What Kind Of Clear Gives The Best Shine?

[MikeMc]

The thing with Donn is that he pours way too much paint at one time on his models, that's why, if you look closely, his cars have a shiny look but most details are ommited, it's the reason I stopped using the Testors enamels. I like to keep all the small details on my models, I don't want them to look toyish with all that clear.

Are you sure your talking about Donn Yost????if so LOOK at his details.....

[Greg Cullinan]

I used Testors One Coat Wet Look Clear and was amazed.

[meaneyme]

It's not a matter of how many people have signed your guest list or how many people like your work, surely you have a big following and I respect that, this is merely an observation on my part.

I will give you an example using one of your models posted in this month's Scale Auto Magazine. By the way, congratulations! If you look at your GTO, I personally think that the body moldings around the wheels are way too thick, again, this is just an observation. I think that if you scribe them beforehand, it will be easier to follow them with the x-acto knife. I remember another modeler here in the forum posting a GTO recently and thought that he did a great job on his. Also, when you look at the picture taken from the rear, it's missing the chrome molding just at the end of the trunk and above the rear lights. I am also seeing that the paint is pretty thick in that area also, can't even see the line.

Another observation is the molding on the side of the '41 Willys, I thought it was a little too thick. Again, this is the main reason I stopped using enamels, I just find them way too thick and a lot of times it just looks like someone just dumped the body straight into the paint and hung it up to dry.

I have seen you website and found it to be very educational, you have some wonderful models and I congratulate you for being an important part of the hobby. Having said this, please don't misunderstand my point here.

[beefheart22]

Tamiya TS13 clear is my current favorite by a wide margin. Tamiya lacquers "shrink to fit", so you can put a lot of paint on and as it cures it rarely will fill in detail. It demands smooth coats from primer through color, and responds accordingly to wet sanding between coats and traditional methods of building up primer/color/clear in layers. The smoother the color, the smoother the clear. And Tamiya's own compounds, from coarse to fine to finish & then wax, work perfectly with their own paint. Often a light scuff with wet sandpaper is all you need to polish it out to an amazing shine with their compound (20-30 mins. is my average time to scuff/buff the final coat of clear; darker colors require more finesse & time). My usual method is to decant the clear, apply it w/airbrush in thin coats, working up to thicker/wetter coats. Often I follow this with one good wet coat from a fresh can. Works amazingly well, buffs amazingly well, no cracking, no yellowing. Wish it was cheaper & wish it cured slightly harder, but I'm quite satisfied with it. I shoot it over lacquers, either Tamiya/Testors or automotive colors. Don't shoot it over enamels!

That's what I like in Tamiya sprays in general. So easy to work with, you only have to be in the same room. If I could buy TS-13 in bulk I would. And it doesn't take more than a coat or two to get the result you're looking for. Outside of a very light wet sand, Bob is right on about the Tamiya compounds making quick work of it. Also works good for setting decals in small amounts.

Anything with the Tamiya name is probably going to be good. Try their wax as a finish after you polish and it just brings out an incredible luster. Just be ready to shell some coin. The bottle is small, but a little bit goes a long way.

[Hillbilly Deluxe]

Meaneyme you should post some up close shots of your builds for us to check out here!!!

I am curious to see your work,you talk a good game,but visibility lends credibility...

Your critique of that GTO is way off.

This forum is for helping and sharing, not just the worthless bashing of others.

Please don't misunderstand my point here.

Edited February 14, 2010 by Hillbilly Deluxe

[Longbow]

This model is shot with Boyd`s bright green enamel & the second is shot with Boyd`s clear.Oh yea I almost forgot its a mustang in case the paint to thick that is obscuring the view. Please don`t misunderstand my point here.

Gary Thomason

Edited February 15, 2010 by Longbow

[E St. Kruiser50]

I agree with Bob Downie and others here that "Best" is a relative term that each of us determine for ourselves.

We all have our own favorite "WEAPONS OF CHOICE" that we deam the best for each of our "Mini-Treasures" we build.

Time and experimentation with different paints and polishing products will settle the question for you.

It boils down to lot's of practice and samples to you find that "Majic Formula" that is the "BEST" for you, and suits your style.

My 2cts. - I don't use enamels or hobby paints much except Tamiya lacquers, and never their clear, as I have an automotive spray lacquer clear by Plastikote that so far, is compatible with all the auto paints and Tamiya, so sort of a no-brainer for me. Haven't stripped a paint job in nearly ten years.

It polishes to an amazing finish , and can be totally rubbed out in less than 24 hours after the final coat of paint.

By far the best clear though for me when I'm doing urethane, is HOK UC35, and it's reducer and catalyst.

When I do urethane paint jobs, you can spot it from all the rest on an event table, as the quality and finish make it a stand out - urethanes are amazing for depth, intensity, brightness and clarity.

[crazyjim]

Christmas time brought me a set of HOK pearls and I've been playing with them. I've been getting excellent results from Plas-t-kote classic clear that I decant and shoot with a Badger 200. I let the clear dry and go over the body with Novus #2, Novus #1, and then a coat of Model Car Wax. Bing. Bang. Done.