Ben Posted November 28, 2009 Posted November 28, 2009 Hey guys, sorry for so many questions on Alclad but i'm about to use it for the first time and want to get it right. I know your supposed to spray the aluminum over gloss black enamel but i'm not wanting a shiny aluminum finish. I am wanting a dull aluminum appearance. Has anyone here sprayed Alclad aluminum over grey primer, flat white or flat black? If so what kind of results were obtained? Thank you in advance for any help.
Harry P. Posted November 28, 2009 Posted November 28, 2009 Alclad is expensive! If you just want a dull aluminum color, use Testors Metalizer aluminum, or any aluminum spray paint... from Walmart, even. Why waste the expensive Alclad if you don't need a "chrome" finish???
Ben Posted November 28, 2009 Author Posted November 28, 2009 Alclad is expensive! If you just want a dull aluminum color, use Testors Metalizer aluminum, or any aluminum spray paint... from Walmart, even. Why waste the expensive Alclad if you don't need a "chrome" finish??? Hey Harry, I already have the Alclad, bought it years ago and need to use it up. I have also heard that the Alclad is more durable as far as not rubbing off when touched.
Harry P. Posted November 28, 2009 Posted November 28, 2009 I've heard just the opposite... that Alclad is pretty flimsy and easily rubs off. I've never used it, but that's what I've heard and read. I still say if you want a dull aluminum finish you're better off using "aluminum" paint. 99 cents a can from Walmart. Or Metalizers. I'd save the Alclad for where you want a "chrome-like" finish. But that's just me... hey, it's your money!
Ben Posted November 28, 2009 Author Posted November 28, 2009 I've heard just the opposite... that Alclad is pretty flimsy and easily rubs off. I've never used it, but that's what I've heard and read. I still say if you want a dull aluminum finish you're better off using "aluminum" paint. 99 cents a can from Walmart. Or Metalizers. I'd save the Alclad for where you want a "chrome-like" finish. But that's just me... hey, it's your money! I have plenty of the chrome, four jars. I know it needs to be sprayed over gloss black enamel perferably with clear shot over the black before spraying the Alclad chrome. The wheels i'm painting right now though are the "never been polished" looking aluminum wheels, not all oxidised and tarnished, just not shiny.
Ben Posted November 28, 2009 Author Posted November 28, 2009 Hey Ken, thanks for the info. I am planning on using Alclad "Aluminum", part number ALC 101. I know to use the Alclad "chrome" when i'm trying to replicate bright shiny chrome. Thats not what i'm trying to do at this time. I am painting some wheels that, in real life are dull, unpolished aluminum. I am concerned that if I spray the Alclad "Aluminum" paint over gloss black, the final finish will appear too shiny. I am curious as to how the Aclad "Aluminum" looks when sprayed over a flat base such as flat gray, flat white or flat black?
my80malibu Posted November 28, 2009 Posted November 28, 2009 Ben, Your best bet is to use the gloss enamel black just like it says to, Set your pressure to 15psi and do multiple coats of the Alclad. When I use it the first pass is always the one with the most chrome like shine, and always if I overdue it by making to many passes it dulls out to an aluminum appearance. Which is what you may be wanting to achieve. As far as being too expensive it does'nt take a whole lot of paint(Alclad) to do this because you dont need to put much on.
Ben Posted November 28, 2009 Author Posted November 28, 2009 Thanks Gabriel, yea, cost is not any issue as I have had this paint for a long time now and need to use it anyway. I'm just trying to achieve the best looking aluminum appearance.
Ben Posted November 28, 2009 Author Posted November 28, 2009 From Alclad's Web site ... "Apply one of these primers before using Regular ALCLAD: Tamiya Plastic Primers-white or grey Auto Primer-white or grey Future/Klear -floor sealer/polish Plastic primers and auto primers should be lightly polished with 1000/1200 wet & dry paper to give a less absorbent glossy surface . ALCLAD High Shine -Chrome and Polished Aluminium both require a dark glossy base. Polished Aluminium should be used over Tamiya TS-14 gloss black,or gloss black auto paint. Chrome and only chrome should be used over gloss black model enamel paint." The Aluminum is regular Alclad and thus does not require the dark, glossy base. It also is not affected by its base color, like the high-shine Alclad colors are. Ahhh, I see! I'll try it over gray primer then and see how it looks. Thanks Ken!
Karmodeler2 Posted November 29, 2009 Posted November 29, 2009 Ahhh, I see! I'll try it over gray primer then and see how it looks. Thanks Ken! Hey Ben, one thing to keep in mind is that the only allclad paints that need the gloss base coat are Stainless, Polished Aluminum, Chrome (and there may be one more). ALL of their others can go straight onto plastic with no primer (although they do not recommend this, it can be done......you will learn a lot this way by just trying things and not being afraid to fail once or twice along the way,....that's how some of these tips come to be!!!!!). Also, get you a bag of plastic spoons at the Dollar store for about a.......yes, a dollar,.......and try your practice shots on the back of the spoon. On the inside of the spoon write what you sprayed on the back of the spoon. It's a cheap way to practice....and if you drill holes in the handles, you can hang them up with the back of the spoon showing for your own "paint chip" rack, and when you need a color you like, grab the spoon, look on the inside to see how you mixed it, and there you go. It's also helpful in repairing a model that you mixed a custom color for...and forgot how you mixed it!!!!! BLACK BASES ONLY One thing to keep in mind with the "black bases" needed for the particular allclads: these paints are translucent, not opaque. The light needs to pass through them, hit the base, and come back up through to give you the "Chrome" look(or one of the others). You can use dark colors, then put a coat of Future on the part, then allclad it. As long as the final coat had the deep shine, you will have the reflective property you are looking for. The best result I have found (and you will find many on this board, this is just mine) is to use a double action Paasche airbrush with NO MORE THAN 4 to 5 PSI. Put a cheap surgical glove on your left hand (if you are right handed) and hold the part in your left hand. Take your airbrush and push down all the way for the air, and slowly pull back on the trigger while spraying your index finger around your first knuckle. You will start to see the allclad come out in a very fine mist or spinkle(you need the glove to see this, that's why the glove) and while you are holding your trigger finger still, move your gun from your knuckle to your part you are holding with your fingers on your left hand. Rotate the part and let the allclad "sprinkle" onto the part. Because you are opening the hole on the gun to such a small opening, it tends to clog real easy and fast. No problem. Put the gun back over on your knuckle, pull back a little more aggressively, clear the clog, and then start the misting process again, then move it over to the part, rotate the part, and repeat. It takes about 5-8 times of doing this....but man!!! What great chrome!!!! While this may take some time, it WILL keep your chrome looking like chrome, and not some fancy silver paint. This technique has worked for me countless times. I wish you luck! (you can do this on spoons too....shoot the black, future if you want it, then the allclad....you can play with pressures, flows and the like and not have to mess up the real thing while you are learning). Experience is the best teacher.....after all it should be....it's the most expensive! David
Karmodeler2 Posted November 29, 2009 Posted November 29, 2009 Hey guys, sorry for so many questions on Alclad but i'm about to use it for the first time and want to get it right. I know your supposed to spray the aluminum over gloss black enamel but i'm not wanting a shiny aluminum finish. I am wanting a dull aluminum appearance. Has anyone here sprayed Alclad aluminum over grey primer, flat white or flat black? If so what kind of results were obtained? Thank you in advance for any help. Hey Ben, Here is a link to some pics Gregg took in ATL and it shows the allclad I was talking about. The grille,bumpers, rims, tops of air cleaners, headlights, horns, stacks, and lights on top of cab where allclad. I used MM classic black, but with enamels, you have to let them cure, not only dry, because they settle over time. When it settles, it will change the finish if you do not allow enough cure time. Some guys use dehydrators. The finish is not nice on the rear bumper and some of the front as I did not allow enough cure time (I was impatient) and wanted to finish it. But you can see that some of the parts do look like chrome. The other "chrome" is BMF, like the straps on the tanks, cleaners, and frame. Good luck. David http://www.modelcarsmag.com/SouthernNNL09/...s/page_465.html?
Scott - Elm City Hobbies Posted November 29, 2009 Posted November 29, 2009 (edited) Actually it is only the Chrome and the Polished Aluminum that requires a gloss black base coat to achieve the desired Chrome or Polished Aluminum finish. None of the other colors require it, that being said, a black base may enhance the other colors, but not sure as I have never tried it. Edited November 29, 2009 by Scott - Elm City Hobbies
Ben Posted November 30, 2009 Author Posted November 30, 2009 Hey Ben, Here is a link to some pics Gregg took in ATL and it shows the allclad I was talking about. The grille,bumpers, rims, tops of air cleaners, headlights, horns, stacks, and lights on top of cab where allclad. I used MM classic black, but with enamels, you have to let them cure, not only dry, because they settle over time. When it settles, it will change the finish if you do not allow enough cure time. Some guys use dehydrators. The finish is not nice on the rear bumper and some of the front as I did not allow enough cure time (I was impatient) and wanted to finish it. But you can see that some of the parts do look like chrome. The other "chrome" is BMF, like the straps on the tanks, cleaners, and frame. Good luck. David http://www.modelcarsmag.com/SouthernNNL09/...s/page_465.html? Thanks guys, I really appreciate the tips and will be sure to try them. David, I LOVE that little semi!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Please tell me you have more pictures of it! It's ironic as I am wanting to paint the wheels on a rig. That's what this post is for. I love Tom Daniels stuff and love trucks so you know I really got a kick out of your ,little rig!!!!! It would look right at home next to the Hemi Semi from Tom Daniel.
Karmodeler2 Posted December 1, 2009 Posted December 1, 2009 Thanks guys, I really appreciate the tips and will be sure to try them. David, I LOVE that little semi!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Please tell me you have more pictures of it! It's ironic as I am wanting to paint the wheels on a rig. That's what this post is for. I don't have any pics of it, but Gregg took about 15 or so, so I don't know if more pics would really show you anything you haven't already seen in Gregg's pics. This is a Jimmy Flintstone kit. While it is expensive ($80), it was a lot of fun to build. Mine was solid resin (and I mean SOLID resin...very heavy....Jimmy said that it has $25 worth of resin in it), the new ones are lighter and should be available from him. He is having them spun cast so they don't waste so much resin. I was happy with the build and Jimmy had Gregg take all those pics because Jimmy said he was going to use them in his catalog to showcase his truck kits for sale. He said a cabover version is on it's way with a longer wheelbase!! Can't wait!! Both kits are rather large too.....somewhere between 1/20 and 1/18...just not sure where. David
Karmodeler2 Posted December 1, 2009 Posted December 1, 2009 (edited) Please tell me you have more pictures of it! Edited December 1, 2009 by Karmodeler2
Karmodeler2 Posted December 1, 2009 Posted December 1, 2009 (edited) Please tell me you have more pictures of it! If you will click on the link that I sent in the other email, then at the top of the pic of the truck, advance to the next slide, there are 16 photos for your enjoyment. David Edited December 1, 2009 by Karmodeler2
oldman23 Posted December 1, 2009 Posted December 1, 2009 When it comes to spraying aluminum wheels and intake manifolds that I want to look like cast aluminum and unfinished, I use SnJ Spray Metals aluminum (now Hawkeye's spray metals). I've been using them for quite awhile and Hawkeye bought them out Now they have a complete line of spray metals and polishing powders to brighten them up. They cost less than Alclad and they have actual metal in them so you MUST wear a dust mask or respirator when using the polishing powders. Here is a link to Hawkeye's and you can watch the instructional video, which is pretty good. I like the dull just cast look of an aluminum intake manifold, it just looks right. Hawkeye's Hobbies
Ben Posted December 1, 2009 Author Posted December 1, 2009 I don't have any pics of it, but Gregg took about 15 or so, so I don't know if more pics would really show you anything you haven't already seen in Gregg's pics. This is a Jimmy Flintstone kit. While it is expensive ($80), it was a lot of fun to build. Mine was solid resin (and I mean SOLID resin...very heavy....Jimmy said that it has $25 worth of resin in it), the new ones are lighter and should be available from him. He is having them spun cast so they don't waste so much resin. I was happy with the build and Jimmy had Gregg take all those pics because Jimmy said he was going to use them in his catalog to showcase his truck kits for sale. He said a cabover version is on it's way with a longer wheelbase!! Can't wait!! Both kits are rather large too.....somewhere between 1/20 and 1/18...just not sure where. David Hey David, I just went to Jimmy's site but couldn't find the kit? Does the kit have a name or part number?
E St. Kruiser50 Posted December 1, 2009 Posted December 1, 2009 HEY BEN I added a thread here on tips for Alclading - HOPE IT HELPS .
Karmodeler2 Posted December 2, 2009 Posted December 2, 2009 Hey David, I just went to Jimmy's site but couldn't find the kit? Does the kit have a name or part number? He might not have it up yet, since he just ordered 1000 of them from China (I think that's what he said in ATL to me, it was a large amount). I was lucky enough to get one of the ones he cast here in the states. If he does not have them, he soon will. You could email him or call him and he should have an answer for you. Good luck. David
Ben Posted December 3, 2009 Author Posted December 3, 2009 He might not have it up yet, since he just ordered 1000 of them from China (I think that's what he said in ATL to me, it was a large amount). I was lucky enough to get one of the ones he cast here in the states. If he does not have them, he soon will. You could email him or call him and he should have an answer for you. Good luck. David Ahhhhh i see! I'll give him a shout and see what he says. Thanks!
chuckyr Posted December 13, 2009 Posted December 13, 2009 I don't know Alclad has given me the best simulated finsih of all model paints. http://www.alclad2.com/ http://www.alclad2.com/lacquer_colors.html
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