thanks again for all of the useful tips! So quickly as well! I wanted to start playing while on vaction this week: between errands and duties.

You guys are the best!

[Art Anderson]

Alright. I'm about ready to open and build this new Ford coupe. Then I go and read for the umpteenth time, that the frame is "inaccurate". Probably never hearing this, I'd never have given it a second thought or notice. However, being fairly retentive, and building mainly factory "stock". I'd like to know for my own benefit, without purchasing a Rep and Min "corrected" frame. What the differences actually are and what it entails to clean them up. I understand about removing the mold lines and general cleaning up of the kit frame. I just want to know what Henry Ford would "frown" at if he were to see it. TIA

About 10 yrs ago, I started on a stock '32 Ford frame, for what will become, eventually, a completely stock '32 Ford roadster (Yes Virginia, there were stock ones!). Here are some things to ponder:

Revell's 1/25 scale frame is accurately dimensioned, and the side rails are correct in their drop and "fishbelly" curves, which is a plus. However, there are problems, if one is to be accurate. For starters, the fender/running board reveals, while correct in their layout, have a sharp "corner" along that dimpled in area at the bottom, while the 1:1 is actually "filleted" where it curves outward at the bottom edge, and that edge, which is where the trailing edge of the front fender, and the running board bolt directly to the frame ('32 Fords had no separate splash aprons, as seen on Model A's, the frame was the splash apron as well!), that "edge" being rolled, not sharp and angular. As for filleted, that means that the bottom of the reveal is "rolled" into the edge as well, making a cross section like an upside down question mark. The fillet is easily done with spot and glaze putty, and a bit of sandpaper work.

Here's a pic of a stock '32 Ford chassis I did from the Revell unit:

I started by removing some of the kit floorboard from the frame rails, where the crossmembers had to be added. The center crossmember was cut from an AMT '32 Ford Victoria frame, as that one is pretty accurate, and having the rails securely spaced apart by the remnant of the floor, it was easy to make that crossmember fit where it needed to fit. I added the corner reinforcements that Ford used to stiffen things as much as they could (the Deuce frame was notoriously flexible at the start, the corner braces on that crossmember served to stiffen things quite a bit, and are on just about every stock Deuce that exists today).

The rear crossmember on a stock Deuce is a bit trickier--the one in my pic was made from 13 pcs of Evergreen, and is both angled, and tapered per a line drawing I found in a book on the Deuce. The biggest issue, besides scratchbuilding this crossmember is, in addition to its shapes, it is also positioned just behind the rear axle, with a simple curved arch leaf spring that has its leaves "swept forward, to attach to mounds on each outer end, level with the centerline of the axle.

My frame has yet to get a stock front crossmember--for that I will use one from a Revell '29 A pickup, that is more than close enough.

Art