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Posted

to the TDR guys please email me off here at my new email address I still have to figur how to change it on here but you can reach me at

shawrides124@yahoo.com

thank you

Chas Cochran

Deco Rides 1/24th Scale

Posted

Rather than go with a 426 as originally planned, I'm going to build a 392 Hemi blower motor. I've mocked it up to make sure everything fits. Now I can build some engine and trans mounts and get it sitting in the chassis so I can finish the firewall and floor.

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Posted

Today I mocked up some mounts and have the engine and trans sitting where I want them. I also opened up the floor to accomodate the bellhousing and trans. Everythings roughed in but its getting the "look" that I'm after.

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Posted

Ya, I know, before y'all jump all over me...........I forgot to mock up the blower in the previous photos, so here it is.

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Now I know why it was running so rough............

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

The TDR chassis and IFS kit are good pieces but they do come with some minor issues. The IFS kit that I am useing is nicely designed and includes steering arms but it does not include a rack and pinion.

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Fortunatly, TDR does have an aftermarket rack and pinion kit. Its a bit bulky and not a "bolt on" for their IFS, but with some modification, it can be made to work.

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For this application, I'll be useing a rear steer version. This will require modifications to the chassis front cross member in order to mount the rack.

I have discussed my concerns about the IFS/R&P with Don from TDR. He assures me they are aware of the problem and that in time, it will be fixed. To their credit, these guys listen to customer comments.

Posted

The rack and pinion steering is now assembled and painted. I've made a bracket for the chassis so I can mount the R & P in a rear steer version but it won't be mounted until the chassis is painted.

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Posted

While building mounting brackets for the rack and pinion, I discovered a weakness in the front crossmember. I used some styrene strip and boxed in the top and bottom of the crossmember to give it additional strength. Now I can finish the steering rack brackets, shape everything and finish it with some smear.

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Posted

The front cross member is fully boxed. I think it looks much better and its stronger. Now I can fab some mounts for the rack and pinion.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

As mentioned previously, I've had to modify the front crossmember in order to fit the R&P. I still wasn't happy so now I've added an addition to the crossmember so that when attached, the R&P will be properly aligned.

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Now that its "right", I can finish shapeing the cross member and R&P mounting brackets with some smear and smooth and primer it.

Edited by arick
Posted

Thanks Dave!

The new front crossmember is now finished. All I have to do now is scratch some stylish mounting tabs for the rack. It looks a bit bulky in raw form, but once the rack and radiator are attached it won't look so ugly.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

With the front cross member finished, I fabbed some tabs to mount the rack and pinion. The tabs still need a bit of shape, but I can now move forward with other items.

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When dropping a violent blown Hemi backed by a Lenco into a 1:1 hot rod, its not a good idea to use motor mounts and a trans mount. Typically, the use of front and rear engine plates is the safe way to go so thats what I've done in the buildup of my 8th scale hot rod.

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The front plate will be bolted to the block and secured to the chassis via mounting brackets on the down tubes that extend from the roll cage to the front of the chassis. The rear plate is also bolted to the block and will be attached to the firewall and a additional hoop that will be attached to the cage and the chassis.

Please keep in mind that these photos show the mock up of the fabricated pieces and there's still some shapeing to be done in order to make them look right. Also, many thanks to Dave for helping out with photos of some 1:1 cars.

Edited by arick
Posted

Rick, just wanted to say, it's looking good. Great idea on the mounting plate instead of the mounts. It will dfinitely make a much stronger assembly.

CHEERZZZZ !!!!!!!!!! MADD FABRICATOR

  • 2 years later...

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