What type of paint to use?

[Patrick2005]

I have been struggling to find a brand of spray paint that works best for painting the bodies of my cars. I seem to have a probelm with the paint lifting, even if I use primer. Is there anyone who has dealt with this problem and can offer any advice?

[BigGary]

This is a problem that many others have dealt with. It usually has to do with incompatible paints being used on top of each other. The usual fix is to strip and wash the parts and re-paint with primer and paint from the same manufacturer to insure compatibility. Do a search on this topic and I'm sure you'll find good help.

Gary

[Chillyb1]

And after you follow Gary's advice, go to the hobby shop and get some Tamiya spray paints. You'll be glad you did.

[E St. Kruiser50]

I have been struggling to find a brand of spray paint that works best for painting the bodies of my cars. I seem to have a probelm with the paint lifting, even if I use primer. Is there anyone who has dealt with this problem and can offer any advice?

Hey Patrick

Remember that paint alone isn't always the problem.

Weather conditions, temp., humidity, painting skills, compatability of your different paints and primers, the techniques you use, like how long to wait between each coat, etc., all play a major roll in good painting.

SPRAY PAINTING ISN'T "PLUG N PLAY", it takes serious time to learn, and you will make mistakes - part of learning.

Get yourself a package of white plastic picnic spoons, and start spraying samples.

The spoons are made of styrene like your model kits, and will accurately give you the same results as on a kit body.

Once you figure out what works, then your ready to spra some "KEEPERS" .

[Dr. Cranky]

Sound advice indeed, but you can also turn for more information to the books published by PAT COVERT

http://www.amazon.com/Building-Detailing-S.../ref=pd_sim_b_1

TERRY JESSEE

http://www.amazon.com/Build-Detail-Model-C...2046&sr=1-1

ROBERT DOWNIE (Our Own Zoom Zoom!)

http://www.amazon.com/How-Use-Airbrush-Rob.../ref=pd_sim_b_6

[Dr. Cranky]

Actually, I forgot to mention that Mr. Downie's book is in a second edition . . .

http://www.amazon.com/Airbrush-Second-Fine.../ref=pd_sim_b_9

Also a note here on why I am mentioning the airbrush as a possibility. Like lots of modelers I started with the rattle can and quickly got tired of having such few selections, then I turned to the airbrush because I wanted to have more access to a greater palette of colors and paint systems . . . and today I use exclusively House of Kolor and sometimes Auto Air Colors when I am doing shiny paintjobs . . . when doing flat jobs I turn to Tamiya, Floquil and Jo Sonya acrylics . . .

[Lownslow]

i use all kinds to the point where i know whats compatible with who

[Ddms]

Painting is not rocket science if you use the Right Stuff.

As Curtis suggested, you won't find many complaints among modelers about Tamiya spray paints. The combination of Tamiya Primer, Tamiya TS-series color coats and Tamiya clear coats is nearly always troublefree. You'll read about the occasional problem with clearcoating over decals, but that's a rarity, and it's almost always caused by a combination of wet application and crappy decals.

Anybody who's struggling with hardware store acrylics or enamels or other paints not designed for models ought to give Tamiya spray paints a try. Their primer sticks to just about anything and accepts just about any color coat - sanding optional. Their color coat goes on smooth, covers well, dries quickly, requires minimum polishing, doesn't attract dust and looks fantastic, even when it's not clear coated. And there are no long waits between coats. (You should wait a couple of days before polishing. That's about it.)

There are other good paints out there (my favorite U-POL Powercan clearcoat included), but you can't beat Tamiya sprays as the way for novice painters to get terrific results on the first try, and with zero hassle.

Ddms

[showrodfreak]

Majority of the time is handling the body or parts before painting. The grease from your hands can be the problem or not sanded correcly.

When shooting clear wait a hour or till tacky. Then shoot your clear. Don't wait a week or you would have too sand the color with 1000 grit. If it's metalic don't sand it or you will swirl marks on the metalic. Shoot a thin coat then clear after an hour.

Edited September 8, 2009 by showrodfreak