MRMopar426 Posted December 11, 2006 Share Posted December 11, 2006 does super glue work on on models???because i dont have any model glue...im trying to glue the exaust manifold to the block... :!: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob paeth Posted December 11, 2006 Share Posted December 11, 2006 You will find that super glue, also known as CA, is excelent for model use. The only application of CA to avoid is the installation of windows. The fumes that CA has will "fog" up the clear plastic. CA comes in two forms, liquid and gel and both have their purposes. The gel is what I would use to stick your headers to the engine block. The gel has more adhesive qualities quicker than the liquid type. If I am gluing the seats to the interior I will usually use the liquid. Just place the seat into position and squeeze the container of CA and it will flow with capillary action, thus anchoring the seat very permanently. A WORD OF CAUTION: CA can be dangerous so be extremely careful. It will glue fingers together. It will glue pants legs to your legs if it drips into your lap. Severe cases have seen emergency surgery when CA got onto the eyelids. CA is a good modeling "tool" but treat it with respect. Bob :shock: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MRMopar426 Posted December 11, 2006 Author Share Posted December 11, 2006 Thanks guys i was just making sure that way i didnt ruin anything!! :shock: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Billy Kingsley Posted December 11, 2006 Share Posted December 11, 2006 Superglue is way runnier then model glue, boy did I find that out the hard way! I've glued my fingers togther more then once. I've glued them to things as well! Take this car for instance. I glued the rivet hole in the chassis, the super glue ran up the inside of the car, and out the window area, thus gluing my finger to the car and badly fogging the window. This is 1/64 By the way! With Superglue, less is more. Only apply it to one side and don't apply much! It takes longer to "catch" then standard Testors Tube glue, but when it bonds it's way stronger. If you lay on too much it won't stick for a while and it'll look bad. Eventually you can even learn to fill gaps and holes with it, but that takes a bit of practice and skill. Hope that helps! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hot_Rod_Bob Posted December 11, 2006 Share Posted December 11, 2006 In my efforts to have a totally fumeless bench, I use only the Testors glue in the blue package rather then the orange. I used to have 2 CA's, but have gotten rid of them. I also use a two part epoxy, but instead of leaving it in the syringe, I have pumped it all out into two small plastic containers with very tight fitting lids. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Billy Kingsley Posted December 11, 2006 Share Posted December 11, 2006 That blue stuff is nasty, Bob! I used it when I first got into modeling, and the glue just...dissapears in about 2 years. You'll find that you'll be holding them toghter with zip-locks shortly. (The fumes from that are far worse then the "toxic" glue too, you can literally smell it all the way down the street!) Try some Ambroid Pro-Weld. It's easier to use then tube glue, has almost no smell at all (You have to be holding it real close to your face to smell it) and forms better bonds, without strings and stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
62rebel Posted December 11, 2006 Share Posted December 11, 2006 ca glue almost requires a tutorial. it is almost a must-have on my bench, but i hate using it. i've used many different brands and types; all have specific advantages and two big disadvantages. one; they cannot be counted on to grip immediately. as often as not, it has taken 15 minutes or more for ca glue to kick for me. (unless it touches my skin!) and two; regardless of the amount used, there has been some reaction that has caused a formation of salt-like crust on some parts. what i do use it for is to lock putty in place. after i've gotten a puttied surface to near finish, i spread a thin layer of ca across it and let it sink in. after it has cured, i finish sand that area and prime it. as for fogged windows and chrome, i've got my share of ruined models from my learning curve. they can be restored, i'm sure, but they were disappointing to see when i was expecting something else... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hot_Rod_Bob Posted December 11, 2006 Share Posted December 11, 2006 Hi Bill. I hope we are talking about the same glue here. I use the testors glue in the blue tube, non-toxic and has a citrus smell to it. I have been using the same tube for the last 2 years, and have 3 built kits on the shelf that are still holding together well after sitting there for over 7 years, But they are also in air tight show cases too, That may have something to do with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIGTRUCK Posted December 11, 2006 Share Posted December 11, 2006 The 'CA' I use comes in thin, medium, or thick and has various curing times 5 to 15 seconds on the medium , which is what I use . Refrain from using on clear parts , it tends to frost up. Plastruct and Pro-weld are the utility glues...and Hobby Lobby 5 minute epoxy 2 part only becauase I like the containers, they are easy to use without mess and elmers or testors window maker for clear parts and a bottle clear finish for photo-etch parts.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
62rebel Posted December 11, 2006 Share Posted December 11, 2006 MEMORY LANE... lifelike animal kits and renwal ww1 airplane kits came with liquid cement/paint thinner in them, IIRC; the last one i recall buying was a german shepherd and it had the paint kit with it with instructions on using the liquid cement to liquify the solid paint blocks like old grade school watercolors. the renwal system used liquid cement to melt the decals onto the surface of the wings and fuselage! boy am i glad we moved on from THAT sort of stuff; could you imagine brushing your choice of solvent over a 20 dollar set of decals on a 30 dollar kit you've spent 3 months finessing? oooooh i feel faint just thinking about it, and it's got nothing to do with fumes! and i remember two types of non-toxic cement from the 70's; the testors in the blue tube, of which i might still have one, and something called Ross safety cement. it did have the strong lemon scent we remember,and i recall not liking it because it seemed (in my memory) to take a lot longer to set than the testors' red tube. i also remember not having a choice since at that age Mom bought the kits and supplies, and she was super-safety-conscious about us kids. she'd have certainly went for the acrylic paint instead of my beloved enamels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest zebm1 Posted December 11, 2006 Share Posted December 11, 2006 I understand that these days you've gotta have a Driver's License and be at least 18 to buy "real glue." Someone said it was to prevent tha old 'gluehead' syndrome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick Forrester Posted December 11, 2006 Share Posted December 11, 2006 Hey Billy, Rick here. The picture that went throw my head of you with the car glued to your fringers just killed me. Something out of the Three Stooges. Oh Mo, Larry wheres the degluer. Papafo :shock: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jairus Posted December 12, 2006 Share Posted December 12, 2006 I use maybe 4 or 5 different types of glue on any of my models... oh, yes, solder as well!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatRedmond Posted December 12, 2006 Share Posted December 12, 2006 CA/SuperGlue, Tamiya Liquid Cement, Tenax, and Humbrol Clear Fix all on the bench here and usually 3 of the four get used. Tenax is used least. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Billy Kingsley Posted December 12, 2006 Share Posted December 12, 2006 Bob, I may have been exxagerating just a little bit, but the glue bonds AREN'T very strong. I don't think it melts the plastic, like red tube glue does. Maybe they reformulated it? I havn't touched the stuff since 2000. Rick, that's pretty much how it DID happen! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hot_Rod_Bob Posted December 12, 2006 Share Posted December 12, 2006 It's possible tha Testors has come up with a new formula for the "Blue" tube stuff. I just glued a few pieces together, and it does "melt" the styrene Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbwelda Posted December 14, 2006 Share Posted December 14, 2006 you guys must be using a different super glue than me. personally i use super glue (zap brand i believe it is and then generally the thicker stuff, zap a gap) most of the time except when something really needs to hold weight, then i use 5 minute epoxy. i find it (super glue) adheres quickly and consistently unless its old and then it seems to take awhile to catalyze (but i throw it out by then and replace with fresh stuff). gluing your hands etc together is not a big deal; nail polish remover with unglue it right away. it sticks to your skin because thats what it was formulated to do originally: be an in-field suture for battlegrounds and it reacts to moisture by well reacting to it and that means the moisture in your skin. ive never had a case where ive really glued myself to myself or something else that a little nail polish remover wouldnt solve (but ive yet to glue my eye lids together!) and it will NOT frost clear plastic if you coat the plastic with future floor wax or equivalent first. but theres no need to really at least in my case; i use elmers white glue thinned about 50/50 with tap water to fix plastic "glass" in place and it works great all the time though obviously its not a strong bond. or i just use future floor wax as the adhesive for glass and that works fine too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbwelda Posted December 14, 2006 Share Posted December 14, 2006 >It takes longer to "catch" then standard Testors Tube glue, but when it >bonds it's way stronger. assuming youre saying that superglue makes a stronger bond than testors tube glue, then i think we really are using different super glue! testors tube glue melts plastic together so assuming you dont use too much you have a perfect, strong seam. superglue on the other hand is only a surface bond. it is not very durable if there is to be stress on the parts being glued. remember that commercial with the elephant suspended from the ceiling with one drop of super glue? that worked because it was lifted straight up and no shear was applied to the joint. had that elephant twisted just a little bit s/he would have hit the floor. super glue has no shear strength at all. so overall testors tube glue properly applied makes for a much stronger bond than super glue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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