who makes thirties' Ford chasses?

[jfh]

I want to build up more factory stock models. Right now I am working on 36-37 versions.

So, who has frames?

--presumably, without molded-in exhaust, and complete for stock axle / suspension mounting....

TIA--

Jim H.

[Lyle Willits]

I want to build up more factory stock models. Right now I am working on 36-37 versions.

So, who has frames?

--presumably, without molded-in exhaust, and complete for stock axle / suspension mounting....

TIA--

Jim H.

I'd be surprised if you found any in resin.

'35 thru '40 Ford frames were the same. The Revell '40 Ford kits will provide a very detailed chassis

[jfh]

Thanks, Lyle. Now I know where to look / what to use.

I hadn't gotten far enough in my 1:1 research to figure out which years had the same specs, and my knowledge about kit characteristics is still limited.

Jim H.

[Art Anderson]

Thanks, Lyle. Now I know where to look / what to use.

I hadn't gotten far enough in my 1:1 research to figure out which years had the same specs, and my knowledge about kit characteristics is still limited.

Jim H.

[jfh]

Art--thank you! I have both those light truck kits on hand, but hadn't inspected their chassis yet. Meanwhile, I also just got in a Revell 1940 Standard kit--and had just 'discovered' the LOA factor. I must be learning something--this kit looks beautifully done.

I've now built one sample of the Revell '36 3W coupe Street Rod, but got it over to stock configuration with parts swapping. It's at the 95% completion point, but I do have a flub: My grill shell ended up glued on slightly crooked--and I used 5 min. epoxy glue Any tips on breaking it loose for a reglue? Once that is squared away, I can rub down / touchup polish, and do the final assembly.

Meanwhile, I've got another '36 coupe going--the AMT 'Dick Tracy' 5W. I am finally getting more adventurous--I'm using the Jimmy F. 36 TuDor Sedan body, so I am in the course of learning about resin. I've got that body fit fairly well, but I will need to do a two-stage glue down--rear fenders first, to fit them in properly. Does that make sense?

I sorted out final build specs today--this TuDor will be a mild fifties-sixties rod with a hopped-up FH, dropped axle, that sort of thing. I have ordered in Early Years 36 ford wheels--both wide and reversed / shallow and some axles and engine parts. I haven't been able to figure out a stock sedan interior, however--the (Revell) '37 kits I've seen so far have custom interiors. The Revell '32 2-in-1 interior is obviously too narrow, among other issues.

However, other than realizing I need to get the interior in before the fender glue-down, I am a bit bemused about a good workflow--i.e., doing a final paint job after window / interior assembly.

To avoid getting carried away--i.e., extravagent plans, then having builder's block re perfectionism rising up--I'm simply going to do the coupe interior, with some Early Years truck seats, and the coupe rear shelf chopped off. Then, I will put in tinted windows and leave the rear empty for now.

The AMT molded-in exhaust is now gone, and the cleanup is acceptable at my skill stage, I think. It might be a good excuse to try weathering at a later date. Other than some detail wiring right now, and dry brush / rattle can paint skills, there'll be no extensive work.

Any tips or observations from anyone will be most appreciated.

Jim H.

[Art Anderson]

Art--thank you! I have both those light truck kits on hand, but hadn't inspected their chassis yet. Meanwhile, I also just got in a Revell 1940 Standard kit--and had just 'discovered' the LOA factor. I must be learning something--this kit looks beautifully done.

I've now built one sample of the Revell '36 3W coupe Street Rod, but got it over to stock configuration with parts swapping. It's at the 95% completion point, but I do have a flub: My grill shell ended up glued on slightly crooked--and I used 5 min. epoxy glue Any tips on breaking it loose for a reglue? Once that is squared away, I can rub down / touchup polish, and do the final assembly.

Meanwhile, I've got another '36 coupe going--the AMT 'Dick Tracy' 5W. I am finally getting more adventurous--I'm using the Jimmy F. 36 TuDor Sedan body, so I am in the course of learning about resin. I've got that body fit fairly well, but I will need to do a two-stage glue down--rear fenders first, to fit them in properly. Does that make sense?

I sorted out final build specs today--this TuDor will be a mild fifties-sixties rod with a hopped-up FH, dropped axle, that sort of thing. I have ordered in Early Years 36 ford wheels--both wide and reversed / shallow and some axles and engine parts. I haven't been able to figure out a stock sedan interior, however--the (Revell) '37 kits I've seen so far have custom interiors. The Revell '32 2-in-1 interior is obviously too narrow, among other issues.

However, other than realizing I need to get the interior in before the fender glue-down, I am a bit bemused about a good workflow--i.e., doing a final paint job after window / interior assembly.

To avoid getting carried away--i.e., extravagent plans, then having builder's block re perfectionism rising up--I'm simply going to do the coupe interior, with some Early Years truck seats, and the coupe rear shelf chopped off. Then, I will put in tinted windows and leave the rear empty for now.

The AMT molded-in exhaust is now gone, and the cleanup is acceptable at my skill stage, I think. It might be a good excuse to try weathering at a later date. Other than some detail wiring right now, and dry brush / rattle can paint skills, there'll be no extensive work.

Any tips or observations from anyone will be most appreciated.

Jim H.

[jfh]

OK, I'll "try harder" to break it loose. This area--i.e., the shell/radiator/'body surround' was the only spot I had to deal with some warping--and I apparently did not hold everything tight enough and in alignment at the 4-6 minute period.

Meanwhile, I did get out the Revell 37 PU chassis--and it does give me the replacement for the Revell 37 Street Rod chassis. I'll also compare the two sets of chassis parts closely--but for sure, the engine mounts will now work with the FH V8, and I can easily use stock-type suspension instead of more modern components.

Jim H.