29 Ford pickup

[Alyn]

Some of you may remember this flathead V8 from my 29 Ford roadster build. That build is set aside while this 29 Ford pickup takes shape. I don't know why I switched gears and started building the truck instead of the roadster. I was digging through the box looking for parts, mocked up the body parts for fun and the next thing you know, I'm building a truck. Anyway, the flathead is changing homes and going in the truck. The roadster will have to get another one.

 

Edited September 12, 2015 by Alyn

[Alyn]

Here's the truck; Revell's 29 Ford pickup 3-in-1 kit. The bed has been shortened about a scale foot. That's about the only custom mod in the plans. Other than the switch from the four banger to the flathead V8 and a few detail changes, it'll be pretty much per the instructions. I haven't built anything in yellow yet, so that's the plan for this one.

[MikeMc]

What a great choice....that flattie looks great and will fit perfectly...I put it in the RPU version.

[Fletch]

Should be pretty cool, how can you go wrong with a '29 Pickup powered by a equally cool flatty?

[Alyn]

Thanks, guys, I'm really glad I built the flatty. They just ooze retro.

Dave, the doors & tailgate will open. It's tough enough opening up doors on kits that don't have them. The work's already done on this one, so I'll be taking advantage.

Nice looking roadster, Mike. I really like that light green metallic. especially with those wheels and tires. I hate to waste parts, so I'll probably find a way to build the roadster body on mine too.

This kit comes with a visor over the windshield, but I wanted to have to look of the drilled visor and with plastic the thickness is too apparent. I built one out of brass to take advantage of the thinner material. Shape wise, it's about the same as the kit version. The doors had a bunch of pin marks that had to be cleaned up. It would have been nice to just build inner door panels, but with the stock seat, the thicker doors wouldn't close. I just cleaned them up and painted 'em.

The underside of the roof is molded to look like wood, so several shades of brown and tan Tamiya acryllics were used to duplicate a wood look. The cross beams are covered in standard masking tape and trimmed like BMF to look like pine bows. The inside of the body and the visor were painted ahead of time to make the final painting a little easier. They won't be masked off at paint time, but since they'll already have a few coats of yellow, I can focus on getting the main parts of the body looking good.

Edited October 10, 2009 by Alyn

[Alyn]

Thanks, Dave. Yeah, those hinges are just plain too small to hang on to. It's difficult to hold something that small without gluing it to your finger. As far as alignment, once I got the hinges into the slot on the body, all but one fell into position pretty well. The fourth one, I thought the glue was going to set before I could get it aligned. Now that they're in place, the only problem is the drivers door doesn't quite close flush with the body and the passenger side wants to keep swinging open.

All in all, I still like them and I'm sure the next one I do will be hinged as well.

Edited October 10, 2009 by Alyn

[James W]

I like your bed, It looks much better shortened up.

The visor is awsome too, espcially the radius at the ends.

Somewhere I've got a 29 closed cab p/u half built...

[Fletch]

Alyn, the underside of the roof is fantastic, great workmanship on staining the plastic wood. You could Paten that visor and get rich and never have to work another day in your life. That is seriously cool.

[Alyn]

Here's the visor in place with the body ready for final paint. I almost think there's too many holes in the visor, but all in all, it turned out as expected. The visor was pre-painted on the underside and top so I don't have to concentrate on those areas during the final painting. Then the top surface was sanded smooth. This will help minimize the tendency of paint to build up around the edges of the holes.

The bench seat is shot with Krylon burgundy. The color is reminiscent of an inexpensive Naugahyde that you might see on a budget build in someones garage.

[Alyn]

These wheels come in the 29 kit, but the chrome has been stripped off with Super Clean. The spokes are painted Model Masters magnesium and the outer rims aluminum. I don't think the two colors have enough contrast, but I'm not going through the trouble of masking off the spokes a second time.

I also mocked it up with some chrome steel rims and baby moons. The added chrome would look good with the yellow, but the tires that fit the chrome rims didn't have the look I want, so the Torque Thrust mags win the day.

[Alyn]

Can't seem to stay away from the brass.

This truck doesn't come with a separate frame for the windshield. There's a piece of clear stock that is used to cut out a windshield. This is then glued to the backside (inside) of the windshield opening. I used a length of 1/16" square brass tube for the new frame. The opening in the body has a gentle curve across the top of the cowl, so the the brass tube was gently rolled across a spray can to create a slight bow. Then the proper length was marked and some 45 degree notches were cut in the tubing for the corner bends. A separate piece of brass strip was soldered across the top to provide the upper section.

Edited October 11, 2009 by Alyn

[Eshaver]

I'm imprtessed with BOTH Flathead builds !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Very nice , now lets see more . Ed Shaver

[Alyn]

Thanks, Ed. Here's more progress. Fresh yellow always looks cool.

Trial fit of the brass window frame. The fit is pretty good, but not that critical as I plan on tilting the window out at the bottom. This was the 1929 version of air conditioning.

[Alyn]

This is a quickie build for me; right around 6 or 7 weeks including a couple of weeks for the flathead. I cut some basswood for the pickup bed and covered it with about 10 coats of clear, sanding with 600 between coats. Then the clear was sanded with finer grits and polished.

The V8 fit like a glove although the floor had to be cut out for tranny clearance with a hump to cover it up. It's kind of hard to tell, but the door panels are the same burgundy as the seats with BMF and knobs on the door handles. I used a combination of brass tube and styrene rod to scratch build the headers. Like the visor, the brass was used to achieve the thin edge. Brass rod was also used for the radiator support struts. A few more touches like clear fuel lines going to a fuel block on the firewall, aluminum tube for radiator plumbing with heat shrink used for coupling hoses and then some valve stems using 30g wire.

The nice thing about this one, is that it matches my eyes

When I get some nice weather, I hope to shoot some outdoor shots for an "under glass" entry.

Thanks for checking this one out.

Edited October 13, 2009 by Alyn

[Raul_Perez]

Another really nice build, Alyn!!

All of the brass parts really help sell the realistic look.

I can't wait to see your outdoor pics for your "Under Glass" post!!

Thanks for sharing,

[Alyn]

Thanks, Raul. Glad you like the brass work. The way this winter is starting off, I may not be doing any outside camera work for the next 6 months.

[Raul_Perez]

Thanks, Raul. Glad you like the brass work. The way this winter is starting off, I may not be doing any outside camera work for the next 6 months.

Well, you can always do like I do...setup a nice little photo stand inside...

I don't know about you, but most of my indoor pics look better than the ones I've taken outside...

[Alyn]

This car is the only example where I have both an indoor and outdoor picture. I do have an area set up for taking indoor pictures and they turn out ok, but look at the difference in color. The color balance correction feature of PaintShop Pro was used on the indoor one, but it still looks a lot creamier. The actual color is pretty close to GM Arctic White which is a very white, white.

The outdoor picture captures the true color much better. More importantly, I think it looks more realistic as well.