ModelGuy(Mike) Posted January 11, 2010 Posted January 11, 2010 I've been building models for about 20 years and I have never herd of this black wash trick for grill's or anything to do with the matter. So If someone can help me out maybe it will be somthing I'll do to.
Harry P. Posted January 11, 2010 Posted January 11, 2010 Most model grilles look fake because the "open" areas of the grille aren't open... it's all chrome plated plastic, and looks very toy-like. A black wash is done by applying some thinned down black paint with a brush to the grille. Since the paint is thinned down, it will flow off the high spots and collect in the recesses. The black paint in the recesses makes the grille look like it really has openings in it, and makes for a much more realistic grille.
ModelGuy(Mike) Posted January 11, 2010 Author Posted January 11, 2010 Thanks Harry I think I'm going to give it a try on my next build.
jeffs396 Posted January 11, 2010 Posted January 11, 2010 Allan, there's also a water-soluable product called "the Detailer" that works well and if you make a mistake, just wash it off!
Eric Stone Posted January 11, 2010 Posted January 11, 2010 My dad always had fountain pens, so he'd always have a little bottle of ink and a syringe/needle to refill the pens. I've used that before on 1/24 Nascar wheels, very carefully squeezing out a drop of ink into each hole in the wheel.
Harry P. Posted January 11, 2010 Posted January 11, 2010 Right. I forgot to mention "The Detailer." And also, you could use black India ink. Same deal... if you don't like the result you can wash it off and try again. But the theory is the same, no matter if you use thinned black paint, ink, or "The Detailer." The idea is to flow the black into the recessed areas to simulate openings.
Marc @ MPC Motorsports Posted January 11, 2010 Posted January 11, 2010 Here's one I just did tonight on a 1962 Ford Falcon grille. Used Tamiya flat black acrylic thinned with Tamiya acrylic thinner.
MikeMc Posted January 11, 2010 Posted January 11, 2010 This is one of if not the easiest detailing trick to pull off. A good starting place for a wash is 9 to 1..9 parts thinner to 1 part paint. I shoot most colors in lacquer so my washes are tamiya acryllic thinned with tamiya thinner...seems to work better than isopropol or water. I have and use the "detailer" I like it for defroster vents only as it seems too "gooey/rubbery" for other areas. Heres a few...
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