tutorial. getting rid of orange peel

[hellonwheelz3]

I was snooping around on the ole internet, and decided to google "how to get rid of orange peel". I seem to be a champ at GETTING the orange peel to show up, not avoiding it. Anyway, I found this tutorial on another website. Let me know what you think. Any criticisms or tips are helpful

[Nick Winter]

I was snooping around on the ole internet, and decided to google "how to get rid of orange peel". I seem to be a champ at GETTING the orange peel to show up, not avoiding it. Anyway, I found this tutorial on another website. Let me know what you think. Any criticisms or tips are helpful

the one on BMC thats quite helpful, too bad it's on such a crappy site.

[hellonwheelz3]

the one on BMC thats quite helpful, too bad it's on such a crappy site.

I guess I did forget to add the link to what I found, but yes it is on BMC. And I kinda have to agree with the latter part of your comment. Here's the link.

http://www.briansmodelcars.com/tutorials/tutorial/114

[Ddms]

I dunno about all those polishing pads. Maybe he needed to do a lot of sanding because he had such a coarse texture to begin with. Looks like the paint was sprayed too thick or from too far away.

I use either U-POL clear coat (similiar to Tamiya TS-13) or Tamiya-spray can lacquer. If the paint is sprayed right in the first place - close up and pretty thin - all that's needed is 2000 grit to flatten the texture. Then the Tamiya Coarse absolutely wipes out the micro scratch pattern left by the 2000 - no fancy polishing pads required.

I've compared Scratch-X with the Tamiya compounds, and to my eyes the Tamiya sequence (Coarse, Fine, Finish) produces a clearer, brighter gloss. With Scratch-X, I can always see a haze if the light is just right. Not with the Tamiya compounds, though.