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Art Anderson

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    Arthur Anderson

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    Lafayette Indiana
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    Arthur E. Anderson

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  1. If you are talking about the '26-'27 welded steel spoke wheels, the spokes are 1/4" thick. Art
  2. My scriber? For me, nothing beats a modified razor saw blade (sans handle) for scribing straight lines. For curves, I draw out the curve on the body shell with a .5mm mechanical pencil, then use the "heel" (rear end of the razor saw blade) and carefully draw it toward me, using just the last tooth, around that curve then simply repeat the process. Been doing it that way for nearly 50 years. Art
  3. An interesting sidelight to the story of Pyro: Years ago, at one of the annual Hobby Industry Association of America trade shows I attended in Chicago, I met the man who owned the company. I had to ask just how he came to name the model company. He replied that he was the president and principal stockholder of the Pyrometer Corporation (pyrometers are instruments used for measuring the temperature of surfaces, such as the grille at say, McDonald's). He started Pyro the model company, just to have something to get away from the stress and everyday grind at Pyrometer, and simply drew on t
  4. A very small category in automotive modeling. Not many ever turn up at model contests, for example, if at all, in my experience. Art
  5. Consider this: In 1924, a Model T based car, using the then very new Frontenac 16-valve DOHC cylinder head, finished in the top ten at Indianapolis, against a field dominated by the likes of supercharged Duesenbergs and supercharged Millers, and that after a lengthy pit stop during the race, when in order to replace a broken front spring, a couple mechanics had to run to the infield, jack a spectator's parked Model T, remove its front spring, run it back to the pits, and change into the race car! (one story, which has some credibility, is that the spectator/owner of the stock T never knew w
  6. Yes, labor costs in China have gone up, and rather dramatically over the past 10 years or so. At any rate, a one piece body shell is actually done from a 6-piece tool, that is part of the whole plastic "tree". The body shell's upper surfaces are cut into the steel tooling as a fixed location, with each body side, the front and rear surfaces being "slides" that when the tool is closed for the injection of molten plastic, then have to slide away from that molded part, before the body can be removed from the "male", or the side of the entire tool that will do the upper and outer parts of the b
  7. Look around at supermarkets and/or "Big Box" stores for flexible drinking straws, Art
  8. The tires are vinyl (PVC, or Polyvinyl Chloride) and the display case is clear polystyrene. If the proper precautions are not taken at the factory, the PVC Monomer can leach out of those tires, and WILL damage polystyrene over time. It's an old-time problem for modelers, for the most part, but still can happen on occasion. Art
  9. It all depends on the size (dimensions of the original tooling), as if there was never a plan for further model years or versions, it would require another tool base, on which to create the desired GMC, and later versions--thus requiring two molding machines, and additional labor staff--thus meaning a higher cost for such modified reissues at the factory loading dock. Art
  10. I believe those Cadillacs were sold at places like Kresge's and Woolworth's, from bins in their toy departments, back in the 1950's, for all of perhaps 25-cents each. Art
  11. AMT's Model A Roadster is a '29, always has been. AMT also molded, from MPC tooling, a 1928 Tudor Sedan, which tooling MPC produced a '28 Station Wagon and Roadster Pickup. Art
  12. A little-known fact about decals: The "glue" that holds decals to their sheet of blotter paper, and also to the surface of your model is nothing more than "gelatin"--basically the very same material that is the basis for you know,"JELL--O". I have found, first quite by accident, that a good QUALITY masking tape, laid down over a decal, and rubbed down completely, will almost invariably damage the decal, initially at the edges, sometimes very quickly in the middle of the decal itself. I've used this technique to remove decals off and on for years, especially during my years of building mode
  13. Back in the 1960's, yes they did sell for the same MSRP as any single-version kit. I was there, and working my way through college in our LHS. Art
  14. Stainless steel artists' paint palette spatulas also work quite well. These are found in the art supplies area of any Michael's or Hobby Lobby, even artists' supply stores. These are precisely and cleanly cut shapes, and are "sanded/ground" to a tapered thickness, which also makes they flexible, but still "springy", and when dipped into lacquer thinner are great for smoothing down lacquer spot n glaze putty much more than any wooden or plastic tool can do. Been using them for a couple of decades now. Art
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